Taz_Rx

Yes shaft spline is different, but they are still cable..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/12935-how-to-fit-a-w50-to-a-k-series-motor/

Certainly do, if you've put one together you wouldn't doubt them. Tips for beginners when putting them together - Soak the hose in some HOT water for a little while prior. It'll make the hose slightly more flexi. Also wiping a small amount of grease or dishwashing liquid around the fitting or end of the hose helps. :wink: Also anybody thinking of using them - The fitting itslef isn't really any cheaper than a braided one, its the hose itself that can save you some coin.

Most of mine are push lock, never had a drip from one of them. FYI - The straight are easy to fit into the hose. 90* and 45* ones ones the other hand are a bitch. I ended up with a bruise in the palm of my hand from doing them!!!

Diddo. Happened to me last night while cooking a BBQ! :blush:

Only because you can just wind the boost up in the RX7. Just the same story as any NA vs Turbo motor. RX8 motors have side exhaust ports as well as intake ports if you didn't know. Pretty much totally elliminates overlap. It'll be interesting when there's a few more RX8's out of warentee and people start tuning the NA renesis a bit more. Already seen a couple of renesis converted gen 1's. Oh and btw, I would personally steer clear of a 12a as Mazda has now stops production of 12a parts, so things like rotor housings are getting rarer and more expensive. You can cut down 13b housing but thats just more expense in machining. Better off just going 13b to start with.

Forgive the stupid question, but you did swap the auto flex plate and torque converted for a manual flywheel and clutch kit? Seen stupider things done before! :rolls:

Nice work Dougy. Lol at "wedding car" wearing semi slicks! :lolcry:

Hey do you happen to have a spare rolla diff laying around? Guy I know up your way needs one for a 30.

oh oh oh oh, somebody mentioned to me the other day that GT5 was about to come out..... is that it? I demend you bring it round if so!!! :jamie:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MSD-BLASTER-COIL-2-BRAND-NEW-/230554824455?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ae236f07 :wink:

Good to hear buddy. I'll keep an eye on the club-k project thread (gotta be a platinum member to see it) and transfer some major updates here for you. :wink:

Not 100% sure about 7kc but 7ke's actually use a 215mm clutch plate Cam. :wink:

Should hopefully just be cable adjustment then if its been in a rolla before.

Hey mate did you end up getting the wagon rear half to build your trailer? Was just having a look on club-K and found this project a guy is working on. He bought a 36 that had a bent front corner and cut the front half off it. Front half (of the rear half of car) will have the stock seats in it still as a couch, and the lift the hatch and there will be a BBQ in the back. Couple of pics..... I like this.....

K-W56/7/8 are hydro but K-W50 is still cable btw

Theoretically, even if he had a 200mm clutch kits still in it then the TOB should still be able to disengugae the clutch! The clutch plate just won't turn the input shaft. We'll see what happen when he adjusts the cable I suppose. Do you know if the 5k in question has been in a corolla before or has it come straight from a liteace?

See italics - Not exactly. A K-W50 would be a wiser choice, as its just as strong as the w56..... but half the price! :wink:

How old are your sprak plug and coil leads?

My original hot glue (pictured above) ended up cracking away, I ended up re-doing it with 24 hour areldite and never had a problem since. :wink:

...... which you just mated with a scored old flywheel. You should always machine the flywheel when fitting a new clutch kit.

Did you get the flywheel machined before you put the new clutch in?

Before you locked it it would have been set around 8*, and then it would mechanically advance (what you just de-activated) from there. With the locked dizzy you should be running around 20-25*, because it no longer advances. So, you shouldn't have done any damage, it would have just been running way worse than it should be. Oh and just a word of warning - Motors with locked dizzy sometimes don't like starting on a cold morning (because you only need like 0-5* to start, not 25*), they'll wind over really slow to start with and finally kick into life. Its no biggy and will still start, just now you won't be suprised when it does. :wink:

clink, clink, clink, clink :lolcry:

Agreed. to much timing will blow your head gasket. Did you end up locking the dizzy? ..... I really hope you didn't just drive it without doing anything about the timing? :hmm:

The switch should be able to handle the current draw of the fan, but yeah give it a try wired on the trigger not the fan feed. :wink: