coln72

If you want more power up high go for 4-1's 4-2-1's are good for midrange. That said I've only ran second hand 4-1's.

As of a couple of years ago he still had it. Contact the TCCA (http://www.tccav.org.au) and see if he still has it.

Never had any probs with the factory air cleaners. Running aftermarket ones at the moment from REPCO to suit Stomberg(?) carbies (modified a pair of old Holden aircleaner housings to suit the Toyota carbs as my twins didnt come with the aircleaner housing) and they are crap.

I ran my 5k with a Wade 169 cam (specs are on here if you do a search) and it was fine on a standard carb but it is SO much better with twins :P

I'd hire a crane or a block and tackle. By the time you paid for the beer your mates drank you could have paid for the crane :hammer:

You like the feel of fur between your clenched cheeks......... :hammer:

From what I know of Johnny he could teach you young whippersnappers a thing or two about Corollas. If his website is still active you should check it out. web page Hope I havnt stuck my neck out John by doing this

Probably straighten is a better word. We disassembled the leaf pack, inserted main leaf into press, flattened it by about 2" and rebuilt leaf pack. Had mine tied in at the top with a few zippies, could do both though and use something stronger. don't forget to paint your chopped springs in whatever brands color eg. pedders red as it makes it a lot harder to pick they have been chopped :hammer: Here is a crap pic of the beast showing how it sat.

A knackered strut will cause it to bounce like a pogo stick

Should do it properly, but I ran for years on cut springs without a prob. after I sold it, it was roadworthied with them twice!!!! Hell I had them help in with zip ties to stop them dropping out :jamie: Ran GT Gas Monroes (?) of the standard length. If you have access to a hydrolic press, reset the rears yourself. Did it to mine, lowered the main leaf by 2" out of the car. Dropped about 3" when back in the car, just off the bump stops (13" tyres were inside the rear guards ). Again standard length GT Gas Monroes were used with no probs after I found that a rear shock mount was bent and breaking off the bottom of a shock. Could also use Commodore wagon (VK ish) or HK/T/G Monaro rear shocks as they may be a bees shorter.

Years ago I was cruising along in Melbourne when some bogans in a Torana entered from a side street, crossed 3 lanes to cut in front of me, causing me to brake hard and proceeded to travel 20kmh under the limit in the fast lane. Flashed high beam at them. I could tell they were up to something as the passengers kept looking at me. Sure enough they slammed on the brakes. Fair enough braked and went to go around them. This is when they tried to cut me off by crossing into the next lane. This PISSED me off so I gave them the bird and kept going. Check mirrors and they are sitting about 2" from my rear bumper. This goes on until next set of lights which changed red. Hell I had to stop for a red didn't I :cool: This is when bogan number 1 jumped out and wnated to fight me! with bogan number 2 waiting to jump me from behind :jamie: I declined and just smiled at them. Bogan 1 then tried to ram his fist through my window. Think someone may have called the cops as they then pissed off.

Want a cheap rebuild - barter. Old man swapped a 4.5 diff we were not going to use for a set of over size pistons, Hastings rings, and rods for a 4K. I got my I on a 4K at work that has never been fired in its life.......

wouldn't think so

2 BIG screwdrivers are all you need to ease the pulley off.

That is not the nicest image I'm ever going to have - Rob in his Y fronts :hmm: searches for red hot poker to jab in eyes

I tend to drive alot at night between towns so most of my cars are fitted with more powerful globes at least, as well as driving lights. Too many close calls with skippy etc to feel safe with standard lights, especially now that I have the baby (soon to be two) on board. I do try to get off high beam though as soon as I see another car often before they would be affected. And if the other pricks don't get off high beam - 4 x 100watt globes sorta change their minds :dance:

just machine a bees off the end of the KE38 axels and they will slot into a KE20 diff housing. Two ways of changing the front stud pattern to match swap the whole brake assembly from the 38 onto the 20, using the inner bearing from the 20 and thee outer from the 38 from memory or maybe keep your original discs and bolt on the 38 hub.

Put nut in vice, grap a big soft face hammer and bet the shit out of the stub axel.

Had a KE35 that would break the bottom off a shock after 6 months so maybe a busted shock??????

I'm a teacher and I would love to do something like this!!!!!!!!!!!! Would love some contact details of poeple involved.

Hell I told the RACV that I had a twin carbed 5K and it wasnt a problem. They just asked me if it went faster and I said "dunno" :) Even had to correct VICRoads as thay stuffed up the engine number, the tosser didnt want to look clase as he might get dirty.

Easy way would be to toss the 4K (don't like them) and get a 5K (1.5L) or 7K (1.8L) and bolt in. All accessories will bolt up and you can make it look stock if you want to. Handy for insurance and rego purposes :jealous: Or go the 4age route if you like as there is heaps of info out there on the swap.

Who cares, its not a real sport to us south of the border anyway :jealous:

Take old ones in and find some that are the same - probably some holden or ford ones fit.

think it depended on the engine type 3k-h's had them. An aisan of a 5k might be a go as the secondary is bigger than a 3k.