Taz_Rx

Yeay mate externally they look the same except the fact the single carb BP mani didn't have a brake booster line.

There was also a 3kbp that had a single carby. I had one of the manifolds off one but have no idea where it is now.

One of my mates has like 4x split windows in a paddock. ..... and No he doesn't want to sell any of them. :)

Ashtray? Doesn't appear to be one elsewhere. :)

Tires weren't really the problem..... the track was. I was soooo god damn slippery, hence why I couldn't get any traction to do better than the 15.4!! :) Little dissapointed in how I went really. Already half planning my assult on a 13 for next years season - Welded T series (or LSD if I have funds) .49 rear housing on the T28 and maybe a set of second hand mickey thompsons. Got any vids up yet Ben/Banshee?

Well I'm made some prgress...... just not on this. There was stuff I needed to get done to other cars over summer before I could move onto this. Had to get the mazda ready for SI rego, which is all done. Also wanted to get another turbo on Tar (cause the T25G was smokey as) and this took nearly 2 months longer than planned as I kept getting screwed around with turbos. I only just got this finished off last weekend and am now running an S14 T28 (the on I used to have on it). So basically I now have everything I wanted done before starting this. :) Next couple of small problems are: The fact that I lost my work van just before xmas, hence I've actually been using the zuk as a daily driver to work and back, as its so cheap on fuel. Next issue is how to get the wagon body on top of the chassis. I've sort of scapped the truss box idea. One of my mates in building a shed at the moment to build a race car in. As soon as its built he's buying some goodies to build his car, one of which will be a set of rotisseries stands. I'm thinking of using these so I can have both the wags body and zuk chassis next to each other in the shed. Then to put the body on you just push the body over the top of the chassis and drop it down. Only prob is I just need to wait for him to get the stands. ...so that's where I'm at.

I thought your name was Tom, not Chuck!? :) .....or Vin.

Yeah I've also got a 609. Good midrange cam.

7k's (e or c) aren't really all that cheap, you'd probably nearly spend as much as you would on a 4age. Hence I think you'd be better off making a choice on one of them for the longer run. The 7k isn't going to be as rev happy as a 4k (or 4age) but it will have more torque and power than the 4k. If you're thinking of supercharging it then the low rpm response of the charge would work well with the 7k's torque nature. Oh and yes pretty much all 4k stuff will bolt onto the 7k. Fitting the T series just requires cutting off the coil mounts and welding on some leaf ones, which isn't real hard at all. I think T18's had 2x piece tail shafts so you'd just be better off modding the uni/flange on the end of the stock tailshaft. I think people use T18 shafts as a "bolt in" type deal when putting a T series in a Ke70/AE71 as they basically have the same floor pan as the T18. As for the front struts, have a search for a thread by Falken_ke30 in regards to struts. I would be a waste of a good thread like that if you don't have a search for it. :)

http://cars.shop.ebay.com.au/Cars-Bikes-Bo...d=p3286.c0.m282 :) There's some trunk, door and F&R windscreen seals in that lot buddy.

Full stroke TRD 8 way adjustables. I want to swap them out for the same thing but in short stroke cause they've got too much pre-load. Oh and with these ranchos..... you might change your mind when you get a price for them. You might find for less money you can get some second hand (still good condition) TRD adjustables like what I want.

7 series are digital Slo. :) Yes I think its worth it. There's several areas where it is an improvement: Capacitive Discharge, Better starting as Tom mentioned, Much stronger spark in general, Multispark for 20* under certain RPMs and the soft touch rev limiter (chips are cheap). It will replace the ignitor you're using for the elec dizzy, and pretty easy to wire up. :P

You're also going to have to get yourself a set of extractors to run with these due to the "hot-box" flange - It has 2x bolts on either side were most stock manis only have 1x on one sdie an 2x on the other. No other ex mani (except the one it came with) will bolt onto it so its just easier to run extractors.

Yeah..... they can only afford corollas!! JK SA. :P

Ben's about to call you. :P

Locking the dizzy is just a matter of locking up the mechanical advancement weights under the elec points. Pull the top out of the dizzy and you'll find a couple of small springs holding the weights in, remove these and replace with tie-wire so the weights can't move. Recurving will give you better results because you have more correct bottom end, off boost timing. It can be a little time consuming and slightly expensive to setup cause you might want to do it 2-3 times to get it spot on. Locking can be done in under half an hour and for basically no cost.

Yes I'm still racing. Hadn't bothered putting anything up here as by the looks of it it'll be me and maybe Ben going out. Are you still keen Project_KE55? Meeting place might just be at my place. :P

Yes thats a Rancho part number. :P As Towe mentioned you need to check if they're a stock length or longer for raised suspension first. They'll actually fit pretty much all corollas from KE10, 20, 30, 55, k'sevs, AE86, T18 etc.

A normal (NA) ignition curve will have too much advance while on boost and most likely blow you some head gaskets. You have 3x main options to try and combat this: 1, Regraph the dizzy with much less top end advance 2, Retro fit a boost retard solenoid instead of the stock vac advance one 3, Lock the dizzy and run 20-25* static timing. This will "reduce the CR at the time of firing" but it doesn't help much in the bottom end or starting.

Speaking of timing what are you doing about some boost retarding? Are you just going to lock up the dizzy?

Well if you can't feel any play then now you're running the risk of having the diff shimmed up too tight. This is why you need to remember which one came from which side. Stock up on Bananas now!!! :)

Your flickering tacho would indicate that your points (or air gap if you have an elec dizzy) aren't fat enough.

But why would you bother when you can just use a 20V or other VVT engine like an SR20DEV or whatever they're called.

yes.... but you'd most likely also need to change the gear on the output shaft as well.

What, NO you shouldn't have any play in your axles. If you do it means the bearings aren't pressed on as they should be or the retainer bolts are loose. The play I'm talking about is between the crown wheel and pinion, aka diff slop.