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towe001

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Everything posted by towe001

  1. Bloody heck, wouldn't have guessed it would have been that simple. Do you remember how much longer the commodore arms to the rolla are ?
  2. Your doing it wrong Like, i've had my dads old '55 go from plow understeer into a massive tail slide into the bushes. And yet, the same round-about i'd take my old seca just that bit faster. Yeah sure the old cart springs can be made to handle but out of the box independent coil spring suspension wins hands down If it was me, i'd pick the '82 especially if i'd be wanting to take some runs through the twistys. I picked my '30 cause i love the shape of it, i wanted a car to be able to go to and from work in and an old school cruiser that i could have some fun in
  3. In the boot perhaps ?
  4. True as, bro :jamie: :blush:
  5. ae92 with a 4a-c interesting :jamie:
  6. Short answer - no. Long answer - I was lead to believe one time was that the ke3x series had both mounting points for the auto and manual. But now i've found out its only the early model ke3x that had both. From what i can understand yours would classed as the late model so it'd only have the points for the manual so you'll have to make up a cross-member that'll use the mounting points for the manual to fit the auto (eg - welding the auto x-member to the manual x-member). And cut a hole behind where the manual shifter pokes through for the auto shifter. Other then that its - flex plate torque converter drive shaft and i don't remember if the kick down is vacuum operated or if it uses a rod between the auto and carby. Oh and the auto is a trimatic. So have a google for it, there's some pretty good sites that'll give a good write up on the trimatic
  7. But the question is - cart springs or Independent coil spring suspension ? But i'm the same, i like the shape of both the '82 sedan and '30 sedan but i'm not so much a fan of the 4age anymore. V6 ae82 was the idea when i had the seca
  8. Unless the ke36 was an auto then it'll be in the right position
  9. Nothing that a fiberglass patch won't fix :bash:
  10. Looking in my Gregory's manual for the ke70 there, it appears, was three ratios - 3.89:1, 4.11:1, 4.30:1 Generally the manual's (4 speed and 5 speed) would have had the same ratio. The auto would have had a different ratio and the panel van would have had another ratio. You find the ratio (or rather the code) on the build plate and at most times it'll be on the diff housing as well as a tag.
  11. Well hand it this way, we'll put it to some good and fun uses. More then willing to pay for the postage :bash:
  12. :bash: yeah leave me alone i've got a man cold :bash: The calipers made for a solid rotor won't fit a vented rotor and the same can be said for rotors of different thicknesses yadda yadda yadda
  13. Way way to much hassle in converting the mcv20 rotors and calipers over to the ae82 Urm, your meaning the ae92 twincam yes ? Cause the single cam ae92 uses the same rotors as the 82 single cam. For a nice quick and easy brake upgrade is to, yes hunt down a wrecked '82 twinky and swap over the brakes front and back. I think the '92 twinky has different rear disc design, the rotors are the same but i think the hubs are different. Something even better for the front - ae93 twinky (258mm rotors) and their calipers if you can't find the calipers track down ae102 (not the ae101) or ae112. It'll all bolt up to the ae82 hubs etc. If your after a serious brake upgrade ae101 superstrut. Its not a bolt on fit and go. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthrea...ight=superstrut http://www.twincam.org/topic/1063-ae92-ae8...pgrade-options/ And for interest sake the twin piston caliper from the superstrut http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthrea...ight=superstrut www.dba.com.au and do some chasing - the important things you'll be looking for is the centre hole 54mm and the height of the rotor 48mm. That way you'll be able to keep the same struts and hubs for changing over the rotors and calipers.
  14. The series 2 t-18 did have the left hand mirror. I don't know about getting past the roadie with fender mirrors i do know (or at least from what i've read on the club) their frowned upon by the law
  15. Phucking Borrowers shuts me to tears some days and this is one of them. If your too young to know them - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118755/plotsummary One of my 6.5" speakers has taken a walk....
  16. Its called a bed of nails. And if you sat on one you too would levitate by the way my farts stink
  17. The roads are a little confusing but i don't think you'll be needing the Hitchhikers guidebook for the place :)
  18. Best of luck. My brother's hoping to get the call to tell him that he's going into the army in a few weeks. Wagga lol nice place but the place is just nuts i tell you nuts. Its one town that can't make its mind what the speed limit is - 50k limit on a 4 lane road whereas 60 on a residential back street, turn a corner and the posted limits are changed.... When you get some time off go up to the tv tower its good view of the city. Old rollas, you'll be pushing it, saw a few but it makes me wonder how the lads there get on with parts considering the wreckers i rang while i was there i got the feeling none of them even knew what a rwd corolla was lol
  19. Sorry mate i'll rephrase what i said Standard height (or extended) serria shocks is 415mm the standard shocks for the ke30/55 is 517mm Thats about 200mm (4inches) of difference and if you go that low the diff would most likely be sitting on the bump stops so something inbetween. But one thing you have to remember is that the rancho's are a 4wd off-road shockie which means their built 4wd tough, i don't really think it'd be something needed for a road car. But on that note if you can get them go for it. As for what to ask - 2in raised for a serria would be my guess. But a good shop will ask you questions on whats your intended use, be honest why your after them.
  20. Raised - standard height (or extended) is 415mm for the serria whereas 517mm for the corolla (ke55) At least thats what my Monroe catalogue tells me.
  21. The hose on top of the radiator trace that back to the motor and the alloy thing its fitted to thats where the thermostat is. - Tools, coolant, and a book (service/repair manual) on the car - Not on me, the book does but including a troubleshooting guide. - Let it sit over night. Check the coolant level when you get back to the car and replace it with just plain old water cause the head gasket will have died so the head will be coming off for a new gasket and a head repair. Remember this happening to my first car, but i was only about 2km from home. Dad towed the thing back home, he told me to let it sit over night and then go and check the car over - coolant level, oil level and take the oil cap off and have a look to see if there was any white/milky goop there. Needed a refill on the coolant and off i went back into town. What could have caused it 1. Loose fan belt (not turning the water pump and the fan not spinning) 2. Blockage in the radiator or possibly the motor. 3. Water pump old and needs replacing. Never ever run the motor or any motor with no thermostat. Its there to make sure every part of the head gets its fair share of coolant But as old Evan said if it happens again turn the heater up full - acts as a second radiator for the motor. On a late model car it does sweet phuck all but on a early model you'll see the temp drop.
  22. Yeah more or less its at Perseverance dam. Crows Nest side of the dam wall/bridge. Some of our friends have started to call him "Chucky" as in the Chucky doll
  23. No, i'm not drunk just proud of my new hat. Our electrician hard at work fixing the tv
  24. Most likely over the 100 mark for a 5 speed. And since you'll be swapping the auto over to the manual grab yourself the manual from a '70 it'll poke up through the hole left from the auto. One notable problem you'll find is the gearbox cross-member, ke55 auto (and from what i've also found out late ke30) will only have the mounting points for the auto x-member, so you'll have to figure out something for that manual x-member - like welding the auto member to the manual member. Tail shafts are different as well. Make sure you grab the speedo drive gear with the g'box. And the diff ratios are different between the auto and manual so your speedo will be out of wack.
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