Taz_Rx

Correct. Reduce valce seperation to reduce blow-by. Edit: Brain fade, sound of said INCREASE VALVE SEPERATION.

Exedy heavy duty. Don't go buttom. Could probably get cheaper than an exedy but you get what you pay for. Whatever you do don't get an RPM clutch, they're absolutely shit.

Pretty crazy that it went on its lid and still has all the glass intact!!! espeacially the windsreens!

Any particular reason why you've got the S/C on that side? rather than the usual A/C mounting spot. Bit hard to tell in that pic..... is it on top of the inlet manifold like that "peaches" car?

With ya now. :wink: Just make sure the boost retard solenoid will pull enough timing out, vac advance solenoids only add around 8*, you'll need more retarding than that. FYI - I actually went slower with a T28 running 18 odd psi (15.3'ish) than a T25G running 10psi (14.5), so its not all down to volume like Darren said. Responsiveness and where it makes the power makes all the difference on the strip. :yes: Oh and BTW, I'm pretty sure 7ke's have CAS's, but still have a dizzy cap for spark distro duties. Maybe look into them. I've actually got a K series hall effects CAS (custom) at home I need to fit, but need 3x more coils and ignitors to use it.

Should be able to just remove the boost retard solenoid off the charade dizzy and retro fit it to the K one...... but at the end of the day you would be stupid not to run ECU controlled ignition from the E11 so you don't need vac/boost solenoid control anyway. :no2: +1 a T04 is simply far too big. Do it if you want, but don't be suprised when you get a "told you so!"

Yeah can't use a 3/4/5k sump on a 7k. The heads do actually fit on though, not that I know why you'd do it. 7k's do have some extra bolts in the head along the spark plug side, it wouldn't be any big deal if you didn't use these say fitting 7k head to a 5k, the head bolts will hold it down tight enough. As far as flywheels and clutches on 7k's for K40/50's, just use a 3/4k flywheel and 180mm clutch kit.

Steering components are all the same. Front struts are also the same. Be aware though that the 30 will have sumitomo (Jap) calipers and discs and the 55 will have Girlock (Aus) calipers and discs 1mm thicker.

My manifold was over $700 :bash: ...... Can get a J-pipe made for under $100 though. Oh and I didn't notice a whole lot of difference in going from a 4ktc to a 5ktc, little bit more torque maybe.

Yeah great attitude. :rolls:

You talking about the 7k on ebay? If so then I think thats actually THE engine Matt had, and started this thread about. Its been sold like 3x times now and never been fitted to a car.

Be a bit more specific on what parts you want to know about. We're not going to give you a full list of everything interchangable between cars.

Road or track car? Look up the wheel track of an S13..... then check the RTA in your state in regards to track increases.

Yes a stock carb would do the job. Might need some re-jetting to get it right though.

Yeah book for Katie. Better to over-quote.

Exactly mate. Come along and meet some of us. Count me and Byron in also Ben. Not sure if Katie will have to work or not.

Rear coilover - The thing everybody is thinking but not saying is mounting. Currently your diff spread its load accross the leaf packs (maybe 80 odd %) and the shocks. If you converted to coilovers you would have to keep at least 1x leaf there (unless you completely redisign the under side of the car with trailing arms, panhard rods etc etc) to keep things in place, and then mount the coilover springs around the rear shocks..... and what did you just do - pretty much swap the loading percentages from leafs to shocks/coilovers. Question - do you think the shock mounts on both the diff and in the bottom of the body were designed to bare maybe 80% of the rear weight!? Also - yes a 7K will have more torque over 5k, but the 5k will kick its arse rev wise any day of the week because of its shorter stroke.Really depends were you want your torque AND POWER curves.

Ball bearing turbos don't like lots of oil pressure like bush bearings. About 16psi is around the magic number. Do you know if a pressure restrictor was fitted to the turbo oil feed line? Would be a little fitting with a hole in it about 0.8m ID. As for the drain, so what were you running, -8?

Go the other way around - Do brakes and suspension first (with stock engine) and then do your engine conversion once all thats done. :wink:

Yes you could, but why? You could run and internally gated turbo no worries on a 4age. Hell you could get and internally gates turbo that would be too big for a 4age!!!

Do they have rollaclub usernames? Would prefer to upload with the MEMBERS name.

+ the other thing is - He developed a little bit of a following to that thread. Don't you think he would leverage that interest and advertise it here!? + $3500 sounds a bit too cheap to me!

Just found that. Makes me wonder if he ever got it running properly. It one thing to make it free rev and make cool noises, but load her up and its a different story. I asked a few question in the thread he had about it and he just seemed to ignore them. My guess would be yes the work is done, but as far as tuning its probably far from adequate.

I think it would be a bit stupid to run a boosted K on anything less than 98. While on the subject of fuel availability the only 98 octane we can get is BP ultimate. What other fuel companies sell 98 on the big island?

You do much work for Targa West at Staging Connections Mark?