Matts Ke30......sr20det

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

Painted interior bits today, got some flat paint of the interior colour.

 

painted rear seat, steering column, handbrake, door cards, dash.

 

 

 

 

started fitting some dash frame bits, and pedal box.

 

 

also engine bay is ready for final layer of undercoat.

 

Edited September 4, 2010 by oh what a nissan feeling!

[MattyZ]

Hey mate

 

read the entire thread and jaw is on the floor unbelievable build looks mental can't wait to see that colour slapped on

 

just a few Qs regarding your engine bay I'm hoping to do a similar thing with my engine bay on my celica maybe not to the extent of yours tho don't think ive got the skills just yet but theres a first for everything haha,

 

what products did you use to get it that smooth? and roughly what steps did ya take to get it like that?

 

any tips or advice would be more than appreciated

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

Thanks mate, I love the celicas, i kinda wish this was one.

 

Keep in mind this engine bay will owe me 60 to 70 hours when its painted, thats a lot of time.

 

this is the most important stage, if this aint perfect you end up with a whole lot of bog.

 

 

You need to be able to shrink, and weld. You also need a few different types of dollys and a panel hammer.

 

To shrink you usually use an oxy, but instead i have a plumbers yellow gas bottle, these are propane? i think. $80 for bottle and tip.

 

To shrink a spot you heat it until expands into a lump (this doesnt have to be red hot), and then tap the lump down with a hammer, then wait for it to cool.

 

Lots of the bumps you want to remove will go away by shrinking, in fact you will be amazed at what you can do with persistence.

 

anything you can't remove by shrinking, you will have to cut, panel beat, and weld.

 

Weld all seams if you plan on smoothing them over.

 

When panel beating, never hold the dolly behind the bit you are hitting unless you are trying to stretch the metal.

 

Always hold it beside where you are hitting as a support.

 

Once you have the metal where you need it bring out the bog to make it real smooth.

 

You only get what you pay for with bog, never buy k+h anything! My bog is $65 for 4 kg.

 

Then you need spot putty, i use dolphin 2 pack high viscosity.

 

 

 

I pretty much regret doing this to my car because of the time it has taken, the whole car would have been painted by now, and ready for assembly,

 

so be aware of the work involved before you begin, as there is no turning back once you start.

 

cheers~matt

[SLO-030]

You only get what you pay for with bog, never buy k+h anything! My bog is $65 for 4 kg.

 

Then you need spot putty, i use dolphin 2 pack high viscosity.

 

+1 on both points.

 

Dolphin glaze high viscosity FTW!

 

Anyway, looking really good matt. Love the detail going into every aspect of the car :lolcry:

[Crowie55]

That engine bay looks great, so much attention to detail; keep it up.

[Des]

I love the amount of time and effort you have been puting in to the engine bay, Mad skills.

[smurf]

looking good mate can't wait till its all finished, Maken me wanna get a move on with my project.

The time and the effort you have put in will be worth it.

[greenmac80]

you worried about the strength of the bay? all that panel beating and stuff flattening out the ripples is actually reducing the strength.. all those bumps and ripples etc.

are what help to keep everything strong?

 

either way its lookin bloody awesome i saw this car in an 'in the build' section in zoom i think? or fast fours can't remember.

[beerhead]

I would have thought you'd be work hardening the metal. By heating the metal to cherry red and hitting with a hammer you're aligning the crystal of the metal, just like drop forging.

 

So the metal becomes less elastic and more crystalline. So for its handling aspect it'll be more ridgid, but in a crash situation less energy will be absorbed under the compression from the force of the impact. That said, wouldn't most of the strength of the front end in the chassis rails?

[Evan G]

your updates bring all the boys to the yard!

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

Thanks guys. Been putting some time into everything but this atm.

 

The only thing i have done is attempt to fit the dash in the car, but i failed to realise that it needs to be cut around the cage.

 

I made the cuts with a holesaw and grinder, the passenger side turned out perfect, the drivers side was not quite as tight, but still ok.

 

So, time for some more paint...... :cool:

 

 

you worried about the strength of the bay? all that panel beating and stuff flattening out the ripples is actually reducing the strength.. all those bumps and ripples etc.

are what help to keep everything strong?

 

The strength of the bay is in the upper and lower rails, in between is coke can metal.

 

What i have actually removed is ripples, and press marks. These are designed to remove excess metal from the process in which they take a flat sheet, and attempt to press it into a complex shape.

Also the heat used to shrink metal is much less than that used to weld,

so when you seam weld a car, are you increasing strength or reducing it?

 

cheers~matt

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

The c4 to sr20 bellhousing adaptor arrived from the usa.

 

bought a new spraygun for undercoat and all that.

 

cut the dash around the roll cage, i painted the dash first then realized i had to do this, always the way. Its a real neat fit now.

 

 

Some of the 'new old stock' bits i have managed to track down, not cheap, but so nice!

 

 

 

 

 

Also a roll of beige carpet for interior bits.

 

and my hurst shifter

Edited October 10, 2010 by oh what a nissan feeling!

[JDM55]

hahah gota love the fresh parts ,good work mate looks like things are coming together well for you :happy:

[_FNQ_rolla_]

The c4 to sr20 bellhousing adaptor arrived from the usa.

 

I would like to see this when it is all bolted up (hopefully before it is in the car)

 

Keep up the great work

[e3469]

i want to Install Nissan SR20DET in my corolla KE35. please can u tell me can SR20DET will install in my KE35 or not or i shall look for other Engine...

 

If SR20DET can be Swap then what changes i have to make in my KE35. do i have to change my Diff and gearbox.

 

 

u can mail me on my [email protected]

 

thanking you...