Taz_Rx

I've toyed with this idea also. I was thinking about using a K motor and inserting a say 1m square sheet of glass in place of the head gasket. Was think about just getting maybe 4x of the headstud holes drilled using an old HG as a template then just reassemble it with the glass instead of a HG. Obviously the head would then be sitting on top of the middle of the coffee ttable. Would just need to work out some way of leveling the bottom of the motor as I think the bearing races might sit below the sump flange.

I don't think he's got that far yet Trev. The info I assume he needs is more along the lines of removing the axles so he can get the whole centre out. :yes:

Correct, just like my motor. CR is around 8:1

DON'T TOUCH THE IGNITION BARREL YET!!!! Go grab a test light and check that you have "on" power (through the ballast resistor) to your coil first. By the sounds of it you either have a dead BR or wiring to it. When you hold the key at "start" you're actually powering the coil with the 12v direct circuit. :yes:

just block the return outlet on the carby.

65rwkw :hmm:

I've ran 22psi on stock rods. :happy: The spool would be a good idea if you can afford them though. 4k head on a 5k = low comp motor. Not hard to find 7ke (like mine) from a KR42R townace if you look in the right spots. Do a ring around of some commercial wreckers who deal in vans and trucks. As above, 7ke from KR42R. There's also 4ke stuff but its overpriced and not real great. No 5k came out with stock EFI. Why? A BB T28 is pretty much ideal for a 5k. You won't want to go much bigger, and being ball bearing you can run over 20psi with no dramas.

:blinks: Flat top pistons have flat tops...... end of story. There's 2x different "dished" piston 5k's: "O-dish" - around 6-8cc "D-dish" - around 22cc of dish.

12psi...... Can tell you now you'll be well down the list. Fun doesn't start with a boosted K until about 15psi! As for the auto - Has nobody else thought about looking into getting an auto from a KR42R townace!?

Slicks + stock rolla diff = Shattered diff :yes:

Setup is correct. You're putting NEW, bigger bundy tube through? If so remove the old small one, use it as a template to bend the new stuff, then put it back in were it was. Clips should still be fine for the bigger tube. Yes use rubber hose to connect things up, just use the bundy tube for the runs under the car. If I were to simply run the rubber tubing through the cabin, would I be able to get it through engineering?- Most deffinately not..... even in Tassie.

Nearly..... apparently he was bragging about how cheap his insurance IS for his un-engineered and hence illegal car. A senior member had a polite go at him about it (considering his occupation) and he chucked a hissy over it. I'm going to lock this up. If Rod returns and wants it opened again he can request a mod to open it.

And its just a couple of male bullet terminals hanging out of a big bolt looking sensor. There should be wires in the engine bay from the stock GB reverse switch.

A bit of residual heat in the exhaust is all it takes to ignite some un-burnt fuel. That's how my mazda blows awesome flames. Have you tried not costing it home for the last bit of your trip. Maybe also try giving it a rev just before you switch it off and see if it still does it.

Fig Jam :lol: There's 2x pics of a kit and 1 assembled pic. Thats a "this is them installed on a strut" pic. :wink:

+2 Ken there's a reason why he's not on the Castrol list...... he not good enough. If he was that good of a driver wouldn't one of the F1 teams snapped him up by now!? :hmm:

Saw that on the news last night and did lol. Like he'll hate Jail! :happy:

Are you sure its a complete, build coilover strut? It could be just a coilover sleeve kit, in which case USD$140 doesn't sound quite so cheap. :hmm:

Should of asked me that question a month ago. I had a S2 5 speed sitting on the shelf next to my K-W50 and could of taken a pic of box next to each other. Have since sold the S2 box. Would have been pretty close in length, maybe only 200mm max extra length in the rotor box. Another thing worth knowing in regards to rotor boxes is you can use an RX4 4 speed bellhousing on a S4/5 turbo box so you can still use the 8.5" RX4 clutch/flywheel instead of the 9.5" turbo clutch. Check ausrotary for a supra bell housing. :wink:

An RX4/5 or Gen 1 RX7 5 speed would fit in a 30/55 tunnel, but I don't know about a 25. They'll will handle 13bbp power but don't be suprised if it pops. S4/5 turbo gearbox would be a better choice, or a supra as Sam said. Nice comprehensive list too Dave! :lol:

Yeah too short for sedans.... they could be just right for a wagon.

Nail.... ...Head. :lock_folder:

Calipers do the work so brakes can only be as good as the calipers. A bigger MC will push more fluid, so running a bigger MC with stock calipers is only going to give you a tighter pedal and increase your chances of lockups.

Crazy setup, thats for sure. Another RC member with a forced fed K was recently speaking to me about doing a crazy re-build and changing their setup a bit. Mentioned running 30+psi. As I said to him there's really not too much point in running over around 25psi as the head just can't flow it. Darren will agree with me as IIRC it was him who originally told me about it. 1 thing that makes me wonder about this "3K" though, as I said in a post earlier it has 5k lugs on the head. This just doesn't make sense! If it was a 3k bottom end running a 5k head then the CR would be stupidly high. Same if it was a rare 4ku head which also has the lugs. Make me think that this is actuall running a 5k (as you would) and telling people its a 3k. If you know the guy Rad, maybe you can suggest he signs up and joins the conversation. I would love the be able to chat with somebody who obviously loved K's, and boosted ones at that, as much as I do! :jamie:

went straight over his head Trev. :lol: