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Taz_Rx

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Everything posted by Taz_Rx

  1. Only point would be if you were converting the brakes to something 5 stud, EG rx7 4 pots or a falcon 'hopper stppoer' kit etc.
  2. Only if you run it on methanol!
  3. Yeah you can run a charged 5k with hydros. It would be a good idea to cam the 5k before dropping it in. If you want to charge it later on then don't go too big with your cam choice. You need to make the most of the S/C's low/mid power. If the cam is too big you'll have full boost, with cam lag. I used to have this problem with the CT12 and a camtech 609.
  4. Nah they're different to what you've described. The just slip over the very top of the valve stem above the collet. You can see where they're supposed to go in the above pic, which doesn't have any in it. The idea of them is to simply stop oil running off the top of the retainers and running down the side of the stem into the guide. So you can understand why the newer ones which clip onto the top of the guides are soooo much better! :yes:
  5. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/47080-jdm-fender-mirrors/ Get in quick before the seagulls swoop!!! :wink:
  6. Hey buddy. Welcome to rollaclub, glad you like it. Understand what you mean about some of the US car scene. :lol: To answer some of your questions: 1, We never had 2 door KE70's released is Aus. There is a couple around that have been imported, but maybe only 2 or 3 ish. We did get TE71's or the "T18" as its commonly known here, which are about the closest to your TE72. I'm sure that aussie members get quite jealous of New Zealand, Continental USA, Europe and Asia who all got 2 doors. 2, If reliability is the number 1 requirement of your car then you picked the right manafacturer!! :jamie: You just can't kill most toyotas. I too used to be like you and was a carby man. I just liked everything to be simple and easy to work on myself. I then bit the bullet and decided to go EFI. After doing a lot of research and getting some hands on experience I now have my head around EFI and frankly wouldn't go back to a carby now. Once you get the concept of how it all works it really not that complicated. I too am also a fan of mazda rotaries. You can see in my sig below, as well as the corollas I also have a 13b bridgeported RX4. To be honest for either rally or drifting I personally probably WOULDN'T use a rotary. Yes they are fast and make awesome power per litre, but they don't have the best reputation in the reliability department - But to be fair this is sometimes more of a matter of neglected maintanence on the part of the owner rather than the motor itself. For a daily driver they're really just like any other motor - In if the more you work them for power the wose they'll get as a daily. Just like putting a big camshaft in a piston motor porting your rotary will make more power, but reduce the drivability. The engine swap itself isn't really all that hard. You just need to do a bit of research into engine mounts etc. There is a few rotary converted rollas here, here is just a couple to get you started.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/36663-ke30-rotorolla/ http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/24656-13bt-ke20s-ride/ 1 thing I highly suggest you look into is keeping your Toyota T series motor. There is a couple of different option here: If your on 3TCgarage then I would assume you've seen some of the Peurto Rican T series drag cars?..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/16233-toyota-pics-from-puerto-rico/ The Peurto Rican's get some crazy horsepower out of these old pushrods motors and run incredable 1/4 mile times. So working and/or turbo'ing your 3TC might be a viable option to get some extra power, but also keep some of the legendary Toyota reliability. A few things worth knowing here are: You can use a 3tgte turbo exhaust manifold on a 2tc or 3tc. This can save you some decent coin in not having to get a custom made turbo manifold made. For a budget turbo build you could use a down draft weber in "blow-through" configuration, there is a couple of K series blow-through setups about here if you want some more info. As you would see in the link I gave you some of the PR guys are even using sidedraft webers in their carby turbo setups. If you did also want to leap into the EFI sides of things you can also use a 2TGEU and 3TGTE (I'm pretty sure) EFI manifold on your 3TC. Again this could save you a bit in not getting a custom EFI setup made. Hope that gives you some ideas for now. Feel free to hit us up with some more questions. :wink:
  7. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Manual_Gearbox Realise you're new, might help if you familiarise yourself with the FAQ/wiki, its being overhauled at the moment as well. :wink:
  8. This isn't a sale section. Feel free to go and start a thread in the parts trader, just make sure you add a location and a price. :wink:
  9. Noticed you've said that before. Don't be tempted to build the 5k with a 3k head and run it NA until you fit a charger. The low compression will make it an absolute pig to drive. I've blown a cooler pipe off once and with no boost I reckon I had less power than a stocko 4kc. You could however build the 5k bottom end and then just slap a stock 5k head on it with the hydros. Then over time you can collect some solid lifter conversion parts, and a charger and work your 3k head. Then just fit everything over a weekend or so and boost your way to work on Monday!!! BTW, is the 3k a normal one or a big port? If its a big port then they have the shitty old valve stem seal o-rings. Pro of this is after removing the "engine hat" you can do them all in under 1 minute as you don't have to remove the springs and retainers like the better stem seals.
