Jump to content

parrot

Global Moderator
  • Posts

    3071
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    79

parrot last won the day on July 19 2024

parrot had the most liked content!

2 Followers

About parrot

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne
  • Real Name
    Pete

Recent Profile Visitors

25472769 profile views

parrot's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges

166

Reputation

  1. Well I have a good home for a KE1x working heater tap, and a KE20 centre dash drop down map light 🙂
  2. The for sale section was removed some time ago. I understand it was creating numerous issues for the moderators and wasn’t worth perservering with. As you will have seen, facebook is swamped with scammers. We don’t need that here
  3. Float level? Have you checked the diaphragm? Back in the day we would switch the spring to the other side of the diaphagm so the secondary was always open.
  4. I wouldn't be able to pass that tree without climbing to the top
  5. These are from the KE18 parts book and should tell you what you have/is missing/how to put it back together.
  6. I've got three or four heater taps in various states of disrepair, the idea being the same as you. But i've never seen one apart before. Very interesting. I missed out on a NOS one about 5 years ago, and have never seen another. Pete recommended a Tru flow heater tap TFT4008. He said he fits it under the air cleaner. They vary from $25 to $60 (repco). Anyway its an option. I had the idea of stroking my original K-B block to keep the numbers, by putting a 3K crank in it. On assembly I discovered that's a no no, as the 3K block is actually a few mm higher, confirmed in a booklet I got from Japan. My K block was pretty corroded internally, and the spare 3K block i had was quite a bit better so probably a blessing in disguise. Although of course that needed to be prepared so more $$
  7. The "coolant bypass valve" is the heater tap. I'm spending a lot of time trying to find one that works, though Peter Robinson put me onto an aftermarket option that fits elsewhere. I still want an original one though.
  8. Well that was a bad mistake, considering I owned 3 Datsun 1600's in the mid 80's!
  9. I hate A.I. What A.I.can't do is context. Overhead cam engines were never a consideration at the time in this class of vehicle. Unless you could stump up three times as much for an alfa, and you can't consider a Ford twin cam as mainstream. I think the first volume overhead cam engine cam with the pinto?
  10. How can someone not get excited looking at that engine.
  11. Absolutely replace. This guy is good. https://www.ebay.com.au/str/zaccsbearings?_trkparms=folent%3Azaccsbearings|folenttp%3A1&_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l74602
  12. You need to determine how much power you reasonably expect, and what you are going to do with the car. There are tables with widths of various Toyota rear ends, but there is no reason why you need to stick with Toyota. I think you will find references to skyline diffs as well, though I don't know if that's a good thing. Shortening a diff is not as simple as you might think either. And it will need conversion to leaf springs, plus you will want a panhard rod. And you will need disc brakes. The car will clearly need engineering. And you really should look for something with an LSD or ability to swap an LSD in. As Altezzaclub mentions you also need to try to minimise unnecessary weight. Is a T series 6.7 inch centre / axles going to cope with what you will throw at it? What width wheels/tyres are you planning to use. Will you be able to fit them under the car? Probably anything with a larger diff centre will be significantly wider than a Ke55. Needs to be factored into overall width. And a larger tyre footprint will place additional load on the centre & axles. So it's complicated. If I was you, I would consider above, then go into a diff place and tell them what you want, and see what they can build for you off the shelf. Probably cheaper than sourcing a differential unit yourself and converting it. Then go back to your engineer and see what they are willing to sign off.
  13. You don't want any audible clicking. But you want slight movement. It's hard to describe but I think you will know when you have it right. No movement, bad. Clicking - bad. fractional side movement - good.
  14. I had to look up what a 2ZZGE & GT2871R were. Shows you my brain stopped in about 1994. It seems a promising bit of kit. We can't hang onto 2TG's/18RG's/4AGE's for ever although clearly I am. But perhaps I'm older than you. 10 years from now everyone will be talking ZZ's I expect.
  15. There's a BEAMS AE86 page on facebook. A guy on there, Glenn Booth probably knows more about 3SGE's than anyone on the planet. He's in Melbourne but may have an idea on how to source what you are after. He races an RA45 with a highly modified BEAMs
×
×
  • Create New...