Ben-89

Love those chasers, try getting a set of centre caps for them off a S1 GX Bluebird :y: For that real complete look. Those rims were originally spares fitted to the TI models, so supplement the 15" alloys. But heres a few pics of the caps I'm referring to, a little filling (to get rid of the Datsun)branding, sanding and painting and its done.

It could be a 5 speed gearbox from a ke55 liftback which was mated to a 3k, both were standard kit.

The ae71s do have that extra grunt on tap if you need it :y: I have been in a mates ae71 with a 4ac, t50 and 4.11 diff and with the 4.11s the revs sit on roughly 3,800 or a tad more. Thats going at 100 as well, my previous 4ac, t50 and 3.89 was sitting on 3,000 or a tad more at 100km so it really sipped the juice. Maybe you could stick with the 3.89 Borgie and keep for events the T series or possibly hunt down some disc brakes and lsd centre while its off the car:y:

True auto ae71s have the 4.11 diffs Made by Borg Warner, this can be identified by the backing plate which can be removed from the rear of the housing. Manuals have the 3.89s. Having done the auto-man conversion Ill tell you the 3.89 diffs arent too bad on take offs while you giving good cruising ability thanks to its low final drive. I wouldnt bother with putting the ke70 diff unless you want really great take off and poorer top speed. Just to simplify.. AE71 AUTO 4.11 AE71 MANUAL 3.89 KE70 AUTO 4.31 KE70 MANUAL 4.11 Whilst on the topic, if you have an early flat front ke built before 1983 in SE trim it will most likely have an S series (Jap) diff which unbolts from the front as opposed to the rear on the Borg Warner.. K40/50 have a different spline shaft compare to the T50, so its probably easier to use an AE71 tailshaft if you have access to a cheap one.

Love the freshness of this car :) If you have no luck sourcing a good condition front seat try looking for a rear seat (the squab)its the part your back is up against and buy it. Reason being.... Less likely to have wear from entry and exiting unlike the fronts, while you'll wash the seat but it will most likely be cleaner to work with as the likelyhood of staining and marking is almost nill compare to the cushions in these cars which seem to have large stains. Tacho dash simply plug in and your on your way, beats anything else if you want a clean look. There is one on ebay at the moment.

Yes cars in that condition and age really amaze me. But thats taking it too far, they need to be driven too!

Nice ke70 Liam, look like its getting some positive attention. The dark colour suits this quite well and the idea of removing the front indicators off the guards really streamlines the car too. Keep up the good work :y:

The series 1 twincams just looked better than the series 2's. Maybe this was on ebay a while back and the bloke who sold it to you purchased it from ebay. Because that area around the fuel filler looks familiar. Was good meeting you and your dad yesterday :) I had the white ke70 :y:

Some photos, Drivers side.. Passenger side.. Still a bit more to do :P

Thanks Matt, No matter how clean it is it can always be cleaner :blush: Started checking a few things which are normally looked at upon rwc.... The windscreen is the same one from 82, pilkington glass emblem as it matches all the correspiding glass. It dosent have the blue tint line on the top its just plain right through. Two or three stone chips but out of main view but it looks acceptable though. Next was the front brake pads which have 70+% pad left, the rear shoes are atleast 1000kms old and the wheel cylinders are probably 2,000 or so.. and the front brake hoses while quite dirty were pretty good after a good clean. The front rubber bushes were cracked so they'll go eventually. To remove all the years of grime off the lines and front struts some brake cleaner was in order, it cut through all the build up and the struts are like new. Black, shiny, still the Toyota units and the red and yellow tick marks are still on there where the bolts were done up :y: Still not satisified with the wheels off I gave the inner guard liners a good blacking over along with the mudflaps (noting worse than seeing a clean car but its grubby and stained arches :n: ) So with some hot water, car wash soap, tooth brush, larger brush, patience and the other stuff both arches were scrubbed up all bubbly and rinsed to reveal all the white paint underneath in suprisingly good condition, just little things like that really lift the car. After having a car for so long you tend to rediscover quirky things about it such as through cleaning it to this extent!

In regards to that clock what you may need to do is get a wiring loom off an RV or Ultima Seca and then simply connect it to the existing wiring down in the console area?. When I had my ae71 I installed the original tape deck but needed the wiring loom also. With a little fiddling around everything worked out fine as it was plug and play so I can't imagine any major issues for this, It will be a process of waiting for the loom to come up at the wreckers I think.

