Super Jamie

yeah but i know most of the main rollaclub members well enough to be able to tell wether they're full of crap or not :greenbounce: big forums you can hide behind a name and say whatever you want

australia got a TE72 but for some reason toyota called it a T18

puh lease i have big my99/00 and evo 4/5 envy. with an easy 200kw at the wheels and suspension, you could do under a minute around QR, that's only a few seconds off twin turbo v8 cobras

it's not fun hey. i am scared of ignition leads now

same could be said about the whole of pf :D

probably. look in the dba catalog

i liked your old ones better :D

holy crap how much fun does that look!!! the driftfun bimmers rock, how good is the one with the cage in it, big long wheelbase to do good looking drifts too :D i love the vitara, that's so funny to see drift have a look at driftfun.com, they have some cool videos. including initial d "real location" videos? interesting, downloading now

33m/sec. the car wasn't already braking then? this guy was going to throttle steer a 240 around a cliff corner at 120km/h?

stock springs will happily hit 9000rpm, however from what i have seen they will wear out fairly quickly. so unless you feel like doing your head gasket every year, hd springs are a good investment

fair enough. i've never been there so i don't know :D still, the car could have been built a bit safer. like i said on PF, i'm just a stupid kid with a corolla, and i have 2 return springs :/

exactly. let's not all blame the carbs. espeically this guy, wtf?

the above suggestion of ditching the twins in favour of a single 32/36, i would not do that. i actually have both a 32/36 and twincarbs, and i'm choosing the twins. you need airspeed

oh, cool, my bad :D you know there are twincarb manifolds without the water galleries too yeah? i've seen one with my own eyes

not every ego sensor has the same output though. if you want to build your own EGO, do some googling on "diy wideband" or "diy_wb" or similar. there are certain sensors the jaycar kit works exactly right for, others you need an efi car or known good ego to calibrate the sensor with vdo gauges are good quality and not as high priced as the other brand name stuff, if you're after accurate gauges on a budget then they're the way to go. if you must have the full bling bling dash, then get autometer or speco or whatever else brand name they sell at autobarn. the more you buy at once in a pack, the cheaper they are electronic is the only way to go. it's illegal to run any line from the engine bay into your dash, and there's the obvious danger of having hot engine oil circulating around inside, not to mention it would be f@$king messy if the line breaks i have a mechanical vac gauge, i think this is illegal but not as unsafe as an oil pressure line so i don't mind

look seriously, i don't want to offend anyone and car crashes are bad and i do hope nobody gets hurt but in "20-30 metres", an experienced rally driver didn't think to push the clutch, or pop neutral, and brake into the corner properly? the choice between a f@$ked motor or flying off a cliff at 120+km/h isn't exactly a difficult one. webers were the catalyst for this accident, not the cause of it sorry

you need to use the original strut top no matter what, or make an adjustable one, or buy one into a ke20 or ke70 you may have issues with spring diameter if converting from a larger car. you will need steering arms with the same hole pattern as the struts you are putting in, there's a strut guide in the tech section of toycrazy.net you'll also need to upgrade the brake master cylinder and rear discs? pfft. when you can tell us why you need them, then it's worth spending the money on. i seriously think most people just read about them and want them for shiny factor

yes i realised this too, fantastically accurate movie :D ah f@$k this congratulations, you both are equally as fast and equally as furious as each other. you have nos, you had it last night, and you had two of the big ones. you live your lives a quarter mile at a time, and you have raced for pink slips and won. and you have run one into mia multiple times, i'll let you argue over who gets soggy seconds :P pm me your postal addresses and you both get CDs with car movies on them, when i get my tv computer back from my friends house, probably after this weekend :S

doing it from scratch you'd need to spend alot more than a grand :D that will get you a decent head and a set of bearings and gaskets seriously, i think bigport heads, and 3k heads in general are overrated. most are that old now they're f@$ked and rusty. you need to spend cash getting new valve guides, valve seats recut, rust welded up, maybe helicoils fixed. for the amount of money you can spend to have a stock 3k bigport, you could have taken your current 4k head off and got the shit worked out of it with a proper port job and bigger valves, which is going to shit all over a 3k bigport if i did my motor again, no way i'd bother with the bigport

i think anything bigger than 2" over stock looks stupid. so 15" on a ke70. you can also legally only go to 6" wide or 6.5" if you're in vic i think a decent set of 15s with 195/50/15 rubber would be sweet. i've seen it done, it works well

import :D use 4k pushrods, as the block is taller on a 4k

as far as i know and i may be wrong, there is no such thing as "just a 4K". -C means californian emissions, aka that huge mass of spaghetti shit most of your engine bays started out with you may have a flattop 4K-C, or a dished piston 4K-U or 4K-E bottom end with australian 4K-C carburettor on it. (you may also have some other carb, it just depends what someone had laying around at the time. my 4k-c runs a 3k-b head and 3k-h carb, which actually makes a decent attempt at an emissions system) unfortunately, the only way to tell the engines is to look at the pistons. wind #1 to tdc and feel around the spark plug hole with a wooden skewer. there are two different types of dish, doug knows more about this than i do this does happen people. i know an engine builder in town who brought in about 12 4K-E motors in the 1990s to sell to people who killed their corollas. he threw away "all that fuel injection rubbish". lucky even scrounged the scrap metal yards for the efi systems, but i think we were years too late 3Ks are different, as some of them didn't have to conform to emissions standards as they are pre-ADR (and pre-emissions elsewhere). there is K, K-B, K-C, 3K, 3K-C, 3K-H, probably a few different 2Ks as well. i have them in a yellow book somewhere. don't worry about them for the purposes of this exercise

i'd be interested to see how you'd fit a K series engine to an A series engine full stop. 2.9L straight 8? in a ke3x/5x, there are two sets of crossmember holes, you use one set for K gearbox and one set for T gearbox. from what i've seen underneath ke70, you use the K holes for all K gearboxes, and there is a different crossmember for auto or manual you sometimes need to enlarge the hole in the crossmember so the T50 gearbox fits, but that's not a huge issue i think if you mount the engine right, you can get the gearbox to bolt up. but that's pretty pointless as you need to custom tailshaft to go to an AE71/86 gearbox anyway, so mount the engine where you want, put a bigger diff in, THEN get your tailshaft shortened and resplined to suit

jap ke70. there's one at the wreckers near me, or there was 9 months ago or so