Taz_Rx

haha you're nearly half way there then. Mines a 7ke manifold. The other ones you've seen that hang over the top of the motor are 4ke manifolds.

Ah yeah right...... enlargable pics. :yes: I thought it might have said "Levin" as was getting confused.

PM, or in that case U2U sent. :yes:

Aftermarket speedo aren't an easy conversion. If you struggle to see it at night I suggest maybe trying to retro fit some LED in the orginal cluster for more light. If you're still not happy with it, then maybe look at the aftermarket speedo.

The adapter plate is part of the TRD upright kit. The idea of it is to change the bolt locations to better seal the ports. Ie the ex ports have a n extra bolt directly above them. HOWEVER, I can't really understand how this can really improve things all that much when you still use the standard bolt configuration to bolt the adapter plate to the head. Blown5k did a re-run of TRD upright manifolds last year. I can see if he still has any left if you want?

Was just about then mention the commo when I was reading your reply Hiro, but then you beat me to it. The holdens engineering for you though. The RB30 skylines didn't have the same problem.

Fairo. Had? don't have any still?

Whats that dash in?

Teach her to poke out her tongue. I got byron doing it when he was only like 3 months corrected. Fun as when you hand the kid to someone and they do the old "Awww aren't you cut" and the bady responds by poking out their tongue.

This why it pay to search sometimes! :jamie: .... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=40959

Wouldn't be a bad idea at all. :jamie:

....and how knackered or fresh the stuff is to start with. Mate of mine just blew 2nd gear out of a 22 spline. Took 20+psi in a 20v hybrid motor mind you.

Blues are full stroke. Pretty sure the shorts are green. You couldn't use the Blues in a wags cause they'd be too long. Good shocks...... if you use them at the correct height. Mind you mine are much better now I have some half decent shocks in the front. The old knackered wet legs were accentuating the problem of the rebound in the rear.

Layshaft doesn't actually have bearings!!! Thats why the gear part slowly eats into the shaft it runs on. Been there, done that. :jamie: Took about 5 tonnes of pressure (in a hydro press) to push one of these worn shafts out of the gearbox casing once!!!! :jamie:

Yeah I would have busted that one..... :jamie: might have even been back in the CT12 days actually!!! so at least 3-4 years ago. I've got a few bit and pieces like that for stories between my rollas and the mazda. Busted and bent axles, busted gearbox bit, busted wheels etc. I should get you a pick of my mazda diff "bommy-nocker" pinion. Death with a spline! :jamie:

So we might see everything up for sale again when he gives up!? :jamie:

Probably the cost Ben. I agree with Felix. If you want to boost it later, and are happy to go blow-through, just get a down draft weber. That'll give you pretty good NA performance, then just put a hat on it for some boost and setup to fuel system adequately. You could run twin carbs with the S/C. It'll just be a WHOLE lot harder to tune. As felix also mentioned I don't see any point in uprighting it. I also wouldn't worry about o-ringing the block/head either.

Have been forgetting to upload these for 2 weeks....... Sorry the pics aren't of the greatest quality. Could possibly get them better on a camera, these were off my phone.

Because it can crystalise and crack the metal. Never personally seen it but been told it deffinetly can happen. Hit up the googles. :jamie:

Could also be the pilot/spiggot bearing. But more likely input shaft.

Oh for sure. I just thought the statement that a stock 12a is much quicker than a worked 5k was a bit false, and thought I'd add my 2 bob....... having had both a stock and worked 12a, and a worked 5k. Like I said before, all you need on the 12a is an IDA and a decent exhaust system and then it will leave the 5k for dead. :jamie:

If you have a hot top, and a cold bottom of the radiator (way it should be) then I don't see how this translates to a faulty/blocked radiator!! I mean if it was just as hot in the bottom as it was in the top then I WOULD point the finger at the rad. There is something else (in the motor) that is blocking the flow of water, and this is causing the hose to feel very hot by the time it exits the motor. The first thing I would be checking is the thermostat (even if its new) as mentioned above. Try and run the motor without it and see if it still overheats. As ke70dave said above, air pockets in the cooling system can really play havock. They'll reduce effientcy and get it hot, as well as cause extra pressure like dave explained.

I know with KE3/5X's the panel van shocks are actually shorter than sedan ones. I suggest you find out if its the same in XE7X's before you make any decisions. :jamie:

I don't think thats a 4 speed!!! Have a listen at the end of the start/finish straight...... he drops 3 gears and I highly doubt he's going from 4th to 1st!!! :jamie:

Oh jeez, If I knew it was still on by then then I would have still come out. Last one I was at in the pits was all done by about 2pm.