Taz_Rx

haha You made my day to see i've convinced another rolla fan to NOT to use a 4age!!! :hmm: I've got nothing against 4ages, its just that 60-70% of RWD corolla seem to get them as a conversion. I just like being different. :yes:

You need to find out what the diametre of the gemi springs are and then go searching at the wreckers for a similar sized spring from something else. Comparing KE to Gemis is like comparing apples and oranges...... no scrap that...... apples and mushy old overripe bananas!!! :yes: :hmm:

Point taken. :yes: I should have thought more about using the 7ke dizzy and the fact that it still has a cap for spark distrobution. You would want to double check that the 7ke dizzy is infact dual pulse triggering otherwise there be no point in using it over a 5k elec dizzy. I actually have a custom made K series hall effects crank angle sensor in the shed which I've been contimplating using. It would be great to have the dual pulse to run sequential injection yes, but my problem is it doesn't have a cap for distro duties. I just don't know wheather its worth having to buy another 3x coils and ignitors to run a multi coil setup when the ignition could potentially punch more spark with a single coil, dizzy cap and an MSD 6A. The next thing that crosses my mind is just getting one of the digital 7 series units which can give me CDi to those 4x coils. :hmm: But thats another $1k odd. When I wired the ECU into the engine bay I though ahead a bit and wired the injectors for sequential, they're just set in the ECU config as batch for now. I also wired the 4x ignition triggers to where I would mount the 4x coils so I'm have ready for it already. I actually also wouldn't mind trying to find a set of the all-in-one coil/ignitor/plug lead split fire type coil packs you see on SR's, RB's etc buts a matter of finding something that will sit into the K plug tubes nicely.

Yeah mate ksev shock are near identicle to '55's :yes: Well infact rear shocks are basically interchangable from ke10 though 20's, 30's, 55's , 70's, AE86's, T18's etc etc. So bare in mind you can also use say TRD short stroke adjustables for an AE86.

Ok if you want to go draw though then your suggested carby location probably isn't the best idea. Reason is because you have a substantial UPHILL path for the fuel mix from the carby. While on boost it won't be a problem as it'll just be sucked through, but while just sitting ideling its quite possible you have fuel starting to pool in the piping elbox below the carb. How to fix it - Just mount the carby up in front of the turbo with a horizontal pipe into the turbo inlet. Using an SU or sidedraft weber would give you better clearance than a DD weber. FYI - I'm in the process of starting a new "Boost K motors" section in the FAQ. I've got a little bit of info there at the mo on superchargers and will be adding to it bit by bit when I get time. So keep an eye on that. :yes:

haha thats some funny shit. Try opening up the air gap in the elec dizzy (you are using an elec one aren't you?). You adjust it in just the same way as you would a set of points.

It basically just freezes it, IE makes its hard and brittle. Then you can just chip it off. At room temp its too tacky and you'd need to scrape it off. :yes:

You won't find a better HG than a genuine toyota ones. Would also reccomend sourceing some ARP head studs. Thats my current setup and its been good for 22psi+28* :yes:

A lot of older cars have the roof welded on at the tops of the pillars. You may have just found the stocko welds there. :yes:

:yes: That might sound a bit dodgey but its actually not such a bad idea. The chopping board (like a eurethane one) will have near the strength of steel, but it would be a hell of a lot easier to drill/cut into shape. As somebody said above you need to work out the difference in throw length between the short shift and stock ones. This will tell you how thick the spacer needs to be. Because of the way the shifters held in (circlip) the only place you can space it up is in the shifter housing, where you can see the cigarette packet sized opening below with 4x bolts. (thanks Evan for the pic :hmm: )....

More info? turbz or SC? Just put the boost guage in now (They're like $30) and let it just do vacuum duties in the meantime.

Blowing a gasket that quick isn't all that suprising..... it means you're not pulling enough timing out of it on boost. The HG is always the first thing to fail. Makke sure you have no more than about 25-30* of timing while on boost. Or start on 20 and slowly increase it. Oh and the head gasket doesn't have holes in the FRONT of it to try and promote water flow through the back of the head. Otherwise the water would take the path of less resistance and just loop around the front of the motor between the water pump and thermostat housing. :yes:

Nice work "Corey T" :yes:

Nope. :yes: An external ignitor elec dizzy will do the job just fine. I don't think he really needs to run sequential injection and quad coils, I'm tossing up weather its worth it myself. Think just keep the one coil and run an MSD unit. Just running "single pulse" triggering still enables you to run ECU controlled ignition provided the ECU can do it. Thats all you really need. Not going to argue the 7ke intake manifold is better. 4ke are sooooo overrated and over priced.... well this one isn't overpriced anyway.

:yes: At the moment I'm only going to leave this thread open so mr know-it-all ksev can explain the below claim. ....do you want a "Bang for buck" race?

