Taz_Rx

Cool cool. Just wondered cause as far as I know you're the first person to actually convert to a K-W(alloy) in a rolla. I might get you to do a quick de-breif for the FAQ when you're done. :lol:

Although the KE1X's had a smaller input shaft they still had a 180mm clutch plate, so I see no reason why you couldn't just use the early clutch disc between a later FW and PP. :lol:

:lol: Might need to get something custom made to suit.

Just get a K series electronic dizzy. Can buy them new from KE Motorsport in the commercial trader section at the mo. Then chuck some b7es (or maybe b6es) plugs in it. :lol:

There's a manifold gasket in this lot.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Corona-Hiace...=item3f00264c0a ....looks very close. I just searched for 2R on ebay. :lol:

You obviously didn't search did you. In this case it was more of matter of scrolling down the first page of this section rather than actually searching. :( :lol:

A/R's aren't everything. :( The actual size and flow of the turbo are more important. If the turbo is too big (or too small - like a CT9 :lol: ) then no amount of A/R adjustment will correct it effectively. We need a bit more info on the turbo Mitch, or maybe a pic? Also remember that deisel turbos are only really designed to flow up to 2000-5000rpm. You heard anything more about whats happening with your old car Matt? Is the guy who bought it re-shelling the turbo motor?

+1 There were some new cores on ebay a while ago, just had a look and they're not at the mo. Check with some radiator shops, they might still be able to get new ones.

I think they might but not 100%. I know they're different from the parcel shelf up.

I don't know if thats right Evan. Not saying you're wrong but do you have a haynes scan or something to show that? Yeah retarding mate. Retarding the timing effectively 'lowers the CR at the time of firing'. More boost you run the more timing yuou need to pull out. I honestly wouldn't bother with any sort of de-comp plate, it'll just double your chances of a HG failure and screw up the squelch of the cylinder. Fire away when you need help. I don't mind answering specific questions, just don't ask for like a full run down. I'm slowly working on a new "Boosted K motors" FAQ section too btw. :lol:

Yep. I did score a bargain though.... right place,..... right time. I'd been helping a guy with his turbo'd A12 at the time so he sold it to me cheap to say thanks. Wolf 3d V4, was a few years old but still un-used, in a box with sensors, laptop cables, hand controller, memory cartridge and a brand new un-touched full loom!!! :lol:

More than it could have*. I spent more on quality or "make my life easier in the future" products like the speedflow fittings, all turbosmart cooler hoses, big heavy duty hose clamps, little wanky bits etc etc. Daims build is pretty much the same quality build though. There's no way in hell I would have spend anywhere near what he did though as he also had to buy the engine itself, plus the 20V head (well to be fair I bought a 5k - $350, plus a 3kbp head - $100) itself and a few other bits. He also bought his ECU for like $1700 when mine isn't that much older and I spent $300!!!! If I had of done a buget/quality build I would have easily gotten away with $2.5-3k Biggest expenses were: EFI manifold - $250 ECU - $300 Turbo manifold - $700 Cooler and piping - $400 Turbo - $250 + the usual nick-nacks.

I haven't been on the rollers again since my initial tune. With the 18psi'ish I'm running now the "Bumometre" would say about 130-140rwkw. Daims would probably be pushing close to 180rwkw with the 20+psi but his hasn't been on a dyno lately either.

Also might be Centreline "Break warmers"

haha thats the easy bit!!!

Maybe you should compare my build to Daim's turbo 20v then Sam. Noticed you've been in his AE86 thread lately. Both motors were built around the same time, similar sort of mods (including turbo's on originally NA motors), and both have run in the 20+psi range. In the last 2 years he's now blown 2x motors. I've blown nothing more than a manifold gasket or two...... oh and a cooler pipe!!! :y: :P

Don't need a thick headgasket, just a stock toyota one. Playing with the timing will stop you blowing HG's. :P

Chuck us up some part numbers before you throw away the packaging! :P

It should have been doing more than just leaning out, it should have been braking down all together as the fuel was being pushed back to the tank! BTW I think the falcon ones are more like 36/36 or maybe even 36/38 ish

Yeah adjust ALL of the tappets to 8 thou inlet and 12 thou ex (HOT..... or cold clearnaces are in the FAQ) and re-test all of the cylinders again. 150psi sounds worn but ok as altezzaclub said but that numbers pretty useless without some other cylinders to compare it too. :P

5k's came in KM36 Liteaces, but as felix said I don't think the US of A's got them. There was also a Karina that had a 5k in it but probably the same deal. Theoretically, if you ground the 5KXXXXX engine number off and re-stamped it with a 3KXXXXX number nobody would notice (from the top side) what you've done. If you jacked up the car and looked at the sump, only a very keen eye (trained in K's) would pick the fact that the sump is slightly deeper and has 4x more bolts than the 3k one. ......but we don't condone cheating here at rollaclub!! :P

Is that just the stock 30/55 shifter position? And how's the tunnel clearance?

Did you know littleredspirit is chasing a A-K50 mate?

:P Its all in the offset.

You don't need to use a crank trigger for ECU controlled ignition! :P I'm just using an external ignitor K series electronic dizzy. This gives out a "single pulse" trigger to the ECU (just the same as the crank wheel described would) then the ECU adjusts the timing and gives a trigger to the ignitor to fir the coil.