Taz_Rx

Make sure you get some stainless bolts, as I just told somebody else. You should be able to get some nice dome-head allen key bolts and nuts - nylocks wouldn't be a bad idea either.

You reckon!!! Look at the way the power climbs. :lolcry:

BR's just drop the "on" power to 6-8v. I think it might have something to do with burning out points quicker at 12v. The starting advantage comes from the 12v direct "start" power, which is only for a few seconds. Yeah mate, they're bosch and would have to be one of the most commonly used coils around. The failure would be due to people using a GT40 WITH a BR, or a GT40R WITHOUT a BR. Not much that I'm aware of. Maybe you can take note of some specs of each, output voltage etc.

Yeah you need the GT40 (no R) Tom. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a points coil with an electronic dizzy. :hmm: Both just ground the coil to fire it.

That would be a better idea as bolt-ons are illegal.

Are you a ex kiwi? If so on cluib-K everyone knows what a "twin squish" is.... here not so much.

You don't really need to push the fronts out, it won't look too odd. The back however, if you're running +10 wheels then you'd probably want 25-30mm. This is with 13x7 +10 wheels and a 27mm bolt on spacer.....

If you're currently running hydraulic then just leave it...... but make sure you just time it correctly. Don't see why you'd need adjustable gear.

60ft time Scott?

I think he was just suggesting the WD40 to clean the cap up so you could find the part number. :wink:

well some of it anyway.

Talk to 7shades! :lol: Seriously though, just take it to your local car wash and hit it with there high pressure cleaner.

picture would tell a thousand words in this case!?

I wish mate. I've had the missus's POS peugeot in my shed for nearly a couple of months now. Fix one problem find another. :rolls: I did just say to a mate on the weekend when he commented on the whining GB in the Zuk..... "have you put more oil in this GB yet? Bloody hell its getting noisey!" "Nah I don't care about it. Maybe if the GB blows up it'll give me the motivation to start this 4WD project!" :lolcry: I'm getting there. Maybe this summer. :hmm:

hahahaha, do you reckon this one deserves to go in the important and classic threads section Tom!? :lolcry: Luckily K valves are only like $8 and $11 each. I've got a 405 Mi16 motor in the shed with bent valves at the mo and they're at least $24 each. :glare:

Agreeing mate. :wink: Zoidburg was obviously using some 15's with like 75 profile tyres. Something like MA61's maybe?

:rolls: Refacing lifters should only cost you about $8 each. If you're paying $100 a set then you need to take some knee pads down to your local machine shop! :lol: You're also getting ripped if you're paying $140 for a chain and a timing cover gasket kit. Lifters in sump! :rolls: Thats why you remove them before removing that camshaft. Doubt cam would come out without removing lifters anyway. You can also get them out with the head on pretty easy - long reach pliers would work. $100 for a re-skim - again, knee pads - You should be paying $44.

Yeah about time Scott! :jamie: You're not a cross-breed so I guess that just puts you straight to the top of the main list above Curly! Will add you and the Sharperto racers later today.

That would be the oil pump drive tang on the bottom. Insert the dizzy as you have been, and hold some pressure down on top of it. The turn the motor over with a 19mm spanner on the crank. When the tang lines up, it'll drop in properly and the dizzy will sit flush. :wink:

Excess pressure won't effect the bearings, its the oil seals that can't handle it. Sorry, went I said "-8" (as in "dash 8) I was talking about the speedflow size of the fitting. I would surely have to be bigger than 8mm. The bolt that hold the drain fitting on would be 8mm!!! :hmm:

Pretty sure the boot lid should fit too. The only major differences are the B-pillar locations, door length and glass sized. Edit - Just remebered I sold a guy a 55 rear windscreen to put in a 30 2 door so that would backup that they're the same. :wink:

:y: Wheel diametre VS ROLLING DIAMETRE. :wink:

Swap some spark plug leads around.... that'll give you a lumpy idle with no power for a $0 budget!! :poke:

:lolcry: Won't make that mistake again. FYI E - Pouring brake fluid into the carby of your (running) engine is actually a done thing!!! As well as some lubrication (being oil) the brake fluid apparently boils a bit and effectively gives your engine a 'steam clean'. Its a handy trick to know with old rotary engines that have been sitting inactive for years. Sometimes the apex seals and corner seals will get a bit stuck in the rotors causing a loss of compression, the 'steam clean' will free them up and potentially bring an old motor back to life. :wink:

:bash: Just realised it was similarities between 70's and 55's. For some reason when I wrote the last above post I was thinking you wanted to know about 30's and 55's.