MattyZ

helll yeah that looks siic, nice work, is that atomic green or a different green?

i got one for my celica off ebay, its heavy duty as not flimsy at all just a bit heavy but nothings made dodgy, if its mounted right ya wont have a problem

van looks siic, if ya goin with the rat rod theme should get a white rear venetian

they basically wait at your door waiting for you to pull out, if you have P plates you may as well get out pull ya pants down and bend over on a different note been reading this build looks killer keep up the mad work and show us these wheels haha :rolls:

before ya cop a floggin from people saying use the search button which is rather a useless post heres a thread of a SR20DET into a KE55 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=34454

Hey mate read the entire thread and jaw is on the floor unbelievable build looks mental can't wait to see that colour slapped on just a few Qs regarding your engine bay I'm hoping to do a similar thing with my engine bay on my celica maybe not to the extent of yours tho don't think ive got the skills just yet but theres a first for everything haha, what products did you use to get it that smooth? and roughly what steps did ya take to get it like that? any tips or advice would be more than appreciated

yes you can i haven't done it yet but will be on my RN25 diff using MA70 rear hub carriers, backing plates these should be compatible and of course the brakes you will have to upgrade your master cylinder and also you can use a supra LSD too but what model diff may vary which supra and brakes you use the RN41 diff you can use disc brakes add in a G series LSD centre and MA70 rear hub carriers, backing plates and brakes hopefully this helped

100th post woo lol so i been up to a few things, shell work has slowed up a bit as i haven't had the use of a welder waiting on new tips. but in the mean time ive started taking back the front struts, hubs, backing plates, bolts, get it ready for paint and new gear ordered new standard rotors caliper rebuild kit wheel bearings body wise, decided to get fibreglass flares and go with a JDM theme, 14s copious amounts of dish, strap tow hook, flutes or trumpets, small front lip figured out my plates too but keeping that under wraps till they're ordered so heres a couple pictures striped all the strut components with a wire brush on a drill works a treat!, and i officially hate grease shit gets everywhere interior to date. right strut and assembly spot the difference that all for now, please let me know ya thoughts and opinions or any tips always welcome should hopefully do more tomorrow welding tips arrived today so i can do more on the shell and prepare the other strut for when the new gear comes in hopefully monday or early next week

hey mate lovin this thread very interesting, I'm very keen on the end result as i may go with a similar setup for my celica, once youve perfected this setup just an opinion would you be able to post just a overview of this like whats needed/or to be done, might also save you later with people asking questions what they need. keep up the awesome work following this thread for sure cheers matt

yeah that white 30 i believe may be my cousins runs a 5k-5speed ill try bung a photo of it up see if its the one thing is overrated! and on a diff not I'm the owner of reCOUPErators celica in his dp and if ya see a yellow ke70 lowish on black stockies with chrome trims and centre caps around elizabeth are mornings and arvos could be mine, ma dad uses it for a work hack

this thing is overrated! you still gonna get the chrome gear re dipped or not worry about till later on?

Howdy all I'm looking at an engineer to talk over some plans about my TA22 Celica with, i know transport SA has a list of engineers but i was hoping that people on here might give me the names of some of the engineers they've used and haven't any problems with e.g getting mixed messages on what i can and can't do. and have a proper understanding on whats required any help or suggestions would be great

Hey mate, wagz is farkin siiic to say the least absoloutly love it just a couple qs? have ya done much work to the chassis to prevent twist from the copious amounts of torque? like seam welding bracing underneath etc?

just a few more pictures got rid of most of the rust now on the interior just one patch of rust to cut and replace and thats behind the pedals, and then just need to cut and fill the 3 remaining drain holes, because thats what made the floor pan rust in the first place the plugs don't work. and ive finished seam welding all the interior. next steps Repair rust behind pedals Cut and fill drain holes finish wire brushing floor replace parcel shelf box in boot replace back seat ancor points

This things is drop dead sexy, clean as with the power to boot, what colour is that? looks amazing on it :dance: keep with the updates and fark load of photos mattyz

Just a lil update, Almost finished seam welding the interior, all sound deadener has been removed found more rust in the driver foot well but not as bad as the left side and some rust in the floor seam that would be roughly under the driver seat easy to fix just a little but more time thats all. then i can move to underneath and start wirebrushin the shit out of it get it ready for some new under body tar. haven't picked up my RN25 yet as my mate has uni and we wanna give the good old 12R a thrashin before its stripped and sent to the scrappers. and I'm buying a set of Halo Headlights from Ebay gonna run some purple globes for show coz why the hell not its different and will go well with the blue :fuzz::D will try get more photos of progress tomorrow :) cheers folkz any qs just ask away usually on rollaclub 32 hours a day :dance: haha

thanks for that callum :jamie:

got quite a bit more done, seam welded quite a bit of the front end, just need to do underneath, left passenger side is all baremetal inside, and the inner guard is all welded up. started to wire brush the light assembly get it ready for a coat of gloss black, since the headlights produce some heat, should i use heat paint for the long term or just go with rattle can gloss black? before after

hey mate, the utes looking killlla!, be following this closely, i just have a q, what company are you looking at getting the halo headlights from?, I'm looking for a same set up for my ta22, with a halo highbeam and a halo low and high beam, if ya have a website or company name that would be killer keep up the awesome work and ill be lookin forward to more updates cheers matt

yeah my donor had lest rust but it was in harder place to repair like numerous holes in the roof skin so I'm just gonna use the good parts from my donor wheres the fun if its easy hahaha.

so here's the pictures, grinded the arch to bare metal, and did finished doing the last bit of welding on the replacement section now i just need to grind it all relatively flush and bobs ya uncle finished that was gonna be one of the hardest part of this rebuild, the next hardest part will be to replace the parcel shelf and window seat or frame what ever ya wish to call it.

ok got the left inner guard all bare metal now, and the replacement patch it all in and welded up just need to grind welds flush and then i can start to replace the section where the battery tray is, once that is done the inner guard will be ready for a coat of rust preventative paint and then a coat of black sound deadner. ill get some pictures up today once ive done some more work slowly coming along nicely, I'm going to need to do a run to AJPS and get new clutch cylinder, rear sway bar, some springs and shocks for the front end. drop into autopro and order a 03-06 camry brake master cylinder.

cheers for that simon, helped heaps nearly up to that stage of re applying the body tar

hey mate, awwwesome rebuild, doing it properly first time I'm doing the same with my ta22, ground up no nut left untouched lol i was hoping ya could answer a few questions did you apply any rust preventative paint or primer on the under body before the tar or did you just apply the tar to the baremetal? how much did it roughly cost to do it? did ya do it with rattle cans or with a spray gun? cheers keep up the orgazmic rebuild matty

so i got it relatively lined up few gaps but nothing that can't be filled, with a sliver of metal. got it tacked now just need to finish the taking then go round till no more gaps use a linishing disk to grind the welds flush, wire wheel brush surrounding area and rest of inner guard and move onto replacing the metal section where the battery tray used to reside.