Taz_Rx

If they have any KR townaces. Another member here bought the Tomei's (they're just aftermarket A12 ones) and didn't end up building the project they were for so he sold them to me. Sorry don't know where he got them from. No oil pressure probs at all. I run between 60-80psi while going for it and it'll drop to 20psi at idle.

And having a locked dizzy doesn't help one bit trying to start on cold mornings. :bash:

Yeah I've got chev lifter and A12 (Tomei chrome moly :bash: ) pushrods. Try some commercial wreckers (vans and trucks) and ask if they have any KR42R twonaces to try and get a 7ke manifold. 4ke setups are way overpriced and frankly shit.

:bash: You can actually bolt a 3/4/5k head on a 7k. There's just 3x extra bolts on the spark plug side edge of the head on the 7k, but you could get away with not putting these in as they don't take load like the head studs.

5k and 4ke are both dished piston motors, hence using a 4ke head on the 5k (or vice versa) will give you basically stock CR. Using a flat top piston head on a dished piston motor however will give you compression chambers in both the head and piston, and hence will lower the CR. A 3k head on a 5k will be around 8-8.5:1 and using a 4k head on a 5k will drop it to around 7.8'ish-8:1 Running either the 3k or 4k head on the 5k will also require changing to solid lifters.

A 4ke has dished piston, hence there is less compression chamber in the head. If you put a 4ke head on a 4kc then you'd actually increase the CR which is not what you want for a forced induction motor. If you put the 4kc head however on the 4ke theis would give you a boost friendly motor. I used to boost an internally stock 4k to 15psi and never had no real issues so if you want to stay with the 4k (instead of say going for a 5k) then leave it as it is. As for the head gasket, you can't really run a copper gasket unless you o-ring the block/head. And running 2x of any gasket is a really bad idea. There isn't a Cometic or anything you can get for a K series (trust me I enquired about it) but honestly I think the best gasket you can run is a genuine toyota one. Combine that with some ARP head studs and you should be fine. This is what I'm running (gen toyota gasket and ARP's) and I've boosted this motor to over 20psi.

It's wider at the bottom, not at the top. :bash:

Sure is. You think it looks old skool now.... Its actually one of the oldest drag strips in Aus!!!! http://www.tdra.info/History/index.html .....and hence is in serious need of re-sealing. Man you should see what the runoff section is like. Screw doing 150+mph over that. :bash:

Yes mate ALL K series starters are interchangable. :bash: If you're going to buy a new one then I would recommend getting the reduction drive starter that is listed for the 5k-J or 4k-J. I know that its in the Ashdown Ingrams catalogue.

Yes either mod the sump or cross member as they'll foul. Issue is casued by the longer stroke (swinging in the sump) of the 7k. No you can't use any other K motor sump on the 7k as the bottom of the block is also slightly wider.

You're not listening. TRUST ME (i'm not a tech mod for nothing) THAT IS A 3KBP head. This is identifiable for several reason as already covered. 1, the fact it has big ports 2, The welded up welsh plug in the back 3, the shitty old valve stem seals 4, the casting number in the head... regardless of what they are. Yes 3kbp's have bigger ports than 4k's (they wouldn't be called big ports otherwise). From memory the 3kpb ports are 32-33mm and 4k ones are 27-28mm.

The mcdonalds bro clip is designed for drag racing. Hence it would probably give you as much body roll as the stock setup. Lowness isn't everthing. You can eliminate a lot of body roll while keep the car at stock height with the right setup. I'm assuming the wagon doesn't have a rea sway bar?

Similar...yet different. That Jaycar kit isn't a CDi unit to start with. Plus it doesn't have a vacuum port for an internal map sensor or equivalent so it can't retard timing in relation to boost pressure.

Hey buddy. Its really good that you've taken the time to write something up! :bash: But no offence, there's not a whole lot of accurate informative info there. Plus there's a few obvious errors. Hopefully I won't be very busy at work later this week so I might endevour to re-write/add to your thread. As for this... This make me think that you've never really used the search function here much. If you had of you would have found my thread.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=10940

Yeah mate still a stock K diff with a peg leg, which is half the reason I couldn't get traction. I don't want to weld this diff as I'll most likely just snap axles. Rather just get my T series in it and an LSD. When its the only car around (at home) its seems loud. But then when you get it out there it then seems like one of the quietest cars out there.... apart from the gilmer drive. In the second vid you can't hear it over the 18 second honda!!! :bash:

Trust me, that is a 3k big port head. Somebody has obviously put the 3kbp head on a 4k bottom end (did you check the BLOCK engine number?) but just used the 4k intake manifold and carby on it. This explains why the manifold ports are smaller.

If you read the specs.... This mean that they are not an equivalent of an MSD 6a or Crane Hi-6, but they can be used in conjuction with one. Basically it just a high output coil.

Ahh that explains the price diff. Sorry I didn't really read the specs. Deffinately get the first one then. :)

Currently still have the stock K diff in it. Have a T18 T series shitting on the shed floor waiting for the coil mounts to be cut off it. Just need to get around to doing it. Tyres are Advan A032R(S) 206/50/R13 semi slicks, hence the short burnouts.

Yeah $700'ish seems to be the RRP..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MSD-6-BTM-ignition-...=item3a5a775559 HOWEVER, I've seen these slightly different ones selling for under $500..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/UNIVERSAL-BOOST-TIM...=item56393262d9

So went out to the drags on Saturday. Was hoping to try and do a high 13 with the T28 after doing a best of 14.5 with the T25G. Ended up only getting a best of 15.4 for the day. Last time I went out last year I couldn't get wheel spin on the launch to save my life. This time I couldn't get traction to save my life. Our track is pretty tempramental at times so I'm just going to blame that! :) I was doing some practice launches on the return road and it would hook in great, but get back on the strip and spin spin spin. I'm deffinatley running more power (as a screwed a bit more boost into it to) last time was probably around 110rwkw this time I'm estimating 130 odd, was maxing about 17psi. Was still doing the same sort of MPH over the line so this would have been a bit higher with some traction. Oh well. Already thinking about the 10/11 season test and tune. Would like to get my T series in and an lsd if I have funds at the time. Then my diff might also hold up to some MT ET streets. Also now seriously considering putting the .49 rear on the T28. Probably do that the next time I need a manifold gasket change. Here's a couple of pics and vids from Saturday..... "Banshee's" coon with Toy-yoda driving behind me

Get the leaves flat when they have weight on them and then get the eyes reversed.

:) Too much work, too much cash, too drag oriented.

Good decision, sorry I should have mentioned that in the above options. They're pretty expensive compared to say just a 6A but they would be nearly THE best option of fixing this issue.

Is that the one up the west coast somewhere? Going rate for good condition 7k's seems to be around $700+ so you draw your own conclusions!! And yes you can use a K50 or K40, you just need to use the 3/4k flywheel and clutch kit on the back of the 7k.