Taz_Rx

I was going to mention that ability but yeah!! :lol: It does seem like a lot of oil, and yes its probably more than the OMP would inject over a tank. Saying that though 2 stroke is a different type of oil and it mixes with fuel different. At the end of the day I'd rather over-lubricate my motor even if it does mean I spend and extra $1 every time I fill up. My engine builder told me to run 100:1. He's been racing rotaries for 30 odd years so I'm happyto trust him. :yes:

Most of those webers are vented into the throats so don't know it that is the issue.

Well he did say it was an AE, not a KE so that's highly possible!!! :poke:

The BTM's aren't cheap at around 4700 retail, get some mates rates somewhere and you could probably get one for $400'ish. Best option by far though.

That's an electronic dizzy isn't it? If so just pull the guts out of the top of it, remove the springs and replace them with some tie wire..... not cable ties. :rolls: JP - With the BTM you just run normal NA timing (unlocked) then the BTM just pulls out timing for said boost. And yeah I can't see a boost reference line either. There's a plumbing diagram in that link I gave you ofr those malpassi's.... hell I think I even put a cut-away pic of one in there!

I run 100:1 with the Yamalube so 40ml per 40 litres. Maybe its worth spending the $80 odd for one of those Wilwood bias valves!? :hmm: At least that way you'll have some way of controlling the bias if the rear are working a bit too hard..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Wilwood-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-260-8419-New-/270650389574?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f04053446

I would assume that the block on the side of that dizzy with the wires attached is the external ignitor? Can you get a better pic?

Obviously not.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/46556-carb-turbo-setup/

Notice you're running a GT40R coil. The "R" indicated that it HAS to be used in conjunction with a resistor. It's only designed to run most of its life at 6-8v so the full 14v will burn it out pretty quick. Solution - Sell that coil to somebody who is still using a resistor and buy yourself a GT40. :wink: Either that or get yourself a coil like what I'm using in Tar.

Nice, thats wpn36/SWL's turbo setup isn't it? You need to lock the dizzy, retro fit a boost retard solenoid to the dizzy or run something like an MSD BTM to retard your timing on boost. Otherwise start stocking up on headgaskets now. Also in regards to fuel, have you read this yet.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/17418-how-to-set-up-your-fuel-system/

No rush mate, I've also got another mate who's just put an SR with an S15 T28 in his cressy and he wants to put a GT30 something on that, so I've told him he'll get his arse kicked if its ever advertised for sale somewhere. 4ke isn't ideal phil, but it'll do the job. Did you buy leighs setup?

I removed my OMP on the last re-build too. Advantages: I've now never used any sump oil, my oil level NEVER changes now. For this reason I buy more expensive sump oil as its not just just being burn. I used to just run $25 for 4lt oil. 2 Stroke oil mixes with fuel and burns much better than sump oil. You have to piece of mind of know - If you're engine is getting fuel, its also deffinately getting oil. Don't have to worry about an OMP failure. I run Yamalube outboard 2 stroke BTW.

Can start here.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/17418-how-to-set-up-your-fuel-system/

It will be laggier than a T25 because its bigger...... but you'll then get some of that lag back due to the turbo being ball-bearing! :wink:

If you can then yeah. Or I can do you a cash adjusted swap for a T25G Phil! :jamie:

Its not 78K, it 7,800ml. So I think its pretty safe to assume its been round the clock one already making it a 107,000ml car. Thats still bugger all though. Yeah its clean, but there would be no way its only done 7800ml.

Did you sell that S15 T28 too?

Ah fair enough. Would be good to see that setup finally running properly. Ever since Mr Verban built it I don't think its ever had an adequate fuel setup behind it.

Got some pics?

K40's have an even bigger ratio difference between 4th and 5th than a K50, so doing what you've suggested would make what you don't like even worse!!! :yes:

Correct. S1/2 - 4x110 S3 - 4x114 s4/5/6/7/8 - 5x114 :wink:

Ever tried drifteing a van before? Its the strangest fealing when you're sitting over the front wheels. You just can't fell how much the arse is out.

Just an FYI - I've got a busted head bolt on the missus' pug block. I put probably 100ftlb on it before it broke so its proper stuff. Took it to a mechanic to easy out it, he drill it then stuff two Snap-on easy outs! >| So couldn't get it out. He then told me about a local guy hear who he's used before that uses electrolosis to remove busted bolts!! Apparently he just hooks a couple of electrode up to the broken bolt and it gets EATEN away!! Apparently doesn't effect the thread in the block at all!! Not sure how it works but the mechanic said he's successfully done it before with busted bolts in turbo ex housings. :hmm:

Agree, deffinately worth having the cushioning. Exedy don't make and un-cushioned button for K anymore anyway.

Never heard of anyone needing to change pushrods after a cam change. :hmm: 100 thou is like 2.5mm, which you'll have in adjustment of the rockers. :yes: