kiahn

would ddefinetly be something new, those engines go for ever and they fly too if you have the money and the time then why not try, worst that could happen is you need to manafacture your own parts

oh ok, sweet. well i was actually going to go with a $3 item from altronics which we use on the boat for similar reasons (cuts out the motor at 110 degrees) it will work temporarily while it goes through the pits and then ill work on improving by using the thermo switches/senders already in the piping is the senor in an ae82 external thermostat a temp sender or is it a thermo switch?

so the VDO gauge will tell the fan when to turn on? how much would oneof these miracle gauges cost me, dads got all VDO gauges on the boat and just fro a new tacho it was going to cost something like 400

don't use silicon in high pressure applications like radiators :P doesnt always work the way you want. get some decent arildite glue (the stuff you mix yourself) ok so ive decided to mount the thermoswitch somewhere else as ive realise that it will always be getting a bad reading there as the water will be chilled from the radiator anyway. I'm thinking the rear of the radiator coated in silicon so that air can't distort the reading

in or on? i was thinking maybe attach it to the little pipe that joins the rad to the ext thermostat, atm its being used as a radiator hose support but ill see if it works alright there. cheers dave

http://www.ngkspark.com.au/sparkplug_tech.php?div=mod# heat range explained basically lookss like the only way you will know is by buying 1 of the heat range you THINK will be right and road testing it, seeing if it works better or worse and work from there As mentioned the optimal operating temperature range for a spark plug is 450 – 870°C, 450°C is the spark plug self cleaning temperature at which point carbon deposits will burn off. However, if too cold a spark plug is used and this temperature is not achieved carbon fouling will occur. This is the most common reason for carbon fouling.

hi all, i have just finished my 4age transplant and bought a BIG thermofan, now there is heaps of info on 20v thermo switches but not any that i could find on 16v anyway, was wondering what temp i should turn the thermo fan on at? also where is best spot to mount thermo switch? i have an external thermostat with tem sender in it and also a random piece of pipe coming from bottom of raditator with temp sender dunno if i should use them with thermo fan setup cheers

yeh, i think the problem with cruises is when you try make them on the spot, most people have things planned or prefer planning. hope that this one works out as it will be my first cruise with my licence :lol:

sounds good, I'm thinking sometime like october 26 or 27 depending on sat or sunday having more numbers. that is if my car is licenced at that date :lol: if we want big numbers then i was thinking something along the lines of: meet at curtain uni besides the soccer fields, go for trip up to canning road or the zig-zag (up near chris's place i think) or if anyone can think of another fun filled adventure we can embark on?

i don't know, i put the belt on myself and took like 3 hours to do it so i did it right, it might be one tooth out, would explain the shit down-low throttle response but when its revving higher it goes nicely as if its 10 degrees off will check all the wiring from TPS and AITS and if its still not working then ill get dad to check the belt :lol: cheers trav, btw congrats on the new business man

from everything ive read, if your building something that is going to rev hard then go 4-1 as they have best top end power figures if your using it as a street car only with occassional track use but not pushing it to the rev limiter then go 4-2-1 as they can be easily tuned the same way as what oniBeserker explained P.S i think 4-2-1 look better, got them on my 4age painted black and they look sweet! the top brands seem to prefer the 4-1 design as 4 cylinders are made to rev normally hope that helps

haha garnet thats because you have like 14+ ive finished my car now so once i save up i can go on any cruise any time :osama: until then i might just convince shah to drive me (or me drive him) :lol: haha btw don't feel so bad, toyotaowners forum only had about 7 people show up and that wasnt just limited to corolla's if we make it after october 24 then ill be able to drive :abuse:

will do :lol: dads gonna check through his wiring during the week and make sure its ok

oh ok irokin you sounds correct, stupid early version of EFI so all i have to do is fix the problems then erase them from the ecu?

done cu diagnostic test now and it says the Throttle position sensor and the air intake temp sensor are to blame does this sound right?

oxy sensor is only at cruise though, it leans it out for fuel economy, i have a map sensor and electronic ignition both are working, it advances good when it revs

hey all I'm not brilliant at mechanical fault finding so here is the problem 4age from an ae86 (RWD manifold) just dropped into a ke70 and it is doing something wierd, if we unplug the injectors the engine doesnt change revs much (maybe 50rpm max) the idle is alright and at correct rpm, the TPS is set correct and there is plenty of fuel as you can smell its over fueling and see it on plugs too when you goto rev it the timing changes so much that it doesnt want to climb revs fast, gets up to temp like normal and stays there we suspect the oxy sensor is to blame but we don't to what degree it effects the performance (obviously mixture is effected but to what extent) please help as I'm starting to get frustrated and run out of ideas cheers

we have life, but it run rough as guts. the dizzy is either not advanced enough or too advanced (yes i have tried skipping a tooth on the dizzy) running rich as hell too has an alright idle but has a popping noise (like detonation) so we fix timing by skipping a tooth and then its too retarded :lol:

yeh 4k's rev hard, mine went crap until about 4500 then pulled all the way to 8000, couple times hit the 9000 mark to keep up with a civic or something

i once put 91 octane in my car :y: lol nah put 200mL of kero in the tank once as i wanted to replicate the smoke show that planes do, didnt work like i wanted but did clean out the carby and made it run smoother

little power? they call them pocket rockets for a reason, they are quite nice as a whole never heard anything bad bout them actually, sporty, handle great and reliable

a lil less slant on the angry eyes and they would be perfect. as long as there iis at least 3/4 of the clear section stilll there it should be all good

the top ones look overrated when you paint them and sand back the face of it so its shiny, mine are gold and look respectable on a stock ke70 (with 4age) or paint em black

ive got 4 of the top ones in 13x6, better condition thatn those ones and i bought the set with rooted tyres for $100 bottom ones id say like $200-300 for both, neither of them have good offsets or width thats only reason why i wouldnt give them a high price tag

extractors would add almost no power if its a stock engine apart from the weber, but yes they would be good. on my old system i had the 4k manifold going to a 2 inch press bents system, sounder deep and sexy once it got to about 1700 rpm