Hiro Protagonist

http://s243.photobucket.com/user/paradox_king/library/AE102 Corolla wiring diagrams?sort=3&page=1

This. M/T = Manual Transmission, A/T = Automatic Transmission. You see stickers like that more often on ECUs (as some cars have different ECUs depending on whether they are manual or auto).

Leaving a few things aside until I get some time off over Easter, but did a trial fit of my genuine JDM Toyota weathershields the other weekend - still need to get the window frames painted black (and the power folding mirrors too) and some new 3M tape run but the preliminary results look nice and neat. These are the good ones too that actually have clips that go under the window seal as well as the double-sided tape so much less chance of them flying off at 100 on the freeway. Figured I should go back and update the original post with the current car state too

Are you referring to the EP71/EP82 Starlet GT? That's FWD with a completely different engine and transmission compared to what the OP was referring to (RWD and K-series)

Ahh, if you've got an AE9x then you'll have a Gen1 4AFE. The FWD engines also have different water circuits to the RWD ones so the Rollaclub guide isn't that relevant, also 4AGEs have different circuits to the FEs.

That picture shows a Gen2 4AFE as the injectors are not in the head, which is the same as a 7AFE. A '94 would most likely indicate that you have an AE101, none of the Aus-made AE10x had EGR. EDIT: Actually I change my mind, you can still see the bosses for the injectors and the fuel rail bolts plus the ports sit higher on the later heads, this looks like a 4AFC head (which obviously wouldn't need injector holes) or maybe an interim head from when both the 4AFC and 4AFE were sold The hole on the right doesn't look the right shape or bolt-pattern to what I'm used to but the location indicates it's the inlet for the water pump (well, the outlet from the head that goes to the inlet of the water pump)

Pretty much all small FWD Toyotas run a C-series transmission but the bellhousing pattern would likely be different between an NZ, E, A motor etc etc. The thing is that if you have a bellhousing adaptor then the original transmission fitment is basically irrelevant (unless the bellhousing pattern is the same for an NZ as it is for an A in which case you could use an off-the-shelf T50 housing or J160 or whatever adaptor etc etc) and a clutch to suit. And the 4AGE was north-south in the AE86 and AT141 before it was east-west in the AE82 :P

And for all the cardigan-wearers out there, the ultimate in car-mod minutiae - upgraded windscreen washer jets. We all know that the 90s jet-type Toyota washers suck - two piddly streams of water concentrated nowhere near where the wiper blade starts, so you're guaranteed a couple of screechy dry sweeps with the blade before they actually start cleaning anything. Enter the 5th generation Camry to the rescue! Toyota switched to a resonance-chamber fan spray with these models, and the results are night and day. Not only that, but they clip straight in with no modification required (there's enough slack in the stock hoses and 90 degree fittings to compensate for the different barb orientation, I've got some 4mm hose offcuts if I ever want to tidy it up) Upgrade yours today!

A two-part update, separated by ~3 weeks Part 1: My recently-installed fog lights decided to quit working just before Christmas (to be fair we don't have fog in summer anyway but I just like using them, even if it's illegal), figured that either the switch had gone bad (it was buzzing instead of switching them off even when they were working) or the globes had blown (could well be the originals from the 90s still in there). Had some time yesterday to investigate (the benefits of work shutting down over the break, 3-week holiday yay :D even if I had to burn 7 days of annual leave to get it), started with the switch and the relay but they all seemed fine, so figured the globes had gone - jacked up the front of the car to change them (and find out what size they are so I could get some cool yellow fog-breakers), only to find the shared ground wire for them had detached its solder and broken free Since it wasn't my solder job (and I have no idea whether I still have a soldering iron or where it might be), I drove over to my mate's house (the one who did the wiring) for a quick patch job. 15 minutes later and they were all fixed, plus I switched switches with him as his never buzzed (figure it's a tiny short in a contact inside). Then figured we'd swap over my old AE101 Levin seats for his spare AE111 Levin ones as my driver's side one had collapsed significantly and the bolster foam on the right thigh area had worn through to the rebar. The drive home was soooooo much more comfortable, even if I was sitting a little bit higher than normal and no longer had lumbar adjustment. Part 2: My birthday-present-to-myself arrived a little early, and even though it was stinking hot on Saturday (and I ended up with a bull-ant sting to the face because he crawled on to my sweat towel) I couldn't be bothered waiting for cooler weather to arrive. Now that I've got a USB input on my headunit (and I haven't needed cassettes since 2004) there wasn't much need for the double-din cubbyhole any more, and since I love collecting the JDM options it was a no-brainer Enter the Toyota Original Accessory Multi-Box and For Your Life Scene spring-loaded drawer (got to love Japlish...) Next weekend will hopefully be exhaust-fitting time and maybe a trial-fit of the 275mm SS twinpot brakes now that my ST204 pad carriers have arrived

80 seems high until you realise it's probably a 4.5" wide wheel...

Were the rear springs already sagging, hence there not being much difference when lowered ones were installed? I've known people to replace original springs with "stock height" ones and then complain about the 4WD ride height because they hadn't noticed the gradual sag over the years.

Got a mate who actually 3D-printed new horn-pad clips, seem to work well. He got my old ratty Twinky wheel that I had sitting around for ages, leather is completely gone though so that will get re-trimmed eventually.

None sold new here though, but there are a few private imports running around...

AE102 thankyouverymuch :P

Since there was a decent chance Charlene Mk2 was going to be the only AE10x in attendance to Toyotafest (turns out she wasn't, but technically the other one that turned up was Charlene Mk1 so I guess it still counts) I decided to cash in some favours with a mate who liked sparky work and get the FXGT fogs finally wired up (after 5+ years of sitting in the front bar all lonely and disconnected, I had finally gotten around to getting a Euro rear fog switch to go under the power mirror controls). At the same time I finally got around to installing the JDM clock back in to the dash, as well as the old VDO/JL speakers for a bit of a sound upgrade. And whilst I was on a bit of a roll, in went the ignition-barrel and footwell lights (got to love JDM factory options that plug-and-play into existing ports/wiring on the fuse box, they even time out properly like the dome light does) Since the fogs would require some wiring work around the front of the car, I also made the decision to re-fit the Hella grille. What looks to be a simple grille swap is actually not, due to the fact that the driver's side Hell intrudes on the A/C fan, and to remove the A/C fan (I chopped up the one on the old car and kept it to retrofit on to Mk2) requires the removal of the headlights, grille, bumper, bumper support, oil cooler, horn and bonnet catch, all for two screws and two rubber plugs. In the middle of disassembly End result 8 hours later (after we discovered and fixed the mixed-up wiring - fogs would come on with high-beams and the Hellas with the lows, the opposite of what they should) JL vs Toyota paper cone And after a quick wash the next morning, ready to get covered with bugs like every trip I make for a Toymods event (granted it didn't rain this time, which was a first) Still got to take some photos of the ignition and footwell lights, but you can only see them when they're dark

4AFE? Coolant leak around the dipstick area would lead me to believe it's either the water pump or the short stumpy hose that runs from the pump to the head - this is a common failure point on these engines. Stick a torch down behind the block and see if that hose is bulging or the hose clamps are missing

Doubt you'll get a 16V config in a V6 :P Methinks you're referring to the 3VZE 12V SOHC engine in the Hilux etc (FYI the only non-DOHC V6 Toyota have ever done) which is different to the DOHC 3VZFE in the Camry.

Check around the top of the windscreen and under the rