Jaydnisevil Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Re-located the boost bleeder yet again :P Iv moved the gauge tap in to the manifold itself opposed to the turbo, its not very useful to know what kind of pressure is being put out, but not when its arriving or how much is reaching the engine. Iv got a fitting and ran it off the booster line (Before check valve) Manifold is now ready for plate to be welded on Which will eventually looks something like Yet this remains my biggest issue Clearance... and thats not even closed.. First click and its ALMOST hitting, with no room for a turbo hat. I'm going to use a dropsaw and cut a section of the legs out at a 30deg slice (So it will sit verticality countering the bank of the engine) The first step is to find a saw as ours is only for wood :( Ohh and bought a exhaust flange and flexi, so will continue that when I rip the downpipe out next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Why not just run the factory inlet manifold and avoid all the clearance issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Why not just run the factory inlet manifold and avoid all the clearance issues? Turbo location.. New manifold was necessary. And as origional plan was suck through I wanted to keep all pipes as short as possible to counteract the TB being further away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velekas Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Would be easier to mod a single side draft weber and loop your manifold over the top of the rocker cover. Reading back i see you had the intention of using a draw thru set up, now that you have changed to blow through would you have started with a different type of exhaust manifold/turbo design? Also where are you thinking of putting your bov? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer[RL] Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Don't buy a new drop saw just change the blade and use some WD40. So let me get a understanding of this, It goes inter-cooler-> Turbo -> Plenum with your Carby sitting on it like that -> Engine ?????? Never knew you could do it like that. Edit : Got it Inter-cooler -> Turbo -> Through Carby -> Engine. Edited July 17, 2011 by Spencer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Would be easier to mod a single side draft weber and loop your manifold over the top of the rocker cover. Reading back i see you had the intention of using a draw thru set up, now that you have changed to blow through would you have started with a different type of exhaust manifold/turbo design? Also where are you thinking of putting your bov? Well the problem is you need to find a side-draft designed for blowthrough.. The DGV webers had all the vents inside the mouth of the carby, so you can just use a hat opposed to encasing the whole carburettor. yeaa more or less, didnt want to have a long J-pipe have a turbo hanging around and then having the downpipe being more complex than it had to be etc. When you move the throttlebody away from the motor, you loose throttle response. Wanted to make sure that at least the turbo would spin up quickly. Granted originally the plan was to make an exhaust manifold as well. Ill buy one later, not a necessity. I can place it anywhere on the cooler pipes. Don't buy a new drop saw just change the blade and use some WD40. So let me get a understanding of this, It goes inter-cooler-> Turbo -> Plenum with your Carby sitting on it like that -> Engine ?????? Never knew you could do it like that. Edit : Got it Inter-cooler -> Turbo -> Through Carby -> Engine. Looked into that, but the saws not designed for metal, and I really don't want to ruin my dads saw :P He has a proper metal one at work as far as I know, if he didn't I would just change the blade. Worst case, ill take it to an exhaust joint and ask them to chop chop :) Nooo lol, its a normal setup. Having the IC before the turbo will do jack shit, you'd be attempting to cool atmospheric temps with atmospheric temperature air :P Turbo -> Cooler -> Carby -> Manifold -> Engine Edited July 17, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer[RL] Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 I've read that a weber 40 dcoe can handle up to 8psi of boost through it with just a upgraded float ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 (edited) I've read that a weber 40 dcoe can handle up to 8psi of boost through it with just a upgraded float ... Read or seen? Alot of talk on forums, often like chinese whispers. I just want to steer clear of housing up a carby, youd probably loose alot of flow if its not designed well. Well iv decided to sit at 12psi for now, the float should be more than up to it :) Iv ordered my reg and pump, so now we wait :) Edited July 18, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twinky Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 It's not just the floats and vents you have to worry about when sealing up a carbie, the main reason most carbies have to totally covered is because sealing throttle shafts are damn near impossible. Some seal kits are available but mainly for Holley carbs. I tried getting some seal kits for Webbers but the bloke at the shop said don't bother as they are getting so rare and expensive you might as well buy a carb suited to turbo because even with the seal kits they don't guarante a 100% seal. He told me if you want a turbo car just go out and buy one..... But what would be the fun in that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 It's not just the floats and vents you have to worry about when sealing up a carbie, the main reason most carbies have to totally covered is because sealing throttle shafts are damn near impossible. Some seal kits are available but mainly for Holley carbs. I tried getting some seal kits for Webbers but the bloke at the shop said don't bother as they are getting so rare and expensive you might as well buy a carb suited to turbo because even with the seal kits they don't guarante a 100% seal. He told me if you want a turbo car just go out and buy one..... But what would be the fun in that? Well you don't really need 100% seal, a minuscule amount of air isn't going to matter. With these engines, we are just making the best of a bad situation. Can you justify spending that amount of money on this motor? Why not just put it towards a SR20. If you want a fool proof system you have to go EFI, there is no which way around it. Haha true, half the enjoyment is doing things yourself :) I can justify spending money on this car, not because I think it will be a machine.. But because I enjoy the project :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Well you don't really need 100% seal, a minuscule amount of air isn't going to matter. With these engines, we are just making the best of a bad situation. a minisule amount of air that contains unburnt fuel, coming out right next to your hot exhaust.... i think that will matter. thats called a bomb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 (edited) a minisule amount of air that contains unburnt fuel, coming out right next to your hot exhaust.... i think that will matter. thats called a bomb! The consensus from the few experienced people I have spoken to was: On the webers, So long as the bushes/seals aren't worn its not going to be an issue. I will keep an eye on it, and work from there (replacing seals or an alternative solution. Iv got bigger fish to fry at this stage :) If it all becomes too much, ill just whack it together and start saving for the new engine :) One bit of advice for anybody going down the FI path... if you want simplicity, just go with a draw through supercharger! The lobes are sealed somewhat by the fuel, and you don't have to worry about any bullshit :P The only disadvantage is you can't adjust the boost pressure easily. Edited July 18, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 ....or just find a carbon sealed turbo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 ....or just find a carbon sealed turbo! Haha well yes but still a supercharger has much less hassles. No J-pipes, no oil supply, oil drain, coolant lines or no downpipe etc.. The only thing you have to do is get a multi vee crank pulley and size it correctly (Plenty of programs to do that, I have one on my external HDD) Still something cool about having a turbola though :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velekas Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 You don't need to encase most of your carbs?? I'm using factory aisan carbs with a top hat and putting 14psi through them and they don't leak or anything, just have to pressurise the bowl etc etc. Also its been bought up and I'm going to have to agree with Taz_rx t25=perfect. I run a decompressurised 4k (non lugged head with dished pistons) and my t25 spools up at 3.2k rpm and makes power all the way to 7g. Anything slightly smaller than that would run outa puff and you don't really want it spooling lower as i almost make boost cruising at 100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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