kiahn

i don't know much about 3T's but 4age are an absolutely awesome motor, 4age's are revvy, light and there are heaps of brands to choose parts from. IMO go the 4agte, build it right and treat it nice and it'll last ages

goodluck with it mate :wink:

they are the same thing yes test the throw out bearing first by using the screwdriver stethoscope method and if its not that then drain the fluid and check for metallic flakes, replace fluid (replacing GB fluid is normally a good thing to do anyway) if its still noisy then you may need to get the other bearings checked did you use your old throw out bearing or did you get one with the GB?? if your old one worked fine try putting it on the new GB and if it stops the noise then problem solved, if not try elsewhere EDIT: forgot to mention that the whirring noise is usually the throw out bearing

what sort of noise? is it a clicking, crunching or a whirring. have you replaced the GB fluid? if not when you drain the fluid look in the old fluid for metallic particles (looks sparkly)

the wont be a problem on your bigport, but if you upgrade the engine to a degree where you would usually weld up the TVIS open then then would be too small, so unless your going to rev its tits off all the time then the BT ones might be overkill

once it starts is it getting the right amount of fuel?? is it electric fuel pump or mechanical?? if its electric check if its working properly thats only thing i can think of atm

what will the engine be used for? does it need top end or mid range power?? if you go black top ITB you wil have a better top end due to free flow but the low end will disappear (like like you take the TVIS off a stock bigport) the ST ITB will speed up the air flow much like the TVIS system if you put in some decent size cams and extractors then id say go for black top ITB if your keeping the engine mainly stock the Silver top ITB's will be great several years of highschool physics :wink: correct me if I'm wrong

i havnt tested it yet, but the piston ring gap was borderline needing to bore it so I'm thinking the compression wouldnt be brilliant i rebuilt the head myself and havmt skimmed it either so wouldnt be anything over stock compression either this weekend when i make the mission to get it all finished and get my K motor out i will post u pics and try to make a "how to swap K-A motors" don't know if FAQ would be interested in adding it to their records

oh ok, well ive got a 4age conversion ready to go in so i probably wont rebuild the 4k. ill just sell the 4k as is with k40 and Tail shaft i was hoping it was something small so i could still drive it round for a few days :) thanks for the help, i might still rebuild it and put it in a ke20 (my dream car)

not the cams yet but once the engine is together and working i will put 272's in what oil should i run in a freshly rebuilt 4age with pre lapped piston rings?? I'm thinking a 15W40 premium mineral oil mainly because i have 50L in my shed for the RX8 UPDATE: almost finished just need to put head on block and the cams in head. next week it will be finished and in the school holz in my car and running. parts still to buy: clutch master clutch line engine oil head rebuilt with valves lapped and completely cleaned

whats BHG?? not up to date with all these short-words

mother of an energy drink for a mother of a build sick project though. id love to see this on youtube when its complete

took off the radiator cap and there was froth in the top after a week of sitting in my driveway and also the coolant has gone almost milky

ok, i was just going off what i read in all the links on the first google results page. well the link i gave is the weber troubleshooting guide, the reason i was pushing for a retune was that checking the float level ruins a gasket. anyway goodluck

the websites i was reading bout this is made by weber and they said it is RARELY the float that causes problem but rather the tuning of the carby or the wrong jets being installed. ive heard that webers need constant tuning/recalibrating to keep them running perfectly, if he hasnt touched it in ages then id be checking that before ripping it apart.

sorry edited: i seperated them into mixture screw and idle screw, anyway try a retune and it might fix it, if that doesnt work then try getting the right jets for it. if all else fails go through here http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles...ing%20Guide.pdf or try getting a pdf manual on how to tune the carby properly heres what you need from the guide:

have you attempted to adjust the idle mixture screw?? had exact same problem with my 4k, turns out the mixture screw was just screwed in all the way and the idle was turned way up. if its not that it could be the jets are too big. what engine did the webber come off??

YAY rings arrived today, had to re-hone the cylinders because i missed a tiny little scratch in the NO.3 cylinder only problem was my honing tool was mangled so i took it back to super cheap and they gave me brand newy this weekend i hope to have the motor back together and will try post up pics of the water system I'm trying to perfect using all FWD parts ive painted my cam covers black with same paint as the extractors, will have pics by sunday night, price checklist of conversion so far: motor : $300 honing tool : $60 crossmember : FREE ECU and ae71 harness : $80 full gasket set : $400 spare motor : FREE T50 with tailshaft $200 extractors W/exhaust : $100 alternator and other parts : $50 external thermostat : FREE rear water outlet : FREE new rings from EBAY : $100 NEW platinum spark plugs : present from dad :y: spigot bearing : $7.82 starter motor : $10 all up $1310

hey if you've read the faq but still can't decide: ive got a stock 4K-s with a 2 inch press bent system so the min is around 1.8" it is pretty good if you put a pod filter on the way i did(cheap yet effective), it gives a tad more power and allows for a bit of modification without being over kill for a stocko oh and if your planning on lowering your car go over diff so as to not scrape on every speedbump hope that helps

my friend has ae86 and his front strut brace(the one that goes across the top mounts for shockies) says ae86 &ke70 and i think his rear 6 oint does too if you want def answer ask kin at infinite auto sports. hes the guy i ask bout heaps of things http://www.infiniteautosports.com.au/ EDIT: the brand is ultra racing but looks same as whiteline

sweet that sounds pretty easy to fix, lol ill hold my head far away when i turn it over tho:P does anyone think i should rebuild my 4k then sell it or just sell it as is? I'm taking it out to put in 4age and i don't wanna scrap thhe lil beast coz its only done 103 000k's

wow thats alot of checking to do ive taken the air filter assembly off and there is plenty of fuel getting to it at idle so no problem there, took my dizzy cap off and the spark plug connections are as corroded as anything so scraped that all off but nothing improved much. then i took off the number 2 spark lead and the idle didnt change at all, I'm thinking it might be something to do with the lead deteriorating cheers "old fella" for the info tho, i will check all that tomorrow

hey all, ive got a ke70 with a 4k-c and 4 speed 2 weeks ago it ran all the way to bunbury and back without a hitch but when i went to start it up today it ran like someone had put toilet water in the fuel tank it starts alright if you got your foot on the accelerator but as soon as its going you need to either turn the idle way up or have choke fully on have tried tuning it already but that only seemed to show that the problem can't be fixed by adjusting idle mixture some background info: brand new battery new points and condensor no leaks on the intake manifold was running good last weekend any input is apprecciated but I'm not going to spend any money on this engine as i am putting a 4age into it within a month or 2 so it's not worth it

i was close enough :y: i was gonna make a ke70 ute at one point but too hard to engineer, ke55 ute would look pretty sick

i effing love the steering lock on this ke70 and the ke55 on the left ke20 on the lright and under heavy braking