Taz_Rx

Yeah they're 4ku pistons. Aparently 4ku's (if it is the whole motor) had a bit more grunt than our ADM 4kc's.

You're probably reading from a 4k manual (is it a 4k bottom end? - Look for engine number). 4k's had either a blanking plate to block the hole, or a similar plate with a water outlet to the heater box on it.

Just saw these wheels on another forum.... :)

Actually forget my alternator trigger idea, cause the load of the starter motor will drop the volts down to like 8-10 while cranking so you won't get the 13+v to trigger the pump. :)

I going to agree with Philbey here and suggest some sort of ignition cut instead of a fuel cut, for several reasons: 1, It won't be instantanious as philbey mentioned. You're going to need to drian the float bowl before anything happens. Ignition cut will be instantanious. 2, For aguments sake lets say your flat to the boards around a corner so oil pressure drops a bit and triggers the fuel cut. Lets also forget about the float bowl for a second.... what effectively happen to your motor..... its leant out substantially.... at the same time its being starved of oil as well! Again, cutting the ignition won't have the same detramental effect on the motor. 3, As you've already worked out youself you're going to have a chain reaction of failure while trying to start the car and would need a bypass of the fuel cut to get it started, mind you this would be the same case if you did go for an ignition cut. Maybe an idea for the compulsary for cut you need would be to see if you can get some sort of trigger off the alternator so the fuel pump does switch on until it see 13+V!? That way when you try and start it the alternator will make some charge, switch on the fuel pump and away you.... in theory. At the end of the day this whole thing is just a band aid solution for the real problem..... the lack of baffeling and/or capacity in your sump.

Yeah was just about to say its a 3kbp. Ports (obviously) give it away but the other indicators are also the welsh plug and valve stem seals Felix mentioned. In terms of the VSS, you can get yourself some second hand or (preferable) new 4k style stem and fit them into the 3kbp head. Then you can use the much better design 4k type seals. Did you snap any bolts when taking out the 3x "hot-box" bolts were the inlet and ex manifolds bolt together? If you did I suggest trying to find some extractors for when you re-assemble.

Just drill and taps some holes to put some brass fitting in and away you go. I'd probably do both set of runners (1&2, 3&4) and T-piece them together but this isn't completely neccessary.

:) The reason they are different is because over time the diffs have worn differently and been re-shimmed to suit. I don't really think what you have done/are doing is a good idea. I would be tripple checking the diff play befor putting the backing plate back on. If the diff has too much play its just wear itself out completely in under 6 months.

Should get yourself a Starlet while you're over there! :)

More like what's it doing in Germany!? :wink:

I reckon it would be a pretty safe assumption. :wink: I know '55 are the same side to side.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6MkcfcIsWg...feature=related

Bloody nissans. :wink: Was watching the speed down the back straight..... 200, 210, 220.......WARNING! Clutch overheating!! Bugger me they change gears soooo quick though. That and the brake were amazing. Only car I've ever seen in Targa (apart from something in the touring or classis class) that still has the stock brakes on it!!! Even earlier GTR's and Evo's etc that came with brembos get turfed for AP's, G4's, Harrops etc.

:wink:

And the spiggot bearing won't be turning when the clutch is depressed as the input shaft isn't turning. It could also be the input shaft bearing in the gearbox.

Yeah so swap the whole (2 inch long) sender part that goes into the box. Were the cable attaches is the same on both.

Nah mate all pretty straight forward. See if someone can sell you a "conversion kit" maybe from a car being wrecked. That way you can get the gearbox itself, clutch and flywheel, and a pedal box.

The rings you speak of are shims to reduce play in the centre, and its pretty important to put them back in where they came from otherwise your diff will be setup incorrectly. If you didn't take notice of which was which I suppose you just going to have to install them each way and see which has less play in the diff.

Yes just drill out the spot weld to remove it. Then re-weld or put some bolts through the holes you drilled if you want to be able to take it off again to make engine removal easier.

You'll find the part numbers for the Rotors pads and MC in a PBR/DBA etc catalogue at your local auto parts store. You can put whatever seats you want in it with a little bit of enginuity. :wink:

The key barrel/steering lock is held onto the steering column with a couple of dome top nuts (security nuts - Don't have a socket head etc on them). They only way you'll get them out is to use a centre punch and a hammer, or try and cut a slot in them with a dremel or hacksaw blade and try and undo them with a screw driver.

I've got some S13 seats in my '55. As they are from a 2 door they fold forward so would be also well suited for a '35.

That sucks, will do mate. Got any pics of them?

Just kidding.... Just thought I'd let you guys know I had some laps around Symmons plain today....... .......in the Targa 2008 winning 09 GTR driven by Tony Quinn. That is all. :wink:

Was found in Gagebrook this afternoon. Luckily not burnt out. :laff: