Taz_Rx

^I reckon he's on the money. If you use a test light to find an earth for head unit install, you may accidently think the park (dash) light wire is an earth. Remove it and earth straight to some metal in the dash somewhere and you might be right. :D

haha Yes I do like!!! Very cool. :D My guess would be straight lines Red. It would have a manual if it was a track car.

Any plans to reproduce them for sale though? Then you might re-coupe some of the labour you would have spent on it.

Care to share? I wouldn't mind putting a restraint clip in mine. Everytime I see your thread title I think of this song..... :D

Hey Roger. We went to NZ a couple of years ago and Caldinas are like commodores over there so she's seen plenty in person. Unfortunely she just doesn't like them as much as I do. Has her mind set on a 3 series beamer or an altezza for some unknown reason! ;) Had no ideal there was so many in the state already, as seen above I thought you had the only one. Let me now if you ever hear of one for sale in the state. :D Did you hear anything back about the RB beamer Rob?

You were going to go 4afe weren't you?...... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=41881

Your 3tc would appreciate it a lot more if you fed it with 2x weber's/dell's/solex's instead of just one. :blinks:

Interesting. Is that still allowd within the rules? Much easier than changing LCA and also having to do something about steering.

Some rotor pics from another forum.... Results.... 1st was the Cyber Evo from Japan - one very wide Lancer 2nd was the Sierra Sierra Evo from the USA 3rd was the Tomei/Cusco WRX from Japan.

Only the 3k mounts as suspected sorry Leigh. Hit up Ben's K series graveyard and retirement home. :blinks:

I have moved it to the Tas section for you. Welcome to rollaclub. :blinks:

Yeah I recently heard that you can't get 12a rotor housings any more. Slightly worrying for anybody with a hypo 12a. Given you can't go 13bt, maybe you should re-consider the NA ported 13b again!?

I only spaced UP the passenger side mounts a little, so the engine is also sitting slightly higher overall.

No worries mate. Actually thinging about it - I think I might only have the engine mounts from your old 3k left, and they're different to 4/5k ones. I'll still check though. Ben might be to go as he has a small 4k graveyard in his backyard at the mo!! :yes: You know where to find me so pop round and chat about Xke's. :happy:

Send me an SMS early this evening to remind me to have a look for you mate. :happy:

FYI WPN36 - My engine is actually slightly uprighted (like maybe 5 degrees) just to get a little more clearance between the turbo and chassis rail.

Then what do you do about a clutch fork and the hole that it pokes through!?

Most 4k/5k manifolds also have a little bolt to block up a hole in the manifold (runner to # 1 or 2). You could also remove that, put in a little fitting and run it as a dedicated vacuum guage feed. Thats where I use to run my boost guage and BOV for the carby setup from. Follow the BOV line to the manifold. :happy:

Vids?

4k head on a 5k block will lower the CR to around 8:1. For 11'ish:1 CR you'll need to use the 5k head and plane it considerably.

Just on any "post butterfly" (after carby) vacuum source.

Ok, to help get your head around it a little more - All an ignitor really is is a fast switching, high voltage, earthing relay. When used on a carby engine (like a 4k) - its needed to earth the coil, when directed to by an electronic pulse from the elec dizzy, as the elec dizzy doesn't earth itself out like the points dizzy does. When used on and EFI engine - When running ECU controlled ignition the elec dizzy/CAS gives the same sort of electronic pulse to the ECU as above. The ECU can then manipulate the timing and give out another delayed/advanced pulse for the ignitor to fire the coil. The ECU needs to earth the coil to fire it, and if it earthed through the ECU it would be giving the ECU the discharge voltage of the coil....... which will quickly fry your ECU. So all the ignitor does in the case is take the pulse from the ECU and ground the coil directly to an earth - exactly like powering something with a relay from a given trigger. So what I'm getting at is you just need an ignitor. Doesn't matter what its really from as they all do the same thing. Working out what wires are what in/out of the ignitor would be the next problem though.

You couldn't hunt him down on a skyline forum?

Just keep an eye out for one for sale here, come up from time to time. And yes you'll need an ignitor too.

Yeah they do "TRD uprighted K-T's". But they're the rarest of all of the K-T's. Put it this way - we can't even get a pic of one for the FAQ!!!! Pretty much everything else in the TRD kits would be exceptably easy and cheap to re-produce.