Hi,

I was just wondering has anyone on this list done battery relocation to the boot?

If they have will it be possible to shed some light on this issue like how and where they run the wire what gauge they used and so on. And if possible some pictures?

 

Cameron

Run the wire under the car, not inside it. :laff:

i used 25mm squared wire, not sure what gauge that is. I ran it to a battery isolater switch, which i mounted on the dash. I ran mine inside the car, and used bushing around any holes it went through.

Hi,

Just been googling this topic and found some guys run the wire in or out i is just what ever you prefer adn some run it to a bar then jump power off hte bar to other places. But I was woundering where some of you guys have run the wire have you run just to starter than alternator or to other places as well.

Also do you have a pic of your isolator swich in your dash? and How long did it take you to do this project and did you buy a kit or 100% DIY-it?

 

Cameron

They first paragraph of your second post (#4) is hard to read. As the rules state, they don't charge by the letter so can you please take the time to write it out properly and proof read it??

simple mate

battery in a box in boot

earth it to a bolt in the chassis rail if possible...usually the ones that bolt the towbar on work a treat

then power cable thru to dash with big red funky lookin killswitch

out other side of killswitch to starter

then you have the wire from the starter to the alternator

alot of my shit comes off the alternator rather than the battery.

its hardly a project...more a weekend thing :laff:

yeah I've done it, I now have turbo were my battery used to be.

 

used 4 guage I think wire runs inside the car pretty under the carpet next to the door sill.

 

at the engine bay end, everything that used to attache to the + terminal is now into a fuse block and just ran the wire from the battery to the other end of that. I also hid all of the wiring on that side of the engine bay through the guard as there is hot piping there now.

you can see the fuse in this pic behind the washer bottle. btw you want at least 300amps if you use a fuse.

 

also, if you want to buy one of those battery boxes, get it from a marine store NOT AUTOBARN etc, you will be shocked how much the price can vary for the same thing.

autobarn - $25+

marine shop - $12!!!!

Errm....why don't you have the fuse closer to the battery?

Whatever you do be sure to run an earth as well as an active the entire length of the car. yep.

Hi,

Thanks for the information so far.

I plan to run an earth from the battery to the chassis of the car or a good solid metal point and then add earths on the motor and more just to be safe.

But Taz_rx your right about battery boxes at a local marine shop were $14 autobarn wanted $21 and it wasn't even a sealed one and looked pretty crap so you were right.

 

Also I always though fuse closest to the battery? I see Taz_rx yours in in the engine bay any reason for this?

Also why fuse your starter don't you want maximum power going to it?

 

Thanks

Cameron

its there more as a power distro point rather than for its fuse capabilities, it was just an easy way to connect the incoming power to the 3-4 wires that are normally connected to the battery termainal.

 

the starter motor still gets "max power", as I only have a 260cca battery at the moment and have a 300amp fuse.

fuse (300A or so) should be as close to the battery as possible.

It's there to blow if the cable gets damaged anywhere and shorts to the chassis.

 

If you put your battery in the boot, be sure and vent the box to atmosphere somewhere - or run a sealed battery (that's my plan).

 

Currently doing this to the 25 - built a terminal block out of a lump of wood (inelegant but functional) that I installed in the engine bay. Original battery lead connects to this.

 

photos later if you're interested.

 

slapper

photos later if you're interested.

 

somebody was just crazy enough to ask for a photo!

 

 

The orange lead comes from the battery in the boot.

The other lead is what remains of the original that was attached to the +ve battery terminal.

The two "terminal" bolts are very counter-sunk on the other side so they don't short to the chassis ... the countersunk holes are also full of epoxy. I made the countersink holes small enough that the bolt heads are a very tight fit as I can't get a spanner to them to tighten them up once it's all fitted.

The screws that mount the block to the car are also well countersunk to reduce the risk of shorts.

 

The lump of metal bridging the two bolts is a lump of 2 mm steel that I had lying around.

 

cheers,

Slapper

hey... for size of cable... i'd recommend prob 2 B&S... mainly because of the fact of how far it has to run from rear to front.

u can refer to narva website for current ratings etc. http://www.narva.com.au/Terminals_26.html

 

and if this is same car with alt upgrade run prob 6 B&S between alt and starter

 

as for fuses/circuit breakers u may struggle to find one of around 250 Amps, if not just run the main cable in conjuit tubing and make sure its not goin to rub through anywhere, and just fuse whatever comes off starter/alternator

My Cricket;

I ran the cable under the carpet between 2 layers of padding close to the tunnel. No problems as yet