Taz_Rx

Another second hand engine mount is still going to be 20+ years old, so quite likely to crak as well. Just fork out the $50 for piece of mind. :D

Thats simple, its just a statitory declaration so they know you didn't steal the car. Had to do this once with an ex-missus car. We couldn't get it contact with the seller for him to sign so we just signed a stat dec saying "We bought a car off XXXX person on XX/XX/XXXX date for $X" and that was all that was needed. I'm sure a VIN # etc them came up fishy they would further investigate. I would highly suggest AGAINST going for a 12a or 12at as Mazda have now stopped making a lot of parts for them. Essential parts like rotor housings. This is also making the price of NOS parts still kicking about go through the roof! You could always look into doing a Renesis (RX8 motor) 13b (NA) conversion! :D There's a couple getting about lately.

Or if its a Lancia then its rusted before they even get the key in the door! :D

Vacuum advance pulls around 6-8*. The mechaincal advancment can wind in around 40*. 20-25* might sound high for idle (and it won't making starting easy) but remember thats were you timing will stay so its not going any higher than 25.

Bolt-on (or slip ons) for that matter are illegal in all states of Aus....... unless fitted from factory like one of those jacked up falcon utes for instance. I know where you're coming from though Callum, I've got some on the mazda as you can't get Lenso RS5's in 4x110 and +20. +1 for buying wheel in the right offset if possible though. Easier.... and safer. Finn - This is the second time you've effectively asked people to spoon feed you info, the first time being about paint. Is there any reason why you couldn't just trawl the readers rides section to find these yourself!? Instead you've asked people to basically post what pics they would have in the rides thread here just for you to see thier wheels. :bash: We're always willing to help here at RC...... but you still need to be willing to do some leg work yourself to find what you want. Consider this a freindly reminder. Don't make me send pink letter like Aurora. :rolls: Cheers, Si.

Don't stress old fella. Old skool info like that is still appreciated. FYI Hiro this thread was posted as a link in a more recent thread so that's were old fella got hold of it. Trev - Have you see this thread before..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=18354 I really like the stealth setup (both carb/efi and ignition [waste spark packs]) a lot. How good would it be to combine that and this..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=43929 :rolls:

:bash: Todd probably isn't the best person to ask about a 7kze vs a SR20DE+T....... he probably want to see a forced 7k as much as I do!! FYI Todd - I just told somebody to speak to you RE ARP head studs for K's. Could be worth while helping him out if you can as he works at a place in Melboure (IIRC) that make custom pistons. :rolls:

+1 :rolls:

KE30/55 shifter pos is a couple of inch further forward than KE70. KE20 is about the same again further forward so a '20 box in a '70 would have the shifter coming though...... :bash: just in front of the heater box!!! :laff: Pongwow! - Pretty much all Toyota RWD gearboxes are the same length. :rolls:

Yeah 8 is stock. You can let it ping a little without doing too much damage. If you don't have a timing light just advance it a little at a time until it starts to ping then back it off so it doesn't. :rolls:

Would have absolute no hesitation in using cable ties to lock a 3k dizzy again,....only cause of the design of them and how you do it, but I wouldn't replace the spring with cable ties again. :rolls: 40 odd extra degrees of timing aint cool. Had a rollaclubber in the car at the time, can't remember if it was Leigh or Josho...... should have heard it knockin on boost though! :bash:

Forget drums, discs is where its at for rear brake conversions. Either look at converting to a stronger diff that already has discs like and R31 diff for example. Or look into converting either the original (weak as piss) difff or another strong drum (like a hilux) to discs.

So you're a fan of changing head gaskets then!? :rolls:

I've locked up nearly every K dizzy bar and INTERNAL IGNITOR elec dizzy. Assuming they're just the same as an external, just remove the elec points and ignitor from the top of the dizzy so you can see the weights and springs. Remove the springs and replace them with tie-wire so the weights can't move. Its pretty self explanitary once you get the top bits out. DON'T use cable ties instead of tie-wire, this is what caused my last head gasket failure, as the cable ties snapped and wound 40 odd degrees of timing in ontop of about 12 psi. :laff: :rolls: You'll want around 20-25* BTDC. :bash:

How do I make my KE70 drift? :lolcry:

Sure do....and a rollaclubber even works at the Launy Pedders. :hmm: Buy some parts (kings/pedders/lovells springs and lowering blocks, maybe new shocks too) and drive the car to Launy for a day. I could then help/show you what to do. :blush:

Well done mate, she's come a long way in the short time you've owned it!! :hmm:

Wire brush wheels are good for cleaning stuff up, but I wouldn't use them again for polishing, you just create yourself more work as you need to sand out any scratches the wire put in the alloy. As an alternative, get yourself a sanding flapper wheel in about 80 grit to put in the drill (around $5 each for a toll supplier) and use that as the first clean up. You can then get some finer grit flappers to carry on. When I did my 7ke manifold I used 80, 120 and 240 grit wheels, then went to wet sanding. BTW - you can near double the grit of the flapper to know what sort of finish you'll get because they're in the drill. The 240 flapper gives you more of 400-500 wet/dry finsih if you used normal paper. :hmm:

Air would be nice and cold, but I don't blame on the traction point. :hmm: Some of you may of recieved this email earlier in the week.... Below are all the attachements from the email that I have PDF'd to make your life easy...... Calendar_for_2010_emailing.pdf COMPENTRY.pdf Membership_Form10_11.pdf SUPREGDEC.pdf SUPREGDETAIL.pdf

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17418 Post #7 :hmm:

:hmm: I love your predictions and assumptions!!! :blush:

T series - 20 spline A series - 22 spline Agreed, sell the T and buy an A version.

Sounds more like a shifter housing issue than anything with the gears themselves. Try pulling out all of the rubber boots etc over the shifter so you can see the box. Have a look around the shifter housing and see if there's something not right. Could be as simple as the spring that holds in the shifter has wiggled past the circlip and loosened off some pressure.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=24117 :hmm:

Burson. Should be able to get for around $10 depending on how much they like you! :blush: And while you're on Wellington street stop in at nuts and bolts and get yourself some sanding flapper wheels in a couple of different grits. You'll need the 3mm shaft ones if you're going to use a dremel. If you don't have a dremel then I'm about to buy a die grinder for my compressor so you could come around and use that. :hmm: