kiahn

these are the 2 i was looking at, btw the steel is 304 alloy: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ally-surge-tank-with...93%3A1|294%3A50 steel: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Polished-Stainless-...93%3A1|294%3A50

shopping list: map sensor coil and igniter lift pump efi pump [bought] surge tank brake lines hopefully will have this thing running in a month

which metal is better when buying a surge tank? i can get a alloy one for 50 bux less but I'm worried bout corroding, the stainless one I'm looking at has a bracket for fuel pump and is polished for $140 any advice apprecciated

if there is dirt in the cylinder then try get it out with high pressure air. but i don't think that would do much good as it might have found it way in between the piston rings

sounds good :) how much will these cost this year??

yeh i was going to but I'm only allowed 2 engines in my shed at one time ans seen as the 2 guys that were supposed to pick up parts didn't show. also i didnt have the money to buy the master cylinder what are peoples opinions on the master cylinders on ebay?? i know their a cheap jobby but that really all i need as this engine only needs to last 2 years before a i get my 4agte possibly even 4agtte :P oh and i have an update, when taking my old exhaust out i smashed it into my hydraulic brake line and upon inspection found out all my lines need replacing so i will have to buy a pipe bender and a shitload of pipes and redo my lines. i also might put in a bigger fuel line while I'm there. so much to do :)

i agree with the poll, would be the farest way

and i also think he means 43kw at the flywheel not the wheels. this would be something id enjoy seeing 3k turbo:D makes me happy in the pants

and also depends what condition you want it in, if you want a tight 4age to just drop in then you would be looking at between $500-$1000 i have no experience with 2t-g's

http://www.pedders.com.au/catalogue put in your car year and what not and it comes up with exactly what you want. pedders will fit them for you

awesome build, I'm doing same build in my ke70. this makes it look as hard as it really is, not like mumblezz conversion that was done in one post :) I'm jealous coz mines still just an engine in a ke70 no wiring yet or anything

the wiring would be possible if you have the correct loom that the dash is made for you will need the wiring diagrams and a decent knowledge of electronics

if you goto how to build a tough 4k motor in FAQ that has some good reading material in there. bascially if you want to get most hp out of stock engine id buy another 4k engine and rebuild it. get a 272 cam, 2 inch sports exhaust, extractors, cold air intake, flywheel lightened, head shaved 40 thou and a weber. this will get good power gain using stock engine, but if you want to really squeeze power out of a 4k you should: bore it out 40 thou and get some oversized pistons, use new bearings otherwise its not worth pulling it apart in first place. when your engine is apart you may want to get it all balanced so that you can rev it hard. get the car looking respectable first then start modding the engine otherwise cops will have a field day with you every time you put your foot down, where bouts in perth you from?

this stage took me from 9 am till 5 pm and i had about 2 hours off for eating and goofing round here are a few pics in order of happening: get block and tackle and attach to 20 yr old wooden veranda get ke70 with shirry 4k remove the bits that attach the engine to the chassis pull that piece-o-crap out detach the old GB and tailshaft (don't forget the earth wires, their everywhere) take the old tailshaft out put new crossmember, tailshaft and GB in put new 4AGE in use a shovel to make the GB fit onto the engine and now youve got your engine in

ENGINE IS IN :) only done half of the conversion so far as its missing a few little bits the it needs to run, ie starter motor

wtf, was this really necessary?

alright, everything is collected, just need an accessories belt, hydraulic clutch conversion and an efi conversion and it should run. if it doesnt I'm gonna attempt to throw my block over my back fence :dance:

more pics more pics!!!! i saw an old kingswood with hotwires on it at the shops, the amount of dish on the rims was amazing. have good time with build

EXACTLY! haha best said simple like that. and it is 8 degrees but thats at 2000 rpm at 750 rpm (warm idle) its 6 degrees due to vac advance i guess

normally if its too much fuel it'll spew out black smoke id say if you revved its tits off you may have blown a head gasket

when i went to kawasaki because my motorbike was fowling plugs like a mofo the guy there who is an ex racer told me that professional racers use 95 or 98 octane fuel because it burns slower and at high revvs colder than 91. the reason you push the timing up when you run higher octane fuel is because the burn time is longer by milliseconds and the further you push timing the slower the fuel needs to burn therefore higher the octane. thats my understanding of how fuel works.

from what ive read 175 sounds like pretty good compression 40 thou on the head would be as far as id go so that you have space to skim it again if you blow head gasket I'm not 100% sure on this but everywhere ive read so far says that the higher compression you have the more aggressive cam you need

higher octane fuel burns slower and cooler, maybe this is the reason for the temp creeping?? my gregory's manual said 8 degrees at 2000 rpm and i was running 10-12 degrees when i put 95 through it and it ran fine without pinging

yeh like if you want deep droney noise get a large muffler, ive got a RO racing muffler 2" in 3" out and it sounds beautiful on hard accel, nice and quiet on cruise and has race sounding backfire when deccelerating. try find a muffler that you like then just get a few pipe bends from a exhaust place and make your own tip with a welder and a hacksaw

make sure the idle mixture is correct. my dad's triton didn't change at all when we took it out