towe001

Universal remotes that don't work for anything....

I think i might have to hit you up to see if you can find the engine manual for the 5k lol 70 bucks holy heck i think the most i've ever paid for a manual was $40 including postage

Meaning you can read it take photo copies of a few pages (10 i think is the maximum) but you can't take it out the door and take it home. By the way - is that an actual repair manual for the t-18 (cause if it is there'll be three books - one for the body, one for the chassis and one for the motor) or is it a Haynes with the picture of a t-18 on the cover ? Haynes No.961 Toyota Corolla 1980 thru 1987 All rear wheel drive models ? If its just for the motor go for the Toyota factory manual "T series engine repair manual". You'll hardly go back the gregorys nor the haynes manuals for the reference. You'll find them coming up on ebay a fair bit.

Me, i've mostly used a hacksaw blade. Have used a cut-off wheel for a dremel, drill bits etc. But from what i've found is that you've got to keep the plastic cool and not heat it up otherwise you'll end up having to use a file to get rid of the dags that have melted to the parts of the plastic you want to keep amongst other things.

Have you checked the fridge ??

No, not with sikaflex. Its not made for something like that. As long as not a bad leak i'd just degrease the engine before showing up for the roady and you'll be good to go.

I think i'd best be telling you to sit down firstly when i tell you about 8 grand after trade-in. But that was around 10 years ago. It included 12 months rego and a Ming anti-rust treatment, which i still think was done from a 450mL pressure pack, not two not four but just the one can of the rubbish. About three months later i was down in brissy at Breakfast Creek with the ex looking in a car yard and found the same model same colour etc etc but with 6 months rego from memory and it was about $990. I was dirty for the rest of the day. Not going to drop the name but i got from a well known dealer in Gympie.

Must have been the reason why i paid though the arse on my old series 2 t-18 cause of the factory left hand mirror

Power upgrade came in on thursday in the way of a 5k. Thank you very much Phatke20 (aka Doug) Now comes the next step - 5 speed manual or 3 speed trimatic Been trying to get an anchor point fitting into the car for my sons booster seat, but someone down the line, it seams, doesn't want to get off their arse and give me the paper work so that i can get it done.

14mm toe-out ?!? Would of had some pretty mad turn-in response. Thats just crazy. Whats the settings at now ? From memory mine was on the front - 0 toe and 1-2 deg extra camber. Back end was about 2mm total toe-out and standard (stock) camber. Was going to make up some castor plates for the front end but never got around to it.

Yeah i've noticed that. A nice big ol update would be pretty ideal. Some of the stuff that you've said can be found in the tech section

Looks like a hermit just crawled out from her box after a hard night on the turps Wack

What the ?? Girlie bits

Nope, miles longer then even the rolla sedan shocks

Paypal Paypal and ebay No longer can one pay for an item though paypal just from their bank account, it now has to be via a credit or debit-credit card....

My bastard borrowers could fill a page and a half on the shut they've pulled on me I've done the whole forgot to do up the oil cap thing after i'd done the oil change. Thought the motor sounded pretty good till i popped the hood.... Can't say it was a lost part but http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=m...rt=0#msg_497733 And one for the borrowers - My old ae82 seca, pulled into servo for fuel did what i've always done and put the fuel cap on the spoiler, went in to pay and forgot all about the cap till i got home traced my way back to servo for cap and no luck in finding it so i bought a new one. A few weeks later i had to pull the back seat up and there was the old cap....

Go on i dare ya she might just spank it for me :yes:

:yes: :hmm: :hmm:

Its all to do with the angles of the steering arms to the angles of the suspension arms and their hinge points. Its one of the reasons why the ae86's have the RCA's for is to correct the angles and reduce the bump steer etc. But anywhat, from what Johno said in his first post i'd reckon it'd be some thing to do with the castor angles. Positive castor brings in-stability, or rather the car doesn't feel stable - its steering to the left or to the right. Loose wheel nuts can also do something similar as i found out many blue moons ago

Yeah their shorter - not by much but, 497mm extended

Whats it like at car park speeds ? Should be heavy, real heavy thats typical fwd steering. Make sure they check the castor as well, you could have some positive castor happening. If its a bitch to turn when stationery but gets easier when your moving thats positive. It should get harder to turn as you move. Thinking about it and i'd more then likely say that'd be the problem. You can check it yourself just have a google on how to check the castor. Its fairly easy to diy.

Is that for the pump on the motor driven by the fan belt ? Or the thing on the steering rack ? The vacuum lines on the steering rack are there so that, basically, the more vacuum the motor sees (ie the faster your going) the less power assist you'll get on the steering. At least thats where the vacuum lines are on the ae82 - at the steering rack.

I'm with Trev on this - get a wheel alignment. Did you pull the gearbox out to help with swapping the motor over ? Most times torque steer is cause of the driveshafts being of different lengths and from memory the car should be pulling to the left when you plant the foot and by the sound of it you have a pretty bad case of toe out on the left side But If you've lowered the car you could have introduced some bump steer into the steering which is what your seeing when you go over a bump or a dip But Another thing with a fwd is that they tend to have a bit more toe-in on the front wheels cause the motor will want to force the wheels to toe-out when you accelerate. But Loose wheel nuts can cause a similar problems. So can rooted (or loose) ball joints. Manual steered fwd - maybe if the thing was under a 1.2litre but still.... And to condense it - check your nuts and get a wheel alignment :yes:

I don't know why it it has to to be FE2 shocks. Sports suspension (or the country pack) perhaps. Giving a firmer ride... But either way stock commodore wagon shocks have an extended height of 517mm, compressed height 307mm KE70 sedan - 564mm and 339mm

Commodore wagon VB - VS