anastasios

yep i drove it for about a day and a half until i noticed it started to overheat, i think it is also due to the detonation, I havent had it properly timed yet.

Ok so I am back at square one pretty much, engine is out of the car, head is at the machine shop, and I am about to take the pistons out to be machined, reason is that it blew another headgasket, so the engineer has looked at the engine, measured what he needed and will be recalculating the comp ratio.

Argh that has to be the worst bolt to get to, ffs

Ok so I got the solenoid repaired on my starter motor, and I went to crank over the engine and the starter motor kept going even when I turned the key off, I had to take off the neg terminal.

Chucked in 22re on google

Nope, head first and then manifolds Yea I was thinking of cutting the metal part of the mount, seems like the easiest way to go atm

Its not commonly done, and therefore you would have to do alot of stuff yourself

hahaha! thats once happened to one of my rear wheels in my 55, but luckily i was going slow and the drum landed inside the rim

Also it is not as if he has contributed to the forum, he is just using our brains to make money, which is a bit dirty to be honest!

I doubt it would be the bumpstops that the police would be worried about, the will just say its defected for being too low, fix it.

Haha sweet as, so I was having a look more closely at the extractors today as I am now able to remove them as I got that flange on the end, they were hard up against the heat shield on the engine mount, so I took the heat shield off and now it the 1st cylinder exhaust is hitting on the actual metal part of the mount, would this have caused the head to move as I tightened the exhaust manifold on as it would be pulling against the head? Should I get that 1st tube modified to not hit? Also it comes dangerously close to the starter motor wiring and stuff, should something be done about that?

Hm I couldn't find the loctite nevaseize, there was a product called anti seize though, and it is in a long tube, is this the correct one? Is that applied to the threads of the headbolts with grease on top?

there mustnt be that many wreckers around perth, someone start searching!

I want to try and not throw them away atm, and see if they can be repaired. I wouldn't mind taking a look at what designs the others use.

omg i wish i could press my brake and accelerator at the same time

Yes it was a brand new gasket, I did follow the correct sequence, but I guess because I didn't grease the bolts it was out, and I will check my wrench. Should I send the head to get resurfaced again? Or will this up the compression more?

Why not go 4age?

Now that I have a flange on the end of the extractors I will be able to put them on properly and I will buy a EM30 1 piece. Also Toyota told me that they will have to order the head gasket from Japan as they have no more in stock...which sucks.

No, when I took the head to get machined the guy asked me what pistons I was using and if they were flush, and then shaved the head to suit.

Hm I can't check the torque wrench, but it should be ok, its a Kincrome one, I didn't grease the headbolts either

Head thickness is 80mm, distance between bolt and block is 76mm. So I don't think bottoming is an issue. Could it have blown when he pinged it? Or from the timing being out and trying to start it? I did get a nice little fireball coming out of the top of the carby a couple times.

I had a mechanic come past who fiddled with the timing to get it started, I think it did ping as he was adjusting it. I didn't run a tap through the threads for the headbolts, but I did blow them out with compressed air. Maybe the headbolts are bottoming? How can I check this? Bolt one in and measure the distance inbetween?

Well what was happening was it was overheating badly, I then started losing all my water through my overflow bottle, and I tried starting it with the radiator cap off and water was spurting out due to gases entering the water. Then when I got home I took off the oil cap and there was the foamy crap in the top of it, I made sure I was extra careful with the torques etc and the parts were very clean. Would pics make things easier?

So somehow I managed to blow the headgasket, although in the time while it was driving I did manage to get a flange put on the end of the extractors so I could mount the manifolds on properly, but I think driving with the leaking manifolds caused the headgasket to blow. So as its all out again, I took off the heat shield on the engine mount that was fowling the extractors, and will be getting the starter motor rebuilt as the plastic cap where the wires connect to seems very loose and moves around

I'd go Kincrome, I had one of my Sidchrome ratchets kinda stuff up, but it could be because I misused it