^^^You probably find your lack of brakes and pulling to one side are one and the same problem. If it pulls to the left you'll probably find your right hand side caliper is a bit fooked. As Philbey mentioned it would most likely be the slides the calipers move on. They should be greased up.... but over time the rubber perishes, lets water in which rust the slides and jams up the caliper.

Procomp anything is shit. Are you using it on a worked or vertually stock motor? VPW rocket etc have a pretty big mark up on there MSD stuff so if you can get a trade/mates rate price somewhere you'll save heaps. I can get cost price plus freight from one of my mates whos a rocket and VPW dealer. I got him to get me a price on a 6al once and I would be looking at about $260 ish instead of the $380 odd RRP. See what you (Tom) can get one for, and if you want me to get you a price through my mate let me know. :jamie:

Yeah I'm with ya. :jamie: What like and SU? I just think for what you'll have to pay for the 4ke gear and what you want to do with it, YOU could make a better flowing manifold for a 1/4 of the cost.

Yeah if you go with the assumption that anything inside the motor ISN'T interchangable, but everything that bolt onto the outside of the motor IS, you should be sorted. :jamie: I paid $350 for good condition running motor.

Haha you know where my votes at mate. I'm a little suprised you're even considering the old boosted K considering the xKTx vs 4AG discussion we've had in years gone by. I've got no doubt though if you did go down the boosted K route you wouldn't be dissapointed though. You just got to look at the dyno print outs for some of the guys who done 4A conversions getting 60-70kw at the wheels. I got the with the old TD04-L 4ktc setup on only 8psi!! And I've never done any damage to motors running 15psi. I would it up to around 18psi for last weeks trip out to the dragway...... which would have been half my traction trouble. :blush: :lol: I don't quite understand what you mean with the 4ke manifold though. How much of the 4ke mani would you use and where about would you mount the carby off it? Personally I think the 4ke manifolds are way over rated. Given that they're not real common they sell for more than they're worth (like $500'ish compared to the $250 I paid for my 7ke mani) and then the fact that they're so restrictive (mainly the throttle body) compared to the 7ke I would never use one. If you just plan on using a down draft weber then using a stock inlet mani with an adapter plate doesn't take up all that much room. If you mounted the turbo in much the same spot as my TD04-L then you still have enough room for the dump pipe etc. Given your fab skill maybe you would be better off just making a new inlet mani to bring the carby a bit closer to the head. Being able to make your own ex mani is deffinately a huge advantage to you. Mine was the single most expensive item of my whole build. I don't like the think about it too much :) but mine cost me just over $700 by the time they also modified my dump pipe. I just make myself feel better by thinking that I have one of the best K series turbo exhaust manifolds in the world!!! :lol: Do yourself a favour though and make your runners a bit bigger diametre than what mine is. Go with about the same as what most extractors are like 1"ish. Also with your turbo choice, from personal experience I wouldn't use a z32 T25, they probably actually closer to an ET/EXA T2 rather than a CA/SR T25. They also have a smaller 4x bolt exhasut housing like an ET rather than the 5x bolt T25/28 flange. Given the boost response (full boost by like 3000-3500rpm) of my T25G and resulting top end restriction I imagine that the Z32 T25 would hold you back considerable. Yes it would be a low RPM torque monster but there would be no point revving it past 4500-5000rpm. If you did go with a convetional CA/SR T25 then 1, you have much nicer power range with more usable top end. 2, If you shit a turbo it'll be much easier to find a replacement (with 5x bolt flange) and 3, (this is mainly the 5x bolt dump pipe flange again) you have a lot more direct bolt in upgrades in the future should you want to get a bit more serious. Say like that GT series turbo you had at one stage. Oh just and FYI the skyline GTR (twin) T28's also have a 5 bolt flange but its different to the CA/SR flange (I can give you a pic of this) so if you used one of these (would be well matched for the 1300cc 4k flowing half of an 2600cc RB26) and then wanted to use a CA/SR one you have to change the dump pipe flange. Well there's some food for though for a while. Hit me up if you've got an Q's. Oh and...... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-288076347.htm and remember :rolls: :jamie:

Have a look in the "4k trike" thread in technical builds, I've just been discussing it with him. He's taking the most expensive option (but also the best for performance) of using and MSD 6BTM (boost timing master). :jamie:

I got them for $90 posted. I think they're small block chev ones, but I'm really not 100%. I bought them from a RC member who sourced them somewhere. ...sorry I know I'm not being overly helpful here.

If they have any KR townaces. Another member here bought the Tomei's (they're just aftermarket A12 ones) and didn't end up building the project they were for so he sold them to me. Sorry don't know where he got them from. No oil pressure probs at all. I run between 60-80psi while going for it and it'll drop to 20psi at idle.

And having a locked dizzy doesn't help one bit trying to start on cold mornings. :bash:

Yeah I've got chev lifter and A12 (Tomei chrome moly :bash: ) pushrods. Try some commercial wreckers (vans and trucks) and ask if they have any KR42R twonaces to try and get a 7ke manifold. 4ke setups are way overpriced and frankly shit.