Super Jamie

hammers are plenty professional, and a required tool in a workshop attacking a customer's car with multigrips, however...

i'd say it should have COST 3 grand, and is worth about $650 :unsure:

ten slabs? fark thats like almost 400 bucks!

what an absolute heap of garbage. le30 sumitomo calipers are NOT twin piston

in all honesty, all the points you made are valid K engines are shit compared to As. i've never driven a datto so i can't comment on transmission. how is the gearing "better"? i also think toyota has far better exterior styling, and datsuns rust like a bitch

do mods with angle grinder

it's been said three times in this thread already. YES!

by the way, there's a bathurst (?) party on at matt's place sunday 10am

i probably won't drink. oh yeah, tell girl features that i'll make dinner :jamie: mmm spaghetti and garlic bread

don't even start on stopping power of drums vs width and fook's right, you'd need a custom axle so the flange is longer to accomodate the extra drum width. it would be alot of engineering for very little return. you can bolt ke55/ta22 drums and backing plates to ke30 axles, that's about it

it looked more like a hilux/4runner ripoff to me

car work will be 7am saturday, mostly matt welding and me... i dunno :( should probably put stock singlecarb back on and repack and tighten front wheel bearings. that's farken early so i can understand if you don't make it apparently there's a gathering at my house saturday night lol :blinks: should probably visit my friends tonight, been neglecting them. my drinking mate gaz is too poor to drink tonight so that's off. all good, i get to save money too then :jamie:

if you need a new clutch cable let me know, the one from my ke25 is genuine toyota ($120) and only a few months old

i dunno about sizes, but ae86 discs have a hole in the actual disc hat, and the thread is in the hub. opposite to corollas. the flange is also only a few mm thick at that point, so you couldn't even tap it enough to hold onto a ke corolla hub reliably. the rotor bolt pcd is also different

only fives hey, i was not aware of this :jamie: i was hoping to keep with steelies either way, "factory alloys" would just make insurance more difficult. i'm stinging it with this car

oil leaking onto the clutch? that's generally not good. perhaps it's time to change your rear main seal the circlip is supposed to be 5 deviations from the firewall. a deviation is a part of the adjustment that either goes up or down, so one channel is 2 deviations (as it goes down-up like this ¯|_|¯)

ae86 brakes don't bolt to ke1/2/3/5/7 corolla stuff. nowhere near it. and the strut base is a different pattern, so you can't just bolt in ae86 struts either hey you just reminded me i have aussie ae86 struts with brakes in the garage, and ae86 power steer arms from new zealand. well how about that, there's my van's brake upgrade :jamie:

not really. mazdas are alot heavier than corollas, and the fact that they had rotary crossover models (eg: r100 = 1000/1300, rx3 = 808, rx4 = 929, etc) makes it alot easier to put a chook cooker in one than a corolla most states allow you to smuggle a naturally aspirated 12a into an oldrolla, and no more. and you can't even do that to a ke20 in nsw, or a ke25 anywhere! ps: 808s had a sohc 1400

agreed. i want rt104 steelies and some decent 185/60/14s for my panelvan

how's the tuck on THAT! :jamie:

i can imagine me meeting him. it would be much like the alice cooper "we're not worthy" scene from wayne's world i wouldnt bother with a dgv, they're god awful carbs, one step above stock aisans. still, lots of bits to tune and everything dyno said is pretty much spot on if you're going to spend the money and effort, i would stick with sidedrafts or SUs

hahahahahaha :jamie:

jdmtyte. what a word :jamie: :(

i would be inclined to kit any second hand calipers i bought unless i was well aware of their history for the past several years. the ability of your car to stop is worth lots more than 50 bucks, a couple of hours of time, and a bit of brake fluid. cheap insurance really

a pair of seal kits should set you back 50 bucks. piston ring seal, rubber caps for sliders, new high tensile bridge bolts. i used to have a part number, but any brake shop should be able to look them up for you, just look under ke70 get some graphite grease (aka: engine assembly lube) to lubricate the moving sliders with the only thing that really goes wrong with the calipers is that the pistons rust around where they're supposed to seal against the ring. i believe you can buy new pistons, but you would be cheaper to just buy whole ke70s off ebay and steal the brakes off them, then re-sell them you need to shave 1.2mm off a single db1088 (vn commodore) pad to make it a db1086 (ke70) pad girlock calipers also give you a wider selection of wheels, as they don't have that stupid pokey out fin that the sumitomo calipers have. the wheels on my ke25 required spacers with sumitomos, but bolted onto hub with girlocks fyi, you can just cut that fin off if you like, cafee's done it to his ke30 for wheel clearance. i can't remember what akebono calipers look like