love ke70 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 nah waiting to hear what capacity i can go to. would be tempted with a small euro trash v8, or something euro. i dunno, i don't really wanna go back to a 4 cylinder, dunno what i would get which would be smooth but torquey and also rev well... which the 1g does sorta thing... and get the weight shifted back. got a lead on some easy to access corner scales, so gonna hopefully tomorrow corner weight it standard, then asap mash a mocked up 1g in the bay, add some weight at the front to mimic rad and intercooler, and see just how bad the weight is. if anyone has suggestions... gonna be turbo no matter what. spent most of today on the phone about roll cages, so that might actually happen rather quickly. expectation is over 23 metres of tube will go in. gotta speak to an engineer in the morning. and that light on the rear quarter is a parker light typea thing, comes on with the headlights... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7shades Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 GR series... You *should* be able to go up to 3000cc (3GR) N/A or 2500cc (4GR) boosted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 If i were you, and you had money to burn - i would find a rolled over Is250 Manual. GR V6 Yes please. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 anyone got info on builds of these motors, or what they can handle and what to expect to have to do to them? power figures for boost levels? weight? what box, if you say getrag 6 speed I'm gonna kick you in the face... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted June 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) ok. so car is going quite well. motor is very good, advanced the timing, goes a shit load better than it did. auto has managed to leak enough fluid that theres spray all the way up the back of it. glad i degreased that for rego :blinks: amazing it passed lol i put in 1500ml this morning, drove from yatala to molendinar, and on the way back it was slipping from lack of fluid again. other than that i can't fault it really. I have found an engineer thats going to approve everything I'm doing, including a weld in 6 point structural roll cage. so it will have more than 6 points. will brace strut towers, have connections along the A and B pillars, the seats will get mounted to the cage, with the harnesses, and in the rear it will be built with the provision for coilovers to connect up to it in the future, or at least, it will be kept in mind during the construction stage. Cage will be built by Luke at turboshop. We will start it ASAP, ive just gotta pull my finger out getting the 1g in the bay and getting it weighed again. On friday i took the car over the public weighbridge for my own interests sake, and also to get a certificate for the engineer, so we could decide what capacity engine is acceptable. was surprised for it to come in at 960 KG with a full tank of fuel and the spare. only thing missing was the rear seats, thought it would be more, considering the 3Tc is no light weight, has a bigger diff in it than Aus corollas, bigger struts etc. reason for weighbridge ticket is cause its an import theres no listing for the car in the QLD transport book to look at a recognised weight. so that means 2.4 is the biggest turbo motor i can go with. i then went up to fulcrum suspension and got the car corner weighted, firstly to measure axle weight, and secondly for a rough idea on vehicle balance. http://robrobinette.com/corner_weight.htm that link has some good info on corner weighting, and has the link to the spreadsheet I'm using, with some good basic info on corner weighting a car, worth a read for those interested in handling. first graph here is without me in the car, the cross weight is good in my opinion for a 30 year old car. I then hopped in, and as you can see, it through the cross weight out a bit, but actually slightly improved front to rear weight which is a promising sign, considering i want to be able to move the seat back more than it does now, and the main hoop is going to be well back from the point the seats bolt to, so that should put a good bit of weight toward the rear. so the plan is, to finish gutting the wagon ive got in the shed at the moment, then say bye bye to the 3t and auto and diff, put my diff, W57 and 1G in the car, with the old crossmember from the white car, just dummy up a motor, block and head, manifolds with a couple of bolts, sit a turbo on, probably just sit a weight at the front for the intercooler, cause i think mick from ipswich still has the cooler and my new rad, so I'm gonna ahev to get onto him about that :yes: move the battery to the boot and whatever else. then ill take the car back to fulcrum, redo the corner weights, and see just how much worse this setup makes the balance. once i have those figures i can decide whether to install the cage and weigh again and see whats happened, or if its really bad, decide then and there to make it better by shifting hte motor back, or changing motors. so yeah, thats the plan :) Edited June 4, 2011 by love ke70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7shades Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) Now granted, I may be slightly biased in my appreciation of Swedish bricks, but... If perfecto weight distribution, >2400cc and boost is what you're after, then I may have the solution... http://www.garaget.org/?car=88483 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvdiA1YcQjM That thurrr be a Volvo B5234T, generating 500HP and 640Nm. (Has run 700HP @ 2.0 bar) Edit: If you went for a slightly older B230 based engine, you'd have even more weight to the right to counterbalance yo ass. Still well over 550hp with this setup http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=63106 Edited June 4, 2011 by 7shades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted June 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 hmm, interesting, 5 cylinders...that would turn some heads. only had a quick look around, looking like custom bell housing and turning to suit RWD might have alook around for weights... