corolla_nut

that is NOT a falcon weber carburettor. that appears to be a DGV off an escort. Falcon weber is a ADM and has a diamond shape top for the air filter to bolt on to, and is much larger internally. should be written on the bottom of the carburettor somewhere, its probably going to say 32/36 DGV on it. Robert.

run at least 10.5:1 static compression.... and you NEED a regraphed electronic distributor as well. I'd reccommend a lightened flywheel and getting everything balanced. Robert.

as I said, its not always a problem. the borate esters which are in SOME dot 4 fluids eat the seals of the master cylinder out. not all dot 4 fluids have the borate esters present. the us dept of transport (dot) specification only stipulates the boiling point of the bluid, not HOW they make it comply with that boiling point. They can make dot 4 fluids with or without the borate esters and they are still labelled the same. castrol response dot 4 and valvoline dot 4 (green fluid) seem to be quite ok in lots of toyota's i've seen. and we run castrol response dot 4 in the ke55 and have done for years with no dramas at all. Robert.

I'm jealous, I drool over t18's.... We have a small collection of ke corollas and probably too small of a budget for most of the cool stuff you read about on the internet. Without having much experience, so don't put as much weight on my opinion as other guys who know more, I'd go with the 3t block, late 2tg head, and reprofiled camshafts, side draught carburettors and extractors.... I'm drooling again all over the keyboard... Robert.

it won't fail that dramatically that there will be a serious accident, the pedal will become rather squishy after a period of time and eventually deteriorate to the point where there won't be much braking being done. but it will vary from car to car so don't quote me on that... I have seen a lot of toyotas running dot 4 fluid without problems, but it is something you should be aware of before you go and try it out. Its not a huge drama to put the dot 3 in it, and blue brake fluid looks cool anyway :jamie: Robert.

hang on hang on wooah there wait a minute. dot 3 and dot 4 are a US department of transport specified standard of brake fluid relating to the boiling point only. how they do this is up to the brake fluid manufacturer. dot 4 fluid is basically a dot 3 fluid with the addition of borate esters (i think?) which increases the boiling point. However it does not HAVE to have borate esters added. toyota always specifies dot 3 fluid only. I THINK the borate esters were the problem, they eat the seals in the braking system on the toyotas. You can buy PBR or valvoline brake fluid in a dot 3 flavour, it is blue in colour. However, I'm quite sure castrol response and valvoline dot 4 fluid (green in colour) both do not have borate esters added and thus do not cause problems in toyotas. I've seen both fluids added to toyotas without problems. To make things tricky, I've also seen problems in late model toyotas that APPARENTLY were brake fluid related (grj120r prado's and possibly a mcv20r camry). I'm not entirely convinced. I have a ke55 which had a brand new master cylinder and wheel cylinders fitted and happily runs castrol response dot 4 fluid, has done for years without problems. I also have an ae93 seca in the family running castrol response. I've seen valvoline dot 4 fluid in many many toyotas without dramas. Just to be anally retentive, we actually use toyota genuine brake fluid in all late model toyota's at work to eliminate this possibility. Too expensive IMHO but we all do what the boss tells us to do. dot 5 I think is the completely different fluid that you shouldn't use in a dot 3 or 4 system. If I were you, I'd run the blue dot 3 fluid just to be on the safe side :jamie: I had an rt142 corona that I always had the blue fluid in it, I was pretty happy with it. But its up to you. Robert.

have to do it sometime before next weekend. she's got a khanacross on the sunday. I'm really wanting to sort the tramp out before we do it, I want to see what the lightened flywheel does for her times... I can only use the hoists outside of work hours :jamie: and I have very very limited concrete/jacks here. I'm headed to dubbo this afternoon, will be back tomorrow maybe in the afternoon.... this limits me somewhat :bash: Robert.

the ports on the 3k-b manifold are larger than stock, I'm planning on matching the ports carefully when I finally build my grumpy 4k to go in the ke11. I'm going to be using the original carburettors on my setup. I'd imagine that the 4k/5k carburettors would flow more air but you may need to jet them differently... linkages SHOULD (nothing in life is easy) be ok to use on other carburettors.... but I'm not quite sure on that so... good luck tuning your engine if you are driving it on the street with a 286 degree cam... although twin carburettors would be the way to do it. we have a 276 degree cam (i think) and its pretty bloody lopey at idle... she loves it though :jamie: Robert.

check there is power going to the idle solenoid, the "engine" fuse could be blown. take the fuel line off the carburettor and make sure that plenty of fuel comes out when you crank the engine. you need three things and three things ONLY to make your car engine run: Air/Fuel mix, compression, and spark. By the sound of things you have spark and compression, so therefore it must be a fuel delivery problem. Robert.

No Rob's not in the doghouse lol! But i am quite pissed about the stickers. I've decided I'm going to paint a white square on each back door and then stencil the numbers on before the next khanacross- they can't take them that way... You are NOT touching the exhaust either ;) Next on the cards are adjustable strut tops, different muffler, redo numbers and play around with the leaves to try and stop the horrible tramping :yes: And sometime soon we'll hopefully be getting a less cancerous shell!

