Taz_Rx

Nothing too speacial yet. Just some kings springs with pedders shocks up front with 1 flipped leaf and TRD 8 way adjustales in the rear. I've got some things in the works for new front struts but would prefer to get some better brakes to go in at the same time too.

Nice work buddy, should go well! :yes:

Happy b'day buddy :y:

Hazard lights.

Hi David, Can I please get some more info before I add your times. Just want to know what engine was in each car. :lolcry: You'll be the only Barbagello time! Feel old? :lol:

I'm pretty sure most WRX's have quite weak first and second gear syncro as a "weakest link" to preserve the rest of the driveline.

http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=ke17&_sacat=See-All-Categories :wink:

+1, think someones stressing a bit. If the head had been plained that much you'd be seeing the drain-backs below the spark plug tubes from the under side. I had a 5k head with one of those lugs. No idea what it was there for. Just hangs in the middle of no-where hey!

Do you mean the little shafts, springs and washers with a slot that hold the shoes to the drum assembly. If so I've got a set I could send you if you ask nicely! :wink:

Hydro or solid lifters Phil? If solid what did you set the valves clearances to?

Firstly I think you need to be congratulated on your post, considering english wouldn't be your first language! :jamie: We have many aussie members who stuggle to write such a coherant post/thread. Anyway - Being a torquey, long stroke motor there's not a whole lot that can be done about the revs. Yes sure you can put an aftermarket camshaft in it, but this would want to be pretty mild - which will keep you some decent torque still too. I can help with some of your other questions - Yes a 3/4/5k DCOE manifold will fit the 7k. They even have the same sized ports, so you wouldn't have to do any port matching. Same with extractors. Distributor - Is the stock 7kc one electronic (it should be since 5k's had them)? If so just use that but get it re-curved to suit. Probably just easiest to leave the CR stock, or you could plane the head a bit to up it, but keep in mind your hydro lifters when you do. To keep it cool, just recore the stock radiator to a bigger one if required, and maybe fit a thermo fan and thermostat switch. Oh and most of the rules for bulding a tough 4/5k would still apply to the 7k :wink:

Too many dicks on the dance floor. :wink:

Jumped ship to A/V partners? I'm an ESM in Tassie BTW. :wink:

A T28 would be pretty nice on a 7k. Reckon a T25 would be verging on too small. TD04L's off WRX's are also good turbos for K's.

Yep. Gotta use the liteace bellhousing, fork, bearing retainer and TOB, as well as the liteace flywheel (different to corolla FW) and clutch kit.

You can still run your BR and resistor type coil with the elec dizzy E. You don't have to change, but the extra voltage on the "on" circuit would help.

Remove the whhel. :wink: :lol:

Really hope you did have oil in it, that would have just been really dumb. I'm with Cam too. I also hope the lifter were re-faced?

Sorry mate, just some light hearted comedy. Wasn't having a dig. Mate you were just way overpircing some of that work. I didn't want to see you scare somebody off a re-build etc when it wasn't going to cost as much as what you were quoted. I know its best to under-quote and over-deliver but that was going a little too far IMHO.

BS. 7k's don't cost that much. I've seen complete motors with the fuel injection, ex manifold and ECU go for under $1k. This will piss you of phil - my wagon - A/C, 5 speed, running 7k....... $300!!!

Hey mate, I wrote the FAQ on the K-W50 setup. I got the GB ready with the bellhousing and fork fitted, then took the KE55 and RA40 tailshafts to a mechanic mate to get the end on. He was the one who said "you can use an old holden uni for this". I never investigated it much further as I then bought a K-T50 setup and the K-W will soon be used for another project. I would be connecting the W yoke to a suzuki jack-shaft so whatever info I come up with for that won't be much use to you. As for the turbo setup, you should be able to knock somethig up pretty cheap, espeacially being suck-through. I got my original blow-through setup running for around $400 with a few donations from mates. Suck-through doesn't require the same fuel setup as blow-though, its pretty much just a normal carby setup as long as you have adequate volume. The cheapest way to get the exhaust gas flowing through the turbo is with a "j-pipe". Click on "tar" in my signature below and you can find some pics of j-pipes. :wink: Cheers, Si.

4AGES have torque to yeild bolts, so you have to do them up to a certain tension, then give them like a quarter turn from there.

Make sure you get some stainless bolts, as I just told somebody else. You should be able to get some nice dome-head allen key bolts and nuts - nylocks wouldn't be a bad idea either.

You reckon!!! Look at the way the power climbs. :lolcry:

BR's just drop the "on" power to 6-8v. I think it might have something to do with burning out points quicker at 12v. The starting advantage comes from the 12v direct "start" power, which is only for a few seconds. Yeah mate, they're bosch and would have to be one of the most commonly used coils around. The failure would be due to people using a GT40 WITH a BR, or a GT40R WITHOUT a BR. Not much that I'm aware of. Maybe you can take note of some specs of each, output voltage etc.