coln72

mines ground to a Wade 169 grind from memory (lost the actual specs :yes: ). They are on here somewhere did a qick search of the wade web site and found this.... Profile No Lobe Lift Timing Ad Duration Valve Valve Lobe Open Close @.050 Clr Lift Sep 169 Ex .268 75-36 218 .008 .395 109 In .269 41-70 218 .008 .394 Needs comp, twin carbs he above specs are from their cataloge under triumph, may not be exactly my cam (these are for a solid mines a hydrolic) did a search of another site and found my specs :D the specs are: Lift (at lobe) - 0.269" Ex opens - 75deg closes 36deg Inlet opens - 41deg closes 70deg so its the same as above, gives a good power range. Will rev but wont bog down low.

......and don't let anyone talk you into changing to solid lifters, it isn't necessary.

All of the above seems a hell of a lot of work when my 5k running a standard bottom end will (and has for a number of years) to 8000rpm, usually averaging 7000rpm. Easiest way is to go to a decent engine machinist eg. M & W in Ballarat, and ask them.

Give that one a 7.5. Needs to be cropped more to get rid of the bush in the foreground. Here is a photo taken by a fellow BLCC member a couple of years ago at the Challenge of Clubs. It was entered in a schools photo competition where it came second

After winning a defensive driving course at the local indoor karts I thought I was pretty hot behind the wheel. Let me tell you it opened my eyes as to how much I didn't know (oh shit another dead cone :D ). YES defensive driving courses should be mandatory!!!!!!! Overseas studies have shown that with a proper program, fatalities will reduce. I'd go one further and make it mandatory to be involved with a car club and get to know how a car handles before you get your P's

try googling blue streak, its a hpv team that blow moulds their own PET. sorta remember that yoy need to have a temp of 130C to do it with PET so you can use a home bbq (modified)

NOOOOOOOoooooooooooo.......Stick with a '20 If not then an early '35 would be my choice. Welcome to the club mate.

Ive seen people blow moulding PET (stuffed if I know its full name) or sheets of acrilic? to make canopies for human powered vehicles. I think at school they use HIP to blow mould bodies for model cars in one of the classes. Think PET goes brittle with heat????????

any one with a hydrolic press. At least thats how we done mine........

In a word STRIPPED. No dash pad, glovebox, vents, ducts, heater, carpet, back seat, sun visors, mirror......... Door trims are aluminium as is everything on the dash apart from the guage cluster, which is a genuine tacho dash (its a KE20 :P) front seats are stratos recliners (old race seats), it has a 4 point harness for me, a shift light tacho and a few extra switches for thigs like fuel pump, starter etc. If you havnt guessed it isn't a road car :hmm:

ditto to the above but painted white. Paint them all the same silver n(the original would have faded heaps or get a decent painter to colour match the original stuff.

Nah don't do it......send it to me instead ;) Not quite HOK's Passion Purple (my fav colour at the moment) but would still look shit hot.

had a 5K rattle like that which everyone swore that it was a cracked piston. It even diappeared when you removed the plug lead on that cylinder. So we stripped it down, found nothing other than a cracked inlet manifold runner. Hell an engine reconditioner said he would reuse the same pistons which we didnt. Seemed that the pressure variations were causing the manifold to make the noise.

don't go so low with the springs - no probs :) Seriously, I ran GT Monero strut inserts for years in my KE35 without any hassles with 1 1/2 coils cut off the stock springs. Had to zip tie the springs in place to stop them falling out.

I will not be able to make this (stupid seized brakes :hmm: ) but it seems like a good day. The next Winton Fun Day is scheduled for Sunday January 28th 2007. The usual format applies: Cost: Is $25 per driver and $25 per passenger Programme: Normally be there by 8.00 for scrutineering, but this can take some time. Drivers Briefing at around 9.00 - 9.30 Driver only on track for 30 minutes sighting laps, then Driver with passenger for 30 minutes, then Driver only on track for 30 minutes, then Driver with passenger for 30 minutes, then Driver only on track for 30 minutes, and so on all day until about 4.30 Requirements: Bring your car, an Australian Standard Approved helmet, the helmet can be either open or closed face, fire proof clothes that cover you from neck to ankle to wrist (cotton or wool clothes are good). Runners are not the preferred footwear, Blundstones boots (or similar) or any leather type shoe is preferable Make sure your car has no oil/coolant leaks, fitted seat belts, battery is secure, wheels nuts are tights, no loose items in the car or boot, if possible tow bar should be removed and no bull bars. The Car does not have to be registered, but has to road/race worthy. There are normally no checks done of lights except for brake lights except if it is an overcast, rainy day, then there may be checks for lights as well as wipers. Tyres have to have no metal showing through, so it doesn't matter if they are a little bald (unless it rains for your safety though) And very importantly, bring a smart, alert attitude, coz there is some very fast cars out there, whilst it is not a race meeting, some people bring race cars and the onus is on them to behave appropriately around first timers. Food and drinks are available through a canteen

If you feel like a drive to Ballarat, Id talk to Phil at PA Govan Custom Paints. Top quality work. He is always busy and it is all word of mouth stuff. He has done all my Corolla's. If you ask nicely he will even air brush stuff for you. Just don't expect it to be done for a couple of hundred bucks. phone 53396163

I'm a dodgy bastard so I'm gonna suggest going to Bunnings, buying a grinder and a can of whatever colour the brand of your choice uses and make your own :hmm: Even better, grab a bucket, go to a mate with an oxy, fill bucket with water, place spring in bucket and cut. Old man swears it works :ninja:

If the missus lets me, ill see you all up there as i am visiting the inlaws in Canberra for a couple of weeks.

OMG... I want that kit!!!!!!!!!

Just in time for Chrissie to.

congrats mate. hope you have had plenty of sleep as you wont be getting any for a long time...........:P

Name: Colin Car: KE20 Motor & Driveline: 5k with cam & sprinter carbs, locked diff Suspension & Brakes: ke35 discs converted to early stud pattern. Modded crossmember for camber, cut springs Wheels & Tyres: RX7 alloys Interior: stripped, just front seats Body: ordinary Other:been used as a club car for a long time

oops stuffed up sorry details below

Consider it to be a shit result as we should have been in the top 5 outright. We were about 50 laps down on last years effort.

Well it has been run and won, but not by us. A shit load of pissy little issues killed all chances of a decent result. Really pissed off as nothing showed up during testing, training or qualifying. List of problems; front wheels kept loosening and falling off even when using bearing retainer in the threads - bout 5 hours to finally fix it :) Been using the same design without problems for three years.......f@$king teflon in the wheel bearings leaked out onto the threads absolultly destroyed chain rollers - again the same design has been used for ever..... bent brake disc 'cause above bearing retainer glued wheel bearing to axel which pulled wheel brake assembly out while disc was still in caliper - shit destroyed nearly every spoke in one side of wheel :jamie: two rollovers caused by us deciding not to take out other dimwits in carts that should have been well off the racing line as they were SLOW!!!!!! Big chunk out of a brand new tyre caused by it jamming when front axel came out After all of this we finished 12th outright (90 something entries) and 8th in our class, covering 545 laps (46 off our team record from last year) which is around 700kms