gtnickk

awesome just awesome, paint looks tops.

beast, this is going to be good

I Have a redline manifold on my ke55 was a shit of thing to fit, took to mine with a grinder, replaced all my studs and used washers, problem sorted took me a good 1-2 hours putting the manifold on and off marking it where it was fouling, grinding a little bit off at a time. Make sure you use the one piece manifold gasket.

Hard question to answer, I believe market value is going up for these old cars i think a registered ke30-55 on the road that is good will be 3k plus, have seem some clean cars lately been advertised for large sums 7k plus, and have sold. Unsure what they have sold for though, during the 90-s to early 2000s you could by unregistered ke30 for $100 and registered ke30-55 for under a grand. gone or those days. on a another note, i am also starting to believe that these models are starting to become collectable and desirable which is forcing there dollar up. it is a bit bit like a Datsun z series or 1600 or even 120y look how they have sky-rocketed over the last 10-12 years. lets not even talk about Ae86 or 1st gen celicas Ta22-ra28 etc: Even the humble old Ke70 is up in value due to rise in drift seen etc: there starting price for a stocker is 2k plus in 3-5 years time i think the minimum market value for a good ke30-55 will be around 5k and start, to go up from there. But it all comes down to what your are prepared to pay for your gem that you find.

looks great, as stated so hard to believe this was not being used and just left to rot. I am glad it has found a new home, and owner that appreciates this gem.

Hey guys Long time member don't get on here much. Intend to change that now i have more time now to do the finer things in life like work on old Toyota's. My Problem I have a ke55 running a 5k, trying to get a 40 mm DCOE Carb running correctly, i can get the car to fire and run, the car bogs down and does not pull. I have checked the plugs they are wet. I get the feeling the carburettor is pushing to much fuel threw. Turn Car of i here a pinging sound, bit of research has lead me to believe this could be pre detonation, so i have replaced the plugs and leads to try and eliminate that problem i have held a hose to my ear checked the manifold to see if any air is being sucked in. so there appears to be no leaks. I have also spayed some carby cleaner around the manifold to see if can get the car to increase revs, no luck thus i don't think i have a manifold leak. per the weber manual i have the idle mixture screws not 1/2 turn out from being seated, My car does have a mild cam, but functioned fine with a 32/36 Webber carb So any ideas what could be causing this problem perhaps stuck needle and seat, do you think i need to advance the timing etc: wrong jet size if so what would be a good size. I don't have any experience with Dcoe Carbs Any feedback would be great. Cheers Nick

Hi Guys, i have fitted a 40mm dcoe weber using the standard accelerator cable, replace my old cable as could not get movement from pedal to linkage, everything is tight, I think i might be missing a part, so i had a look of toydiy, everything is there in the picture, however i think the spring on the pedal might be broken, thus getting no movement, has any one had any issues like this, or could anyone post a picture of the pedal and spring in the car so i can see what it should look like, thanks for your time Cheers Nick

This may have been spoken about before, but stumbled across this, i had never seen it and thought thats pretty cool, so here it is. link to thread: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=23709

Thanks for those photos, will muck around with the second option tonight. Cheers Nick

Hi folks, Just intstalled a single 40mm weber Dcoe on my Ke55, but can't work out how to make the throttle linkage work, if any one can posts pics of there setups that what be great, that way i can see what parts i need, might have or are missing, thanks Nick

Update Time My Gilmer drive caused a leak in the water pump i believe, so i swapped water pumps and re installed the Gilmer pulley. No more leaks. I don't trust the factory temp gauge so i decided to install a VDO gauge. This got me motivated and i fitted a 40 mm DCOE Weber on a Warneford manifold. That i had laying around. Still yet to work out my linkage for this set-up. Also swapped rocker covers from painted to polished. will post pics soon. Excuse the dusty car and the shitty phone pic

If your car is 30 years or older this may be an option. My KE55 is on historic rego with Toymods club, My car is original so to speak, Historic Rego allows period correct modifications, I drive my car only to shows,club events and maintenance runs ie trip to mechanic/panel beater , I keep a log book and have approval for every trip before use. I treat this as a privilege and do not abuse it. Link Below http://www.toymods.org.au/site/historic-rego/ That should have all the information your require.

Ok my next job is i want to make it stop better. I would like to fit a Nissan Skyline R31 rear diff to my car, or is there a better option for creating Disc brake rear. Does this require engineering in NSW.

Such a Shame this is going of the road. Really good looking car, if only i had the space and dollars.

Hello Scott Yes they are Nemoto Mesh, no clearance issues what so ever.

The Next things i want to do to the car are. I have a pair of Old School Recaro's which need to be Re-trimmed to suit the vehicle. So order is Re-trim the interior Source and install a pair of DCOE carbs Also Does anyone Know someone in Newcastle area that does custom Alloy work.

Car is all but done now. Had it in Maitlands Steamfest Car Show and Shine. Couple of pics from the Show

Well Done mate

I deal with After-market panels every day of the week. Reproduction panels should be treated as a template to be made to fit your vehicle. I say this because that the moulds/tooling that GENUINE/OEM have are different to after-market panel factory's. Thus your reproduction panel will be different, it also comes done to material used as well. After-market panels are normally a lot thinner then GENUINE/OEM, bolt holes do not line up etc: There is a reason why insurance companys in NSW do not use after-market parts. At the end of the day you get what you pay for. In regards to RRR Auto Parts i have dealt with them i have found them helpful and product OK. I'm not saying the product is crap. What i am saying is that you can't expect a After-market panel to bolt straight onto your vehicle with out alterations. Just Remember that the dollars you save when purchasing a part/panel. You should keep some in your pocket for fitment and finishing costs. I hope this helps and all the best.

A Question for the gurus. I had one genuine key for the car for the ignition barrel. The car has Solex door locks hence the reason for one key I had to replace my ignition barrel and key, because the barrel played up and key got stuck inside the barrel. Not thinking i threw the damage barrel and key out. As a result. Now i can't open my fuel cap. Besides damaging the fuel cap is there away to get it off with out a key or does anyone have blanks Etc: Any tips would be great.

Pictures of rust repairs More to come but it is getting there

Few Old Pics during The Initial Restoration

Hi Guys and Gals. Well I'm back with a new ride. The Latest addition to my fleet is this Ke55. Features Engine Warm 5k Genie Extractors 2.5 Exhaust System 5 speed Conversion (Celica Gearbox) 32/36 Weber Carb Stage 3 Cam Thermo fan Body complete Ground up restoration All new rubbers and lots of NOS parts Lenso rims pictured above have now been changed. it will be sponsoring a set a Nemoto Mesh 15x7 very soon. Future Mods Twin 40mm Webers R31 Rear diff Coil-overs front and back Chin splitter and Rear Venetian More Pics to come

Good to see that she has gone to a good home. :P

The Great Escape Brave Heart Indiana Jones (all three)