Rolla Boy

Definately change your oil... Magnatec is way to thin for your engine... As suggested, 10W40 or 20W50 would be the way to go... Try a decent Valvoline Mineral Oil, stay away from synthetics...

Sorry dude, kinda hard to explain... The alternator belt and Power Steering Belt have to be adjusted the same way... Loosen off the two mounting bolts off each part... Using a lever bar off something solid, lever the alternator and power steering pump away from the block assy so the belt gets tighter... Hold the lever bar in place while you tighten up the mounting bolts for each... With the air conditioning belt, loosen off the tensioner nut... Tighten the tensioner bolt until the belt is tight enough... Tighten up the nut and you're all done... Hope that makes it a bit easier for you :P ...

Sounds like they need to be adjusted or replaced if they're worn and cracked... Have a good look at them... If they have cracks on the inner V surfaces then replace them... If they're still ok, then you'll need to adjust them... To adjust them, loosen off the two mounting bolts off the alternator, power steering pump and the air con belt tensioner... Then you'll have to tighten the tensioner bolt and lever the pump and alternator and tighten the mounting bolts... Should be able to figure it out, just a pain as they're a bit tight to get to...

Should fit and should be worth around $100 - $150 depending on condition on synchros...

Putting all my stuff on ebay this week, so whatever doesn't sell I'll bring out I think...

I wonder if anyone would be looking for AE92 parts??? Or would this more so be older stuff???

Too busy working today, didn't get a chance to make it... Update with some details and photos :locked: :yes: :y: ...

Usually around 30 cars enter...

The washer hose runs through the inner guard with the wiring harness that runs through a grommet and into the drivers kick panel... From there it runs along the drivers side sill, up the rear wheel arch and into the roof lining area at the rear...

There is nothing above the pedals that could drip, nothing at all... Possibly check the rear washer jet hose that runs down the side of the car as that could have sprung a leak??? Other than that you'll have to strip the car and water leak test it till you find the problem area...

Rust under the windscreen will be letting the water in, running down the A pillar down to the kick panel and spilling out into the floor... Get a torch, pull back the carpet, remove the kick panel trim and A pillar trim and check for water marks... Also check that there are no missing plugs in the firewall that could be letting water through...

Sounds like a great idea, trying to get some cars to this :) :wink: :cool: ...

Toymods have a fair few downloads and one of them is the 4AGE manual... Might also be something AE92 Related...

Gearbox Synchro would be worn... Try changing the oil and using an additive with the new oil... Power Steering - Check for rack freeplay and steering column bushes... Pod filter off the throttle body = hot air intake = bad... Much better adding a panel filter to the stock airbox and running a cold air pipe from the front bar to the airbox... Extractors / Exhaust - shop around, find the right system at the right price... Lightened Flywheel - IMO not worth the time, effort or money when the rest of the engine is standard... Suspension - Get it checked out, replace worn bushes and other parts, lowered springs and good quality gas shocks will do a treat... Also, would be worthwile doing a major service to the car, get it running a lot better and smoother...

You'll need Gasket Goo for the cam cap and also the gaps between the rocker cover and the cam caps...

Cam seal - remove the two bolts on the end cap and using a phillips screwdriver down the holes where the bolts used to be, wriggle the cap loose and pull it off... Replace the seal remembering to lubricate the inner ring with clean engine oil before sliding it over the cam... When refitting the cap, make sure to use oil sealant goo on the outside of the marks on the cap otherwise it'll leak... Don't use too much or it will block the little oil grooves... Just a smear will be sufficient to make the seal... Refit the bolts and torque to the appropriate measurement... With the crank seal, remove the smaller timing gear, being careful not to damage the oil pump housing or the timing gear itself... Use a seal remover and pry the old seal out... Once again, lubricate the inner ring of the seal with clean engine oil and slide it over the crank and into place... Will be a tight fit so using the flat face end of a 3/8 extension, help the seal into place with little taps being careful not to damage the seal or anything else... Once you're done, refit the timing gear and put it all back together... I'm presuming you know what you're doing with the timing belt and water pump replacement??? If not, just ask :P ...

Go to Jobsons Tyres at Artarmon... See Joe... Tell him Ben from Chatswood Toyota sent you there and he'll look after you...

VMX80 in the gearbox - will solve any crunches and roughness... Decent 20W/50 in the engine - anything over 100,000 usually gets something thicker from me...

+1 to check the water temp sensor, most likely faulty or unplugged causing the computer not to know the engine is cold and not to inject enough fuel... Could also possibly need a throttle body and idle control valve cleanout as that only happened to mine last week...

Heading up tomorrow :) :no2: :) ...

I'll be there, last show for the Rolla before the rebuild... Out to have a great weekend this time :| :jamie: :yes: ...

Pull out the gearbox half of the cable... Turn the end that goes into the gearbox with your hand and you should see the part in the top turning... If that doesn't turn, then it's snapped... If it turns, then check the upper half of the cable the same way... If that fails, then check your speedo in the dash... But as stated above, it's usually the bottom half of the cable that breaks...

Got bored one day, pulled the springs out of one of the cars and took it cruisin, everyone said they were the lowest ones out there, I beg to differ now hahaha...

I've got a pair of the SX front brakes that I want to move... They come complete with the discs, calipers, brake pads and brake fluid lines... $50 for the pair plus postage to you... PM me if you're interested... Cheers :)

There's always a Toymods convoy heading up, usually meets at the westbound caltex servo on the M4 servo truck stop...