Sunvisor as in the one which goes above the windscreen, or the one on the drivers door? Took me a while to find both but they're pretty cool :y:

A few possiblilites to consider.. 1, Maybe leaking rear quarter vent seals (in the c pillars). Which runs down the inside on the rear 1/4s down into the wells. 2, Rear boot seal (rubber) dried or perished and not adhering to the metal lip properly allowing water to run underneath it. 3, Perished tail light gaskets, usually there will be staining down the rear beaver panel where it may pool on theboot floor and run off into the rear 1/4s. Had the same issue with the old ae71, Just have plenty of old towels on hand if it rains when you drive just so it can soak up the water before it settles at the bottom. And once its not driven pull them out and air them. Good luck :y:

Your the second person who has encountered the brittle boot garnish. You could weld up the holes and paint the lid, or possibly source an early model (ke35) bootlid who no garnish at all.

Those plastics will turn up, ninjastars look good when polished up I must say. Same thing with the centre caps they do come from time to time. Depending how you go there are two possibilities for those bits. 1, Ebay member corollamania who has plenty of parts for ae92s 2, Rollaclub member Corollaparts69, I got my rear louvre off him, so he may be able to assist.

Hi Glen, The Hatches were always a more agressive style over the seca to good work on getting a hatch! The "SR" stood for Super Responsive in regards to the engines performance. The sticker M/T on the rocker cover means manual transmission. Both of these stickers are also on the carby'd models too :y:

Good to see a thread pop up on this, I havent seen many XX ones like this so I 'd be a little inclined to keep it on the straight and narrow. I.e redo the stripes after a repaint etc. Good to hear you've plated all the rust too :y: but does the surrounding body really warrant a repaint though? It does look quite clean and with a simple blend in around the repairs and into the body along with good cut/polish/detail I'm sure it'd come out tops without costing too much time and money. With the XX alloys, the caps brake because the self tapper screws seize/break or were replaced with an overside headed screw causing the old plastic to break. Its not something you see everyday and is nice the way it is, but do what makes you happy :)

Any progress is good progress, now thats a snug fit on the gearboot! Looks grouse :wink: Whats next on the list for it?

Thats more like it! Just as well the old screen was buggered so you could pull it out and clean under it. And that seal finishes it off nicely, top work :y: Have you come across the CS-X handle plasics?

Excellent work, its a different car! If you want those ash tray look a like grab handles keep an eye out for the Series 1 csx trim level. I'll suggest looking at the Seca as they appear to be more common on that trim level compare to the hatchbacks :y: .

No worries mate, those decals are the originals. A small history lesson, at the lauch of the ae82, the sedan and seca were launched in May 85' by september the Hatch was the last. While the Hatch and Seca both had a lifting tail gate and folding rear seats, they puerly named it Hatch just to differentiate. From what I can gather though, the Hatch emphasis was on the early release cars as mine was built in Oct 85. Since 2004 I have only seen 3 or 4 with that livery.

Nice pick up on the side skitrs :y: That'll fill the area nicely which means one sill panel dosent need the same as the other :wink: Joking! If only I still had the front fibreglass spoiler which got broken :n: If you were to go a front spoiler, which style would you go for? Toyota had a foam type unit which was very squarish in its profile, or there was an aftermarket option which looked a little smoother and pleasing. Edit: Dug these from the archives. The old rocket.

Now that brown one is crazy :o In reference to the "Y" plate is that the original license plate that was on the car from new? Or is a designation plate for senior owners? Nothing like an old car with the original plates from new :y: Yes mine has the rear venetian but no plastic on the door trims. But its garaged and parked on carpet. Got any engine bay photos of the pair? Very interested to see :) Greetings from its Australian cousin :) Which has 84k miles!

Thats in really good condition, suprisingly for a car exposed to salted roads and cold climates it has little rust compare to the ones here in Australia. Best thing is to jump on it straight away and prevent it from spreading. If theres something I really like its originality, and this has a whole lot of it :):y: I have an original low km ke70 also. Keep up the good work mate!

What a waste, they'd rather let it rot there than sell it while it still salvagable :n: .