  10. Have you looked on the Crow/Camtech/Tighe websites!?
  11. Good work mate.
  12. In Aus 5k's came in KM36 Liteaces. They're not really that rare, you just need to be prepared to pay what the seller is asking... in comparison to a 3k or 4k. You could always just check a weber and a set of extractors on one of your 3k's, and then keep your eye out for a 5k. The extractors and webe could then be fitted to the 5k also.
  13. Have a chat to the guys at the tyre shop and tell them you want something with the same 'rolling diametre', and I'm sure they'll sort you out. :wink:
  14. Did you get the turbo kit and 5k?
  15. I was your friggen cousin! So we're going to learn to say "Hoysung sauce" as he rides a Hyosung now. Love the zoom zoom boom! :lol: Surge tank - haven't actually got around to getting another yet, but I was going to grab ones of these.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/aluminium-surge-tank-hose-tails-drift-drag-race-/230559143745?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ae655741 ...and just pay the $10 extra for dash fittings. Probably get him to make me up a simple oil catch can too. Oh and we've been working on our BOV/flutter sounds. :yes:
  16. Don't get too cocky, he dug up a thread from 2007 so he did obviously searched! :wink:
  17. You've pictured a ke30/55 4 speed there, so you'll have to cut a hole for the shifter. Like you said a ke70 box will line up with the auto shifter hole. Oh and you can't use a 5k head on a 4k as it'll give you something stupid like 14:1 compression. 3k head will up the CR on a 4k acceptable though.
  18. That's what I like to hear. At least then you also know they're not some rusted out, thin walled, warped flanged POS. I'll keep an eye out for you if you live in Norwood too?
  19. Good point Dave..... although you mixed it up. Having both wheels jacked up could cause issues as the diff can free wheel. If you only jack up one side and leave the other touching the ground then the diff HAS to work as designed and will give you an accurate ratio. Oh and I hope you're using jacks stands while getting under the car!? On another note, as I said above the tags often get lost when the backing plate is removed. I think that you can safely assume from this: That the backing plate hasn't been, hence the centre hasn't been removed, hence the 4.11 on the tag should be correct. :wink:
  20. yes..... but they're fitted to a car and I'm not selling them. Sorry. You can still buy them new for around $250-$300..... but everybody just doesn't want to pay that. Have a look in the wanted section for just how many extractors wanted thread there is,.... just on the first page!
  21. Is the 30 still registered? You would have enjoyed the "come play in the dirt days" in that. 55 looks familiar, I think Mark (ke20rolla) owned that.
  22. Sash had that setup pretty well sorted on gas. If I were you I'd just get the whole thing and continue to run it on gas for the economy. From memory it's also pretty responsive. Had to pop home for a mintue today to a grab the camera and took a pic while I was there. :wink: Oh, and one of my mates tought him to brap. Problem was what he actually tought him to say was "brap brap BANG"! :abuse: :lol:
  23. Where do you live again!? :P
  24. Finally got around to putting the chair restraint in my turbo car (pic in my thread) hehe. Turns out the '55 had a bolt hole in the (metal) parcel shelf and also a hole in the PDF shelf, never had to take any nhotice of it before and I retrimmed the MDF. Guessing KE30's must have just missed out on getting these. :hmm:
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