Taz_Rx

Posting them isn't a prob. You get yourself a quote for freight though. My post cose is 7250. $250 without tyres for cheaper postage if you want.

Using a 5k as a compromise between torque and top end. Yes I could probably get a bit more bottom end with the 7k, but I'd also loose the "rev happy'ness" of the 5k. Rev limiters currently set to 7500rpm. Yes the Gilmours are K specific. They were made as part of a group buy nearly a couple of years ago through Endevour engineering in NZ. After the group buy they actually put them into normal production though and they can be had off trademe. Little bit more than what we paid...... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-294405701.htm Pulled my Kouki T series diff apart yesterday to clean it up ready to have the coil mounts ground off. I was very suprised at something I found when doing it........ Did anybody know that a Kouki T diff has smaller axles than a stock KE55 diff!!!??? I sat them side by side and the K one did look slightly bigger. So I tried to put the K axle in the Kouki centre..... and it wouldn't fit. Then tried to put the kouki axle in a K centre....... and it did fit..... and then turned inside the spline! :) Might try and take a pic of each side by side.

Small update: I've had some Pedders Gas shocks laying around for about 18 months now with the intention of putting them in Dirt (as I'd like som koni's for Tar), but now that I've basically decided to "wreck" Dirt there's no point..... so I put them in Tar on the weekend.... well tried to anyway. :D When I bought the shocks I didn't realise that I should have got the propper pedders gland nuts for them as you can't use the wet legs ones. Managed to sort that issue and got the propper ones. Big thanks to Mark (ke20rolla) at pedders for sorting this for me. So now they're in I took it for a drive last night and :abuse: .....I had no idea just how rooted my wet legs were!!! :P Its soooo much smoother in the front end now. Handles even more like a gokart too. I think the only reason it handled as well as it did before was the advans.

I don't know heaps about KE1X and KE2X chassis' so you wouldn't have got an accurate response like that from Philbey if you did. Plus you tend to ask them during business hours while I'm online :abuse:

Moving to "RA28GT forum" :abuse: Is said vid already on youtube?

Not the engine no. Sorry jono I misunderstood your initial question. Numbers have nothing to do with the motor.

Oops, true. Ok so lets assume the 8cc give 10.5:1 provided this A 3kbp head has a bigger combustion chamber (in the head) than a 5k head right? is right..... So how does the CR go stay the same when the combustion chamber volume in increased!? I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm honestly interested!? The only part of the bottom end I'm taking into consideration is my assumptions* is the dish (or lack of) in the piston. *Assumptions are the mother of all f-ups!! :abuse:

No I didn't. A 3kbp head has a bigger combustion chamber (in the head) than a 5k head right? Stock 5k CR is 9.5:1 IIRC? So how does the CR go UP when the combustion chamber volume in increased!?

I think you'd need to anodise some other parts to try and tie in the colour a little.

Here comes the aeroplane! :abuse: ..... http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...r_vehicles2.pdf

Yeah for sure mate :abuse: .......@ 25,000rpm maybe!!! :P

Nah mate. 3k's had flat top piston...... ie 0cc of dish in the piston compared to the 8cc with the "O-dish" 5k pistons. Hence you'd end up with more like 8.5:1 CR.

Check with the RTA in your given state. :abuse:

Yep, thats the first issue. I've also found 3x different types of pump PCD's/Centre holes being KE10, KE30-55 & KE70. The distance from the pump mounting face to the front of the pulley mounting face varies between then all. HOWEVER, if you use the matching pulley from the pump then the V-belt grooves all line up with the same crank pulley. Easiest way to get yourself into trouble here would be to use say a KE55 style pump with a KE70 pulley, then the pump belt groove would be too far towards the motor. The second issue is even if you have the right pump (PCD wise) the heater hose in/outlets still vary quite a bit. For example the earlier KE55's (without rear swaybars - round headlights) had a heater hose coming out of the back of the head. The later KE55's (with square headlights) had a plate on the back of the head and this outlet then came from the thermostat housing. Then becuase the location of this outlet was different the bypass hose was also different being 3/8 rather than 1/2 IIRC. So yeah, thats why I just asked for a pic, then it would be sooo much easier to identify a replacement. I going to hazard a guess that the one you've pictured in the ebay is actually a KE70 pump. If this is the case you'll have to try and find a KE70 pulley, plus your bypass valve will be 1/2" out of the thermostat and 3/8 into the pump. Let me know if I'm right. :abuse:

No. With ALL toyotas the first letter in the chassis code indicates what engine it has. IE KE10 has a K series motor, RA65 and RA63 celicas both have R series motors, JZA80 supras have a JZ series motor.....etc etc etc.

Anythings possible with enough coin, knowhow, patience and sometimes stupidity. :abuse:

Because its a dished piston motor it has a head with a shallow combustion chamber just like a 5k head. Using a normal 3/4k flat top piston head will give you a low CR.

I'll just lock the thread befor you do. :abuse: Click "Tar" in my sig. Feel free to ask questions in that thread. I am also in the process of starting a new FAQ section for "Boosted K motors". It's a work in progress, just need some time to add to it.

Had that exact problem before. I hear it helps if you actually have 4x spider gears for some reason! :abuse: FYI a diff like that is still usable. Just weld the big spider gears to the housing and it'll still make an ok locker. Better if you can make some plates to drop into the wnidows and weld them to both gears though.

Yeah not only is the configuration of hose in/oulets different, but the bolt pattern to the engine fan can differ also. The 3k in the KE50 would be the same fan PCD as a KE30/55. As ke70Dave illuded to a KE70 has a different fan PCD as the were the first K's with a viscous fan. Can you get us a pic of the pump on the motor now?

Spend 5 minutes here and see if you can work it out..... http://clutchfinder.exedy.com.au/ :abuse:

On the spark plug side of the head there is one or more little indents in the bottom face of the head. They're there so when removing the head you can remove the bolts and stick a screw driver in the leaverage hole to 'level' the head off the block. Have a look and you'll see what we're talking about. You can go pretty big with both inlet and ex ports before you'll grind through a water jacket. Be aware that's there's not a lot of point in increasing the size of the ports without also increasing the size of the valves though.

Yeah I see ministock stuff all the time when having a browse for K series stuff on trademe. They do look a bit more serious than our junior speedway cars though.

Mate. Assumption is the mother of all f@$kups. ;) Jaygore - Maybe have a look on ausrotary.com as all old skool mazdas R100's, RX2/3/4/7, 323, 626, 929 etc etc etc have 4x110 stud pattern and about the same offset as a ke20. :D You might find more 17's than 15's though.