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Si's 5kte Ke55


Taz_Rx

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Got the road tuning done today. Running nicely on 16 psi, can really notice the cam now, maybe slightly less rpm than the last one but it feels so much stronger through the mid range now.

 

....oh and my speeding ticket could have been a lot worse, so i'll just take that one on the chin. Lol

 

 

Wide LSA FTW..lol, wish i knew more about cams when i did [email protected] on a 116 or 117lsa would be

much better..not 108 like mine had..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by untubbed_20
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  • 1 month later...

Yeah mate...... 15x9 -10 Rota Alecias in Gold/polished

 

I'm really happy with them....... now they're finally on the car. Wish I could say the same about the purchase process and reccomend rota wheels but to be honest I'd be more inclided to say look elsewhere....... But at the end of the day Wei did finally come through with the goods and do right by me so I won't bad mouth him.

 

More piccies.......

 

post-1315-0-65514800-1359721393.jpg

 

post-1315-0-54793900-1359721442.jpg

 

Rear fitment is what I would basically consider perfect with the flairs. Front could maybe even be zeros, but by the time I add a little more camber they should be perfect too. I'm not really a huge fan of the strectched look, I'm putting up with it as I had those tyresn (195) already...... plus they're nice and grippy. When it comes time to replace them I'll probably look at something like 205-215 on the front and 235-245 on the rear. Depends how deep my pockets are at the time I suppose.

 

 

 

Also, here's my cam specs Darren. Was originally a Crow 600740 (cortina Bathurst grind) modified to 114 L/C at my request.

 

.050" valve timing

inlet opens: 1 B.T.D.C., closes: 47 A.B.D.C .050" Duration: 228

exhaust opens: 52 B.B.D.C. closes: 2 A.T.D.C. .050" Duration: 234

 

Advertised valve timing

inlet opens: 27 B.T.D.C., closes: 73 A.B.D.C Advertised Duration: 280

exhaust opens: 78 B.B.D.C. closes: 28 A.T.D.C. Advertised Duration: 286

Inlet lobe lift at T.D.C. on overlap .055

 

inlet and exhaust lobe lift is .2671 and .4007 at the valve.

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  • 3 months later...

So haven't updated this is a little while.....

 

Did a gasket change a few weeks back, also swapped the .64 rear housing back on the T28, as apposed to the .48. Comes on maybe 300-500rpm later but pulls a lot harder through the top end. The cam also seems to be a bit more generous in the top end with the .64.

 

Since the rebuild and re-tune I've never really been happy with the fuel economy. I've had a good play with some of the ECU setting like the 'over-run fuel cut' and decelerate enleanment but hasn't made a great deal of difference. After having a good chat to my tuner the other day I decided the main problem is the low compression, which is currently at 7:1. Although it drives fine the motor just isn't overly efficient...... off boost anyway, and is just working a bit harder than it really should do. Looking back the fact I had to put around 20% extra fuel into the original map to get it to run after the rebuild was probably a pretty good indicator! If the car was just a weekend warrior it probably wouldn't be such a problem, but considering it is my daily driver I need to find a good balance between outright power, drivability and economy. Thinking I'll up the compression to around 8.5:1 by giving the head a shave and re-tune after I've got my tax return done. If some time down the track I get another turbo and start running some proper boost as planned I still have things like water/meth at my disposal to compensate for the slightly higher C/R.

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8.5 is a very normal ratio, anything below that is kind of old school and more detrimental than beneficial. Why water/meth? Are you going to run over 25 psi? Water/meth is not really a reliable option, the problem is that if you tune to it on a petrol engine, when the nozzle gets blocked you have a lean situation = ping = boom. It is a great thing on diesels because without tuning to it you can still gain 40+ hp @ wheels.

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