Taz_Rx

Edit the original (first) post. :hmm:

Went out for a sunday arvo "play" with a 200+rwkw S4 rx7 yesterday. :hmm: Was quite fun. He wouldn't get much traction in 2nd so I'd shoot off out of tight corners and then he'd hunt me down in 3rd/4th. break, and repeat. :blinks: I think my intercooler is efficient enough. 18psi the whole way through 2nd, 3rd and 4th and I didn't get any higher inlet temps than 35*C!!!! Ambient was about 10*C.

I'm glad I look in here today!!! I actually went to put a centre console in Tar finally last weekend. I bolted it in, and then went to run the car back in the shed. Couldn't get 1st, 3rd of 5th either because of the angle of the T50 shifter. I was thinking about heating a bending the shifter a bit to clear it, or modifying the console (in a different way to what you did). Think I'll just give this a crack first. :hmm:

Mate are you actually aware that this is a factory turbo, AWD vehicle. They're a bit quicker than most people would give them credit for. One of my mates used to have one and it was quite quick runnig 15 odd psi!!!! They're basically just a Ford version of a Mazda GTX.

Just check your oil level. Sounds low. 6psi sounds a bit low to me to be honest E. I haven't touched my oil pump. I'll get 70psi running cold and the idle psi won't drop any lower than 20psi when hot.

The OP wanted a 5 speed and was talking about "celica GB's". Thats why mitch told him he needs a K50. For simplicities sake, forget about the K-W and K-T bellhousing people have spoken about. If you want a 5 speed try and find a K50 (thats what the gearbox is called) from a KE30 or KE55. You could use one from a KE70 but the shifter will be in the wrong spot.

Its not a harmonic balancer.... its a crank pulley. Looping the heater hoses would be best, but you could just block them off.

Gotta love Tassie winters with boosted cars. This was on my drive to work this morning.... And the data logger screen with min/max. That was with boost, didn't get higher than 8*C.....

:) :)

theres actually heaps of tractor drift vids on the tube!

Its a bit of an upperclass type suburb, hence not real cheap to rent or buy. Quiet - yes. Quick commute to town - yes. Though anywhere in launy really is. The one thing I really don't like about Trevallyn though is the fact its really hilly. For this reason not all houses have garages and the ones that do are small. Driveways are also very steep, so for anybody into working on/playing with cars its not the best suburb. I know there a couple of rollaclubber that live in Trevallyn, so see what they have to say. :)

But have you f@$ked with it?

Is this the one YOU rebuilt?

Raven works in an auto parts shop. I'm sure he can hook you up with one as he did Philbey.

Have a think about this E. :) The vacuum advances....... how are you going to get retarding!? FYI - They're just a 2 stage vac advance. :)

Yes you can double nut them with the engine still in the car. As Cam said I'd suggest still dropping the front of the sump a little bit. Otherwise you'll start to push the sump gasket back towards the motor when you try and re-fit the cover. I like you string idea though Cam! I've gotta pull a timing cover off soon so I think I'll try that. :)

There's supposed to be an "E-clip" that slots into the slots on this bit... Mind you most have broken over the years and end up with hose clamps on them as does Jono's. Pull the cable sheeth tight and do up the hose clamp up against the rubber block.

Dave google "volkswagon TSi engine". :wink: Mass produced twin charged motor...... although this thread is about twin turbos. The reason why there isn't heaps of twin turbo engines out there is cause you can get better all round performance with one. How many RB26, JZ's or 13bt's do you see that have had single conversions! :laff:

This help.... As for the second port on the dizzy, just t piece off the ones that there already. :wink:

Don't forget to put a new front main seal in it while you're there.

More pics here..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=38962

Amazing what a little water under pressure can do hey! :laff: That should be enough motivation for people to double check their head stud holes for water before re-assembling after a BHG. ;) I also use wet paper, but sometimes with a little grease just to seal things up a bit more. You can see what squirt out when he hits it with a hammer - the grease will seal and stop this so its even more efficient.

Incorrect. As colin said below you electronic dizzies also use ignitors. An ignitor is basically just a relay. It grounds the coil when told to do so (by a pulse from the ECU or elec dizzy). You have to use an ignitor between the ECU and coil in an EFI car because if the discharge voltage of the coil went through the ECU it would blow the shit out of it. Yeah check if your elec dizzy has an internal ignitor or not, that will determine if you need an external one or not. As for the resistor, regardless of weather your running points or electronic if you are using a ballast resistor you must also use a resistor type coil or vice versa. Thats what the "R" in GT40R stands for - Must be used with a resistor.

I'm guessing maybe he kept the tonna and she got the WRX!?