springersrolla

playing round with new wheels, what u think looks better, just painted the centre? I'm gonna get stainless studs for the wheels around the inside of the lip

what carb are you running?? is it a pre pollution 3k or a 4k carb?? also check out about fuel solenoid, disengage it, and se if anything changes

have picked up a set of 40mm webers and have a ported head ready to slap on. also have a set of 15x7 performance globes to go on. looking at bolting the rear leaves and 4.3 diff in soon and have a bit of fun. hope u enjoy my little hobby

pushed to get the car roadworthyed and everything came up sweet, everything worked well and the tyres were brand new and brakes were perfect. got rego for it and have been runnnig around for the last couple of months

hey lads heres my project, bought for a measly amount off a mate who had it garaged for 5years, i had sold my last perfect 35 and wanted another that i could molest a little instead of keeping it bog standard. The car was bought with a dinted drivers door, boot and car full of useless shit, zero rust and no motor or box, plus a whinging diff. I played around with it for a while, picked up a ke36 pano with a 3tgte, t50 and ford 9" and slotted the motor and box in, hated the whole setup and how it was done, and what was needed to be done, when a 5k would have been much more easier for rego and time and cost. picked up a cheap ke70 with a good compression5k , k50 and everything was sorted. picked up a set of extractors from the wreckers, and the car came with an exhaust to suit. Out of the ke36 pano had a set of ra40/60? front struts (EDIT)found out the other day, the bad boys are rt132 front struts, got them machined, new pads and wheel bearings every thing is sweet up front now i then completely rebuilt the front end of the car, each tierod and idler arm, steering arm replaced due to being standard and sloppy. also rekitted a set of xt130 lcas(EDIT)- picked up a set of GE?? GH sigma arms for $20 from pick and pay. light mods to the superpro bushes and light sand on the ball joints and about 2. something negitive camber, wound a die nut down the castor rod arms for more castor, and superpro'ed every bush i could find in the front. As i stands the rear end is completely standard as for a set of koni adjustable rear shocks. also running a 4.1:1 diff. I have another diff with 4.3:1 with lowered leaves ready to be installed. Constant addictive trolling on the net has let me buy a few bits and pieces ready for some fun with this 5k. next update

I'm also looking in to this conversion. as ive researched ta22 engine mounts and the engine should sit on the ke35 crossmember, but sits further back and to the right. http://reocities.com/colosseum/4883/2tswap.html ive got a 3t and i got a t18 crossmember, I'm trying to get my hands on a ke30 crossmember and make some measurements. ill let you know what i find out, if something you find works let me know cheers

So what's needed for the convenience

don't waste your time with anything other than rebushing your front end first!!! check your tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm. For ʞ©$ɟsake change tierods if they have slop they are too cheap to skint on!!!. replace them first if they are sloppy. drive your car to the wreckers, find a gh sigma, take a 14,17mm spanner, can't remember, a few other duplicate sockets and other sizes, undo nuts, take lcas, walk into your local discount parts shop, buy ball joints and bushes. bushes will need crush tube and bush grinded/filed/cut down until they fit into ke crossmember, your ke steering arms will dodgely fit to gh sigma ball joints, i reamed mine out slighty with emery unitl i gained approx 3mm more shaft to steering arm hole clearance, then ran loctite on them, fit lcas to your freshly rebushed front end, buy or borrow a dienut the same as your castor rods, run it down another 2inches at least, buy new castor bushes. refit and line up your castor to the best of your judgement and limp to a wheel alignment shop eg; pedders, tell them you want as much castor as you can get before the tyre scrubs the front of your guard. drive home knowing that the front end is the best it will handle for minimal dollars and then save for coilovers, adjustable strut tops, etc your ke30 will never handle like a gokart but its easy and cheap to make it much better than standard. get yourself some later model struts with bigger brakes and enjoy the ancient shit with handling with newer brakes.

Gh sigma I do believe, its the one without the bolt in ball joint. makes about 2.5 to 3 degrees Camber over standard, which is a little positive. Borrow a die nut from a workshop and then run it down your castor rods, around 50mm then pull your front wheels forward until they come close to the guards. My car is ʞ©$ɟin awesome handles so much nicer over stock

dyno??

i run KTFL-16 springs in my ra60??.... struts in ke35 with no dramas whatsoever, i can't imagine there being any issue with it, lowered the front slightly but nicely

cbf putting up a picture. the photo of your control arm doenst have the sleeve required for the bush to sit in. you will need that sleeve for the bush or its useless. no idea if another style sleeve will fit. i have xt130 ones with brand new bushes sitting in my shed if you want them, ive upgraded to sigmas, pm me and ill take so photos for you

the bush comes with a crush tube, without it is useless, i would say you have the wrong part, when i ordered my superpro bushes, the crush tube and urethane was moulded as one

pulled some of the info from here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-271444--start-380--index.html altezza what did you do for vacuum lines for the lynx manifold?? still struggling to decide what to do out of simplicity, su's appear to need some work, then will need a good clean up, and have to do all the checks, ill go over this dellorto and see how it looks in comparisson thanks for all your knowledge

Cost is the biggest issue at the moment, I'd love twins, i've found twins on eBay for 1300, I'd rather the Su's as there free and sitting here at the moment. I just have to modify the Su linkage to suit. Guess there's no harm in trying and goin from there.

extractors aren't 2" sorry, but exhaust is. its pending difficult to find much info on a tuning a single 40mm to suit k series but i imagine it wouldn't be too bad i have a k series to suit su manifold here to suit the twin su's i have only reason i suggest an 02 sensor is i have a jaycar air fuel reader i wanna hook up. i did a bit of research and found cfms of carbs standard 150-160cfm 32/36 255-300cfm 40mm dellorto with 32mm chokes 336cfm 38 dgas 380 cfm single HS4 SU 142cfm each what sort of cfm should i be looking at getting? I'm guessing the biggest restriction would then be a manifold after the carb anyways. really I'm looking for something with ease of putting on and running, letting me get somewhere without needing trailer etc cheers

Gday, struggling for choice with my options for intake on my 5k. Full 2" exhaust extractors, will be bolting on my worked head, o/s valves port work and will be chasing a suitable cam. Currently running a standard 3k carb. It seems to run out of legs around 5-5500rpm. I have sitting at home a gemini nikki carb modded sitting on k manifold, never tested. Twin SU's from a l20 datsun with k manifold Single 40mm dhla dellorto - no manifold but have found one Also found a 38/38 weber, and a 32/36 online Now, I've been looking at and comparing cfm's of all carbs, but what is too big, what will work well, what's easiest to tune, run and get resonable economy??? Also what is the best idea with running a 02 sensor, what type? And where's the best spot to place. I have seen altezzaclubs write up and I think ill stick to just one after the collector, but any idea how far down?? Any info would be tops, help me start getting me on my way Cheers

was watching rambo first blood and when the cop is chasin him outta town at the start when hes strapping that 2 stroke, looks to be a yellow te37 in the background

i read an article years ago on the benefits of cooling systems, they reckon the last thing needed was a thermofan? if youve eliminated the problems of sensors, thermostat and radiator, hows the water pump? i know the article mentioned surrounding the radiator in foam to prevent any air bypassing the radiator, and forcing it to run threw it other point would be where can the heat escape? if your drawing air from front end threw the radiator, it can only travel under the firewall and floorpan to escape to reduce heat. maybe suitable bonnet vents may help reduce under bonnet temp?? at what point its it its hottest? idle, low speed or all the time?

holy f@$k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! spent the last week finally trying to complete my front end of my ke35 refreshing all rubber bushes to urethane ones, everything has been more sufficent/easy as shit to find, until the castor rod/strut bar to chassis bushes. Superpro sell the bushes at 22mm with a crush tube to suit http://www.superpro.com.au/find-superpro-parts-for-my-vehicle/part?id=SPF0699-22K no idea if this is standard, but f@$k my car is 100% standard and this isnt the same bush/ part number. So after 10days and 100s of ks of sorry mate/ we don't stock that/ you'll have to pay $10 postage/ I don't think they do that part for a ke35!!! I almost gave up till a semi anxious/aggressive call to repco for a nolethane unit happended to be 2 mins from my door oh yeah no worrys mate part number 48064. so if anyone is needing/wondering on making there ole ke30-55 steer, handle repco is the shit for that and wont pull numbers like other mobs did. http://www.nolathane.com.au/do_segue.php?make=TOYOTA&model=Corolla&model_final=Corolla+KE30%2C+35%2C+36%2C+38%2C+50%2C+55+%28Levin%2C+Trueno%29&vehicle=11%2F74-11%2F81 hope it helps for anyone. Only problem now is half the front end is dark blue half is bright red. now i just gotta drive it:)

Awesome, cheers for the knowledge

What's the actual situation of fitting sigma arms?? Isn't something different with the balljoint?

Hey dudes at booval supercheap there is 2 hcb brand clutch kits says suits ke20 part number is r47n. Reduced to clear if someone wants it and can't get it i can grab it. Cheers

highly recommend this bloke Auto-Carbs Automotive 103 Norman Street, East Brisbane QLD 4169 (07) 3391 2433 ‎ more than enough time to help you, will usually run a probe up the exhaust, adjust tappets, tune and jet for around 150. Piece of mind to drive in drive out and its got no more dramas hope it helps ya

Adam KE70 84 Bog standard 4k-c Trimatic, recoed head Standard height and brakes csx rims with yokohama a-drives Interior: completely standard Body: standard Other: picked up granny spec, 2 previous owners, genuine 141000ks with great service history. Keen to just drive around town getting to work and back, never misses a beat