4 barrel always seems hilarious to me on a 4 cylinder.... I just keep thinking of funnels..... really, four barrels tapering into a tiny manifold........ two barrel downdraught or side draught carbies make more sense... Robert.

awesome car, awesome driving! :jamie:

the gas mixing with the air/dust seems to have moistened the dust and caused it to stick in the converter with a very very minimal amount making it through (hardly any at all) to the carburettor throats. obviously air filter should be filtering air because this clogged the converter up badly. Robert.

doesn't appear to be water getting in engine oil, seems to be combustion/exhaust getting in cooling system pressurising it and making it lose its water. do you think oil may be escaping through the head gasket to the combustion chamber? honestly that hadn't occured to me. the trouble with cars is that there is rarely just one cause of a problem, its always a mixup of two or more different problems to produce odd symptoms. that being the case, i think i will leave the engine in the vehicle, do the head gasket, remove and clean the radiator, and kit the carburettor (the float bowl is loose on the throttle butterflys.... very interesting) and pop it all back together with a ryco z68 and 15w40 magnatec and see how it all goes. providing of course i don't find problems with the bores when the head is off. there doesn't seem to be bearing noises which is promising at least :dance: Robert.

just to let you all know the oil filter didn't fix it... not quite sure what to do at this stage. Unsure if it's worth ripping the engine out, ripping the sump off and checking the bearings?

oil pressure was low enough to have lifters rattling, timing chain rattling, and oil pressure light on for maybe 5 seconds when dead cold. light would stay on for a few seconds when starting during the day, much like a holden :lolcry: seems much better with a ryco z68 but the real test will be tomorrow morning when it's dead cold.... is a z418 the same thread as a z68? have never looked inside a filter to compare, never had the time to slice one open. Robert. (apparently signed in as kylie)

Saw a commodore the other day with IZBLWN numberplate Also saw a commodore ute with EWE-00T as the plate - I thought it was awesome :P There was also a commodore a few weeks back that had LAY-80I as the plate with a P-plate tacked on before it (P LAYBOI). Not sure if it was intentional or not but it was pretty cool.

the fiesta, to quote top gear magazine, is like a jack russell hell bent on taking your leg off.... nothing beats ari!!! nobody will ever come close to that again! Robert.

Ok, the fender indicators that I have are the bulge type ones. I'm sure one has been replaced as it looks somewhat different to the other and appears to be newer. And here's the one I managed to mangle while fighting with an old rusted out bulb.. Robert (rob83ke70) the lucky duck has the other sort on his ke11 ^^^so jealous! There is a set of hubcaps on eBay which is exactly what I'm after, unfortunately I'm not sure If I'm willing to pay $85 for them ;) edit: too bad it appears someone beat me to it and bought them! ;) So, very slow progress, the rh taillight is in with nice new spring washers and nuts. I sorted all the bolts/nuts/screws/washers out yesterday into a caddy by style and size to make things easier for me. I would do more today but I'm supposed to be going to Narromine and I really should be getting ready. The next thing on the agenda is more than likely going to be the front apron and the valance, and cleaning, polishing and fitting both bumpers. Another thing I'm really happy with is that the dash has two quite minor cracks which should be easily fixed - YAY!!! But I also need to figure out what I'm doing with the hole where that ugly stereo is, I need to clean up and/or respray the glovebox lid too. My ke10 doesn't have a cigarette lighter - there's just a blanking off plate where there should be one, so I'm just assuming that cigarette lighters in 60's model corollas were a factory option and I should be able to find one around somewhere?

Love under the bonnet - very schmick - twin carbs are awesome!! A quick glance at the last pic - I thought you had the carbs sitting on top of the bonnet and I had no idea what you were going on about, but then I had a really good look... It looks wicked!! I don't think I've seen any other early rollies with components sticking out of the bonnet (apart from the ones with huge spastic engines in them!) very unique - love it

OR do what harley davidson owners do - high tensile steel chain with a kevlar cover over the chain and special D-shackles dynabolted to the concrete. Then chain your rollie to the concrete. If you have a sense of humour see if you can make what appears to be a pushbike lock that appears to be locked with it! ;)

you could call a freight company up and ask for a quote... unfortunately alot of them only like dealing with business accounts and business addresses ;) It's still worth a go though!

Open up the dizy cap and have a look. Pic below is of one... If you were going down that path it would be easier and just as effective to take the coil to distributor ignition lead off - that's what we used to do before we installed a kill switch...

I can't quite remember exactly what they look like off the top of my head... I'll have a little looksie tomorrow when I'm a little more so in the land of the living - bad night at work and late finish does that to you. Anyway, the pic below is pretty similar to what they look like - I take it these are the later model bulgier ones? I got the pic off ebay and am not entirely sure as the parts never quite look the same - I bought a set of ke30 numberplate lights off eBay a little while ago and you can definitely notice the difference. I know one of these fender indicators was replaced recently as I opened it up and it was very clean surrounding the bulb and the back of it was also clean as compared to the other which was very rusty and very dirty. my ke10's a 69 model - so that's sort of a middle of the range one isn't it? I think I'm going to have to try and resurrect the fender indicator that I have or buy the ones of eBay and use them both as it would look odd having two different styled ones. If I'm keeping them I'm going to have to fix my foobar (I have a shortfuse and kind of mashed the bulb metal case in there - don't ask, I'll just take a photo tomorrow... ) Thanks for your help guys! I'm going to bed!!

Go to a local wheel alignment shop - they should be able to help you out no worries at all!