Trev

Explain why the bottom hose is always the hottest and why the thermo fan switch opens when the water is released from the thermostat which is between the thermostat and radiator. It is not a commodore Ian.

I never said that the wiring is hard It is more of a pain to make a fwd wiring loom to suit a rwd conversion (wants smallport) and run a fuel system to to be compatible with the efi. jono1986, I am not f@$king stupid when it comes to wiring, I have made looms before including converting my 82 fwd loom to rwd. I don't know where everyone gets the 'carbies are unreliable' theory from, it is not a holley carb, if you go to a weber then all the tuning is on the inside of the carb.

For simplicity of the install and go the carbs. EFI tends to be more of a pain with fuel lines and the wiring.

POS, if it was any good then they would of made a few of them :laff:

I think I will risk it and keep this open until the weekend.

Oh hell yeah :o Where are pics of your commuter huh vito :P

No, I was talking about the engine, the radiator is out at the top and in at the bottom so the bottom hose will be hotter. With the 4a system, the engine brings in water at the top, heats it up and sends it out at the bottom. The AE8/9 series is a up/down radiator.

With summer coming and a few threads popping up about cars running hot I thought I would post up how I always have/had flushed my cooling systems, next time I do a flush I will get a step by step photo guide. 1. Turn cabin temp to hot. 2. Undo drain cock. 3. Pull the heater hose off of the top of the thermostat housing. 4. Insert hose into heater hose and turn on. 5. Let the water run out of the heater pipe until clear. 6. Once the water is running clean use your finger to block the heater pipe on the thermostat housing so the water backflows through the engine. 7. Once the water from the drain cock is running clear turn the tap on a steady rate so that the water fills the raditor and over flowa. 8. Do up the drain cock and with the water running quickly pull the hose out of the heater hose and put it on the heater pipe to minimise the air bleeding period. 9. Doing this should of leaked enough water out for you to add a concentrated coolant to the system. 10. With the cap off and the cabin temp set to hot run the engine until both radiator hoses and both heater hoses (if applicable) are around the same temp, keep an eye on the water level while doing this

Didn't notice this thread, the fwd 4a water system flows in at the top and out at the bottom not like the rwd system Dave posted, to flush mine out I do the following: 1. Turn cabin temp to hot. 2. Undo drain cock. 3. Pull the heater hose off of the top of the thermostat housing. 4. Insert hose into heater hose and turn on. 5. Let the water run out of the heater pipe until clear. 6. Once the water is running clean use your finger to block the heater pipe on the thermostat housing so the water backflows through the engine. 7. Once the water from the drain cock is running clear turn the tap on a steady rate so that the water fills the raditor and over flowa. 8. Do up the drain cock and with the water running quickly pull the hose out of the heater hose and put it on the heater pipe to minimise the air bleeding period. 9. Doing this should of leaked enough water out for you to add a concentrated coolant to the system. Edit: Should add the bleeding cycle. 10. With the cap off and the cabin temp set to hot run the engine until both radiator hoses and both heater hoses (if applicable) are around the same temp, keep an eye on the water level while doing this.

Try gemini wagon.

Interested, see how I go closer to the date.

Not as yet, I thought I would let it run till tomorrow giving people a week to decide if they were going.

Didn't even think you were.

Just goes to show that an AE8* gets the girls.

Rollaclub discount punk.

19 members voted and yet 8 show that they are coming?

Well it is weird that you say it was under vacuum as the PCV gets rid of positive crankcase pressure along with any oil that goes with it but if this were the case then your dipstick would be blowing out, are you sure it is under vacuum though? Pressurising the seals would of forced them outwards making more of a seal but a different wear on the seal, taking the pressure away returns the seal to it's normal position allowing it to leak.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=34517&st=0&p=378597&fromsearch=1entry378597 You need to run the pcv tube to the intake pipe as close to the throttle body as possible. I would be inclined to change the seals.

I would be stripping the engine, honing it, bead blasting the pitons, re-ring and new bearings. The up/down marks will hone out, just gotta look for marks on the pistons.

Another happy previous K motor owner :laff: Sounds like a stuffed cap or blockage in the radiator.

This.

Sweet pics Tom.

I am out, 9th is my uncle's 50th, Some reason I thought the camping trip was for 10/11.

Mike, you are back. Get a pressure bleeder and see if you can suck the fluid out.

Pretty average.