Taz_Rx

You might find that the T25G (Thats what that turbo is) is a bit too low-mid RPM range oriented for a 4age. Having that mid range response is great yes, but the .49 rear housing really does restrict top end flow. For a 4AGE I think you'd be better off with a T28 or bigger (GT28R 2871R etc), then the efficiency range of the turbo will match up a lot better with the GE's revvie nature. I'm actually 4/5 of the way through swapping my T25G out for an S14 T28 which I had on my car last year. Put it this way - I haven't touched my shift light since going EFI etc. When I'm running the T25G I would only ever see the shift light with wheel spin. There was no point revving the motor out, you just better off cracking another gear and using that mid range power again. With the T28 and the same "spirited driving" I would see the shift light every gear change as it would just keep pulling harder and harder the more you revved it. The T28 obviously had about 1000rpm extra lag though. Just some food for though. Si. :laff:

No interior pics anyway.

Hey all, Last night my brother went to see one of his mates in Brighton and while he was inside somebody pinched his bike off the front lawn. :laff: Its a 6 month old Suzuki DRZ400 SM (super motard) blue and white in colour. Would only have around 5000km on it. Looks like this.... Thing that sucks is it was not insured due to his driving record. If anybody hears anything in Hobart or is offered a "to go to be true price" on a near brand new bike, please let me know. Cheers, Si.

I'm sure somebody does. ..... they just don't want a commodore. :laff: Is this car actually advertised on hmm maybe a commonwhore forum. You've been offering it for swaps here for ages, maybe its time to take the hint that nobody wants it!!! :D

Hold up - Nope. Cross-drilling also weakers rotors. Dissapate heat - Yeah a little bit Considering you've upgraded your go, personally I think you should also upgrade your woh! Upgrading to a bigger discs like corona/cressida/whatever will probably dissapate more heat that cross-drilling the stock ones will..... and then you also have the upgraded clamping force of the bigger caliper that goes with it.

sounds sort of like the secondary circuit in the carb is blocked and its not getting fuel through. Is it fine when you''re just using the primary circuit?

If you had sumitomos then you have JDM discs. Girlocks are ADM and have a discs which are 1mm thicker than the JDM's. 12mm vs 13mm from memory. If your current discs are good then I wouldn't worry about it. When/if you ever do want new rotors then get some ADM ones then. :dance:

Got a link? Cross drilling and slotting is only really for heat dissapation.

Just realised in the new pics its still in the engine bay,..... just not on the fire wall. :dance:

Hey sorry I forgot to reply on this earlier in the week. Have a look at this.... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-283089977.htm It makes me think why you would need to go twin charade carbs. I don't see why one wouldn't do if it was jetted/coked correctly. Trying to tune 2x carbs and get them synced up well is always going to be a lot more diffcult than just one. If you want to get really serious with blown-through carbs then you might want to look into sidedrafts. The Peurto Rican's use them on 3tc's etc and run 8-9 second quarters with them. I'm not too sure what needs to be done with them to make them boost friendly though. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=16233

Hmm that was really hard too....... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?a...%2Btwincharging I want my 5 seconds back. :dance:

But then they may ask why it was not made the comply with Australia standards when it was imported. :dance: I agree with Troy, they'll pick on the ride height way before they even notice the bumpers..... but I supoose that depends on how much air the bags have in them at the time! :)

....at the moment. We'll see what its like in 6 months!! :dance:

Those 1.8lt are pretty crap. Ex GF had a 30X, I drag raced it once and could get any better than a mid 16 IIRC. A mildy worked 4k can do that!!! We also spent a fortune on it as it kept blowing head gaskets.

And as I suggested before opening up your points a tad more will probably stop the jumping too....... which funnily enough would also only take 5 minutes. Was the "Borg warner" on a little metal tag as jono pictured? If not double check the tag.

Yeah I've got a rollmaster kit which I haven't installed yet (will get put in a new motor) and yes they're adjustable with keyway holes nearly the whole way round.

Agreed. Keep the 30 for daily duties and get a race/rally only import S13 for nix and thrash that on the track.

Cool, now its just "make shift slide hammer" time.

Yeah good point. Tie one end at a time to your mums hill hoist or something. :dance:

Is not that hard to find them. Find the hole we're talking about rotate the axle and you'll see 2x of them at a time.

Circle around what?

haha thats why you don'start writing a reply and finish it half an hour later!! There were no replies when I started.

Might be a stupid question but have you undone the axle retainer bolts inside the drum assembly? There's a copy of 30'ish mm holes in the axle mounting face to get a socket through onto them. There's 4x bolts on each axle. After this is done the still won't just pull out as the axle bearing is basically pressed in. To remove the axle get your drum and put it back on the BACKWARDS and then wind some wheel nuts back on a few turns - not all the way, you want the drum to be able to slide on the studs to use it as a slide hammer. Push it up agains the mounting face then pull back towards yourself vigorously. The axle should then pop out. If it doesn't, do the same thing with a wheel instead of the drum for a bit more weight and force.

Has the colt turbo got carbon seals?

So much for leaving the MC in hey!?