Taz_Rx

Agreed. If you weren't monitoring how much water you were pouring into it you would have kept topping it up unitl it filled the ENTIRE motor and started dribbling back out of the PCV valves etc. That would really suck.

Use the search function and I can garentee you'll find something helpful. :wink:

Fixed :wink:

Ausrotary.com .......only like a million times more tech article than here!

haha I actually logged on today just for the purpose of correcting myself about those bearings. It's been a few years since I re-built that gearbox and couldn't quite remember what the problem was. Anyway I checked the layshaft last night I remembered they DO have some needle bearings races in each end of the layshaft. The problem I couldn't remember was that they have a pretty poor bearing design, and its the actual bearing which eats into the shaft it runs on. I'll try and find the shaft I had to get pressed out to show you just how much they bugger the shaft.

Theres a few different type of K series timing cover/crank pulleys and they have the timing marks in different spots. Its inperative that you use a matching pair of cover/pulley for the timing marks to be correct.

Corolla or corona? There was never a 6 cylinder corolla. ....either way put your flame suit on. :yes:

Yeah,..... but what are you looking at doing next!? :D IMHO if you only need to pay an extra $50-$100 to get an ECU with ignition control you'd be silly not to. It would make a bit difference in tuning scope. All you need for an ignition trigger to the ECU is an external ignitor electronic dizzy. That then gives a pulse to the ECU, which it can advance or retard, and then send a "fire" pulse to the coil via an ignitor.

Yeah take the lot in like dave said. If you ask really nicely they might even remove the snapped off bit for you. :yes:

I'll see what I can do for you. One of my friends is building a S1 race car. To be honest I reckon you'd be better off converting to the whole S1 strut rather than trying to slip some RX7 konis* into a corolla strut. S1 front brakes aren't too bad and would be a decent upgrade for you KE1X. *assuming this is why you're looking at them?

Pitman arm is part of the steering, nothing to do with the engine. You could get one off another car, but being the same age its highly likely to be just as rooted. Just get a new one, they're not overly expensive. Somewhere like pedders should be able to get you one. If you haven't got a whole lot of mechanical experience then I'd say leave it for a mechanic. :yes:

So much work and its still a piece of shit!!! :yes:

^in his location. However I know Finn wasn't very clear in his question though. He might be talking about this one....... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showuser=5925

I'mm 99.9% sure they don't have bearings, well I didn't have a whole lot of needle bearing fall out anyway. I will double check tonight though. The reason I had to get the shaft pressed out was because the layshaft ate into it and caused some burrs so it was fouling on the housing. Why was this thread locked btw? :yes:

Yeah man, they're pretty much an import Tarago. Little bit smaller though apparently. Some people just have no idea. :yes:

I mentioned it in Evan's thread. Like I said there I never seen it myself I only been told about it. Its something to do with the heat cycles the metal goes through getting super hot and then cooling every time you drive it. +1 for HPC coating..... if you can afford it!

Also not a bad idea to remove the crown wheel. Otherwise it can get little bit of slag on it..... which the pinion won't like much. :yes:

I personally wouldn't get rid of the stock oil pressure light on the dash when fitting an oil pressure guage, just for some extra piece of mind. It lights up right in front of you and is hard to miss. No oil pressure is the easiest way to kill a motor. Either use a stainless steel t-piece so it won't crack like that, or maybe see if you can get an oil pressure guage that still has a 'no pressure' light in it like a shift light.

Did the Lucida hit V-tech!? :yes:

Yeah I'd be more inclined to remove the oil filter mount from the motor to try and remove it, then you don't have to worry about the brass filings Dave mentioned. It really doesn't matter how you get it out in that case. An "easy-out" would most likely work.

Ah the good old fatigued and crack brass fitting. Unplug the senders in the second pick and take the whole lot to somewhere like enzed, hydriquip etc. They'll then give you a new T-piece..... prefferably in stainless steel so it won't crack again. :yes:

haha you're nearly half way there then. Mines a 7ke manifold. The other ones you've seen that hang over the top of the motor are 4ke manifolds.

Ah yeah right...... enlargable pics. :yes: I thought it might have said "Levin" as was getting confused.

PM, or in that case U2U sent. :yes: