Trev

Ha it reminds me of the 13B induction over the top of the engine, Nice :)

You would have to change your induction to the GZE intake as running ITB's would be hard with the charger mounted where it goes, After the questions you have asked i think you are going to be better off buying a smallport GZE halfcut and doing a full swap over and change the S/C pulley and doing the ABV (air bypass valve) mod, That way you will have more power than the 20v did.

Why wouldnt it work it is still a 4A series bottom end, You did sort out your pistons didnt you (not sure if the 5v pistons interfere with the 4v head), What ECU are you running with it? IMO i think you have an exhaust leak and the rushing out of the gases is making it sound like the induction and the detonation sound would be the crackle of unburnt fuel, I am running a 4A-C exhaust on my twincam (TC exhaust fuked up, only alternative as i had it sitting there) and it was slowish to rev before 3000rpm due to backpressure but i hit a rock the other day and put a hole in the exhaust and now it revs alot faster, As for the wheelspin, I have found it to be normal to get it in the Twincam (try to drive normal in the wet). There are a few more factors to look at tho, Air leaks (some CAN make the engine work better as it leans it out) and the timing belt could have jumped a tooth, Setting the 4AGE timing to the next mark will make more power but that could be where you are experiencing the detonation sound. Just a few things to look at.

Mc Hammer - You can't Touch This: Yeah... (Can't touch this) Look, man (Can't touch this) You better get hype, boy, because you know (Can't touch this) Ring the bell, school's back in Break it down! (Crazy bridge) Stop, Hammer time! You can't touch this (Repeat 3x) Break it down! (Same bridge) Stop, Hammer time!

Not sure.

Yeah it would of been better to get them as you get a better feeling ride as you don't have half compressed shocks, Just see about gettin some superlow struts.

Are they the standard size strut or did you get low struts as i can't make it out from superlow ke30 king springs and monroe GT gas shocks, Anyways if you only got standard struts there is a possibility that you have bottomed out the strut and bent the cartridge, This does happen alot and will reduce strut life, Otherwise i couldnt tell ya.

Good stuff and its a genuine JDM manifold :), Whatever you do don't buy the stainless log manifold that is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Coro...074491684QQrdZ1 I really don't think that it would flow all to well.

On my exa i ran a 2.5" dump pipe off the turbo (Turbo was a 2.3L diesel turbo and the dump pipe stopped under the start of the floor pan) which met up with 3" exhaust with a straight thru lukey turbo box, No mozzies in a milo tin and it flowed very good.

Just get the hose/pipe modified, Easy enough.

Post up a pic ol' Desa.

Nah even though it is easy enough he doesnt wanna do it.

Just incase someone didnt know what ceramic coating does: Pacemaker Headers - Ceramic Coating

Its a highmount turbo, the heat is above the starter and wont go near the starter housing unless u make some dumbass exhaust that goes to the front of the car.

Umm i think that the standard 4AGE exhaust would have more heat problems than this would.

Yeah it clears alot, Wouldnt be able to use it in a FWD as it sits so high, I love how the turbo sits non-parallel to the engine :jamie:

Ha i told you to leave earlier but no you had to hang out the washing, And i think we were going faster on the dirt road than we were on the hard stuff :jamie:

ok i took a pic of the manifold and turbo mounted on my other engine, From the pic I'm pretty sure you can work out how the engine sits in a RWD format, Dunno how good the pic will come up as it was done on my mates camera phone. P.S. The housing still has to be turned but i havnt got that far yet.

Is this what your after, Its of a 87-91 4AGE/ZE exhaust gasket sitting on the manifold, The pic is really shitty as i took it with a mini digital camera which a mobile phone takes a better pic.

Ha just relooked at my engine listings and it was the 3rd 1 down, Went straight past it.

Its a HKS manifold, I got it from a guy in the states brand new with a T25/28 (still havnt been identified) also brand new, I got it as i thought it might of worked in a FWD Format but the turbo hits the motor and then the radiator if you turn it around, I will try to get a pic of it mounted on the car tomorrow.

Ok so it was a Red top 100kw 16v :jamie: I just did a few measurements on my turbo manifold which i have had bolted to my bigport with no probs, All measurements are centre to centre. Pic:

Taken from your post (4AGE Turbo), One thing i don't understand is: (20 valve) (16 valve) So did you get a 20 valve and put a 16 valve head on it?

Get the extractors ceramic coated. :jamie:

So you have a 20v and i take it you bought a 16v manifold, You have to drill out the hole to make it fit a 20v.