Taz_Rx

no

I agree with Red, its just not really needed for an NA K. I've got my sandwich plate and cooler, just haven't got around the hooking it up as I quite frankly don't really need it either. I have had oil temps up to around 130*C but this take a bit of flogging. Basically I'm only putting it in for piece of mind at track days etc. Oh and my oil cooler is proably about a third the size of that PWR.

To remove the whole dash its just a right prock of a job. There's bolts and screws you just can't get at that make life very difficult. The last car I removed a dash from was being wrecked so we just started getting aggressive with it and litterally tearing stuff out. :glare:

Ok, let assume you're going to use an aftermarket ecu of some sort. It would be a good idea if you got a fuel AND ignition ecu, so if you have control of your timing via this you won't need vac advance. You've got 2 main option. 1 - Single pulse triggering. You can do this with the elec dizzy, you get a pulse to the ecu that indicates when a piston is firing.... the ecu won't know which piston is firing mind you. For this reason you need to run banked injectors (all firing at once) and still use the dizzy cap to distrobute your spark. Then you've got dual pulse tirggering - This uses the bigger notch, or a dual notch that you were talking about earlier to tell the ECU were TDC is and then at least another 3 notches to indicate the other pistons firing. Remember though if you use a crank trigger then you need to configure that in the ecu as the crank turns twice for every full rotation of the motor.

Could be mate, sounds sort of like it could be the coulpret. Maybe time to look into a cheap elelctric pump like a facet or similar!?

Makes life easy if you ever need a turbo oil drain! :wink:

FYI - Leigh has a 4ke setup for sale in Launy at the moment. :wink: Does the setup have to be 'dual pulse' or would you be happy with 'single pulse' triggering? If so you can just use your elec dizzy for an input trigger. Thats what I'm currently using in my setup. Something else you might like to know is I actually have a custom dual pulse K series CAS that been made out of a K and aparently bluebird guts. So yeah remember crank triggering isn't just your only option. As for the ECU, it doesn't really matter what it is as long as its aftermarket and tunable. Before you start any mapping you just configure the ECU for the setup you're running. Restof your plans sound pretty good. :yes:

No its not. As I said above, the reverse switch is in the SIDE of the gearbox. The 4th and 5th gear indicators are in the top and are only single wire plugs.

What you leaning towards? Turbz or S/C?

Beofre you try anything else to get the tacho working, just try opening the point up a bit. :wink:

Much respect...... until I saw the Honda! JK man, nice cars. Whats with the crown around the wagon? Is there a munted front end amongst the crown?

The 85* - 80* would be 85 on, 80 off. Yeah agree, that probably a little low. Somethinbg 95-90 or 95-85 might be a bit better suited. They're a piece of piss to wire - Just do the usual relay with permanent and "on" power thing, then the outlet of the relay just goes to one of the terminals, then out of the other and into the fan +. You must have like a RX3/4/5 replacement PWR as they all had the oil cooler mounted from the bottom of the radiator.

Tank in the mazda is behind the seat too but we could get between that and the parcel shelf pretty easy. For the effort required to remove the seat I'd be trying it before I tak a hammer near my car. Its just 2x (probably 14mm) bolts that hold the loop on.

pretty obvious you haven't used this ....... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums :lock_folder:

You can swap to a ke55 style dash in a ke30 but its a whole lot more work than I would care the think about. Honestly a custom dash would be easier. Trying to convert the steering column to tilt would be about as easy as converting the rear suspension to coils.

The only wires you HAVE to really hook up to the box is the reverse light switch. As Towe001 said its the two wires with a 2 pin plug, and goes to the side of the gearbox. The other 1 or maybe 2 wires are 4th and 5th gear indicators (in the front top of the gearbox), yes they do get connected to the carby but are for modifying the mixture for highway cruising.

Now you've got a practically bullet proof driveline its about time you wound some more power out of that 7k!!! :jamie:

If its just a 2 pin plug in the rad then its probably just a pass-through style temp switch. Relayed power on one side, power to rad off the other. :wink: Oh and what K&N did you get 3.5" or 4.5"? I got a 4.5 for the mazda and couldn't close the bloody bonnet! :lolcry:

I lost the key for my mazda once. To get into the boot we ended up pulling out the back seat and using about a metres worth of socket extensions to unbolt the latch on the rear inside panel. KE55s have the latch on the boot lid but you could still unbolt the loop that it clicks into. :wink: Pull the lock barrel out and go get it coded to the key that works on the ignition.

pfft, clutches aren't essential in K series anyway. :lol: Its always a good idea to learn how to shift without it for the day when your clutch cable finally snaps.

Or you can also use a few washer to space the rubber block out from the firewall a bit. :wink:

Most people lower their cars by the 4-6cm dave mentioned. If you had compressed or cut springs (as we all know kings superlows are far from that) with a spacer below the shock the the springs won't be captive. Move that spacer to in between the top of the shock and the top of the strut tube and it'l pull the shock down, capturing the springs. Its the same deal with a coilover sleeve kit. You basically cut down the strut tube to suit the shock, then mount the coilover sleve in a position that suit this. You could do what you're suggesting with the spacer and not cut down the strut tube, but then you'd end up at stock height.

.....so you're springs aren't captive!?

The key word in that previous post was theoretically..... ie I take no responsiblity if it doesn't fit. If it doesn't then its not the sort of thing you can't sell on anyways.

:hmm: Bamboo KE2X.... 13bt..... convo pros...... remenicient much!?