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 If perfecto weight distribution, >2400cc and boost is what you're after, then I may have the solution... http://www.garaget.org/?car=88483 hmm, interesting, 5 cylinders...that would turn some heads. only had a quick look around, looking like custom bell housing and turning to suit RWD might have alook around for weights... There's an orange Audi A4 called the 'General Lee' floating around out there on youtube, I believe it's running a similar setup with this engine? Like the content in 7shades post, the noise made me shiver! :yes: It'd turn heads, snap necks & rearrange internal organs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Doesnt Dubrolles ke70 have a 5 cylinder Volvo turbo engine setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7shades Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Yep... That blue one is the first incarnation of it, its now completely rebuilt and white Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 so that means 2.4 is the biggest turbo motor i can go with. 2azfte? It'd be the lightest way to get 2.4 litres boosted in a ke70. I think its good for up to 400hp fairly reliably. In hp per litre its not super amazing, but in hp/kg of motor its astounding. I'm having a bh made anyhow, could always have 2 made. Its no longer or heavier than a 4age, 75mm taller overall and with a small front sump. Needs lots of custom work (sump, inlet and exhaust manifolds) but the cooling and electrical systems would rwd fine. Only has vvti on the inlet cam, so not too difficult to tune, has good aftermarket support and cheap performance parts, good rods around $500 US dollars, its a bit cheaper than a 4age to buy internals for. BC Stroker kits available to go to 2.7 litres if you want heaps of grunt. Its a big task but I'm doing it just to see if its as nice as I hope. I figure it wont upset the car as I'm used to driving it, but will make the same power as a stock 4agze at a bare minimum, with no boost required. With boost it would be a monster. You can buy built race motors from the US for around $4500US. If perfecto weight distribution, >2400cc and boost is what you're after, then I may have the solution... That thurrr be a Volvo B5234T, generating 500HP and 640Nm. (Has run 700HP @ 2.0 bar) Edit: If you went for a slightly older B230 based engine, you'd have even more weight to the right to counterbalance yo ass. Still well over 550hp with this setup. Dubrolle has a version of this motor doesnt he? Looks pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love ke70 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 thanks for the tips on motors, we shall see what happens :) today i got stuck into the corolla, after stripping out an old wagon over the weekend and losing a couple of days. On Monday i swapped diffs on the 2 door, and got my alfa diff in, have rotated the thingy that the brakes bolt to,the word escapes me, that bolts to the end of the axle housing, rotated that 180* so instead of the brakes being at the bottom back of the rotor, theyre not at the top front, which is basically where they should ahve always have been, but it wasnt setup this way when i got the car, and i didnt think to do it until we rebuilt the diff. this means the brake lines wont have to be squashed in behind the shock anymore, and also means the handbrake cables run exactly as standard, which means the handbrake cables i have had made previously are now too long...dammit. hopefully i can get them shortened :) then yeserday pulled motor, box and struts started this morning with this so i started by going back to the old game of playing with the ra65 steering arms and putting them on the wrong sides, not sure if its gonna work, will have to see how the car sits once the weights on the front, but I'm not too hopeful, which is a shame. i put my coilovers in, with the 2 doors strut tops, cause the bolt pattern is different, so gonna have to order some adjustables. then i put my crossmember in, without the rack obviously, still running the steering box etc, which means the draglink hits one mount for the rack, but owell, its only for a dummy run to weigh and do cage. then i started on assembly a dummy motor, by the afternoon i had this and then i had to go buy some gearbox bolts, (why do they always seem to be the ones you can't find? :glare: ) and bolted the box on with no clutch, cause that it seems has vanished in the flood, so twin plate is looking more promising. and with some wrangling and some good help from the old man, we managed to get the motor in the bay, with the box attached, without dropping the crossmember, just had to take intake manifold off and tilllttttt the motor :) What i was very happy with was this the rad fits ! which was a serious drama back in the day. thats the standard rad out of the car, considerably bigger than a ke70 one though. core size is 565x320x30 and as you can see, ive cut the third ring off the harmonic balancer, but the bolt still sticks out, i could probably run a full balancer by the looks of what i have there, but i wouldnt get the motor in the bay with a full one on, so if i swap it, it will be once the motors back in. i have 35mm between the end of that bolt and the rad, so a thicker core is an option, and thats everything still inside the front rails. my old gearbox crossmember from the white car, is completely off, the angles are out, the holes are in the wrong spot etc, so ive got one bolt in that, and a strap poking up through the shifter hole with a screwdriver through it, to stop the box falling out. Luke at turboshop can do me a new crossmember before he does the cage, I'm sure he will have something very trick in mind :cool: the one drama i do have, is quite a biggie. intake manifold, it does not fit! :( so ive got 2 options i think RHD conversion....gheyy or, remote booster and master cylinder, which i need to look into, but it seems doable, maybe even under the dash to keep the bay clean, but I'm not sure how well that works, how legal it is, and how hard it will be. if anyone has any knowledge about remote boosters and stuff id love to hear it :) at the moment I'm thinking of remote mounting booster, and fabing the brake pedal, so i can move the master cylinder over 50mm, and bolt it to the firewall still, i can't imagine offsetting the top end of the brake and clutch pedal so i can move the masters over 50mm of so would be too hard, opinions? tomorrow ill finish getting all the basics in the car, take it to be weighed, and get it down to luke to start the cage, friday i need to load my gear for work, and saturday I'm off to the races, leave sunday morning for a fortnight working in carnarvon gorge. so I'm gonna need my speedy shoes on tomorrow i think! cheers guys :) andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Spewing about the Intake. Maybe get a custom plenum fabbed up? RB styles? Everything else is looking great man, Loving the LHD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy-d Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 what about the tilden (i think thats what there called) race pedal set up that has the masters mounted to them under the dash with remote reservoirs and a remote booster behind a guard or similiar?You may even be able to reverse mount off the original pedal assembly with a bit of fab.I know someone here did a reverse mount for the clutch master on a ke70 original manual cable pedal assembly so maybe it could be done with the brake master too,just a thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Man youre flying along, nice work. There is a big rumour out there at the moment that QLD is getting ncop really soon, so if its a 6 point you',re putting in make sure you've lined up someone to sign it off. From what I'm aware of remote boosters can only do one cicuit? Personally i would go with a custom plenum, would just be so easy, and pretty cost effective too once you've explored the other options. Most of the hotrods run a under dash booster setup, Its a heap of custom work though. I could definately obtain more info and pics on it though if you decided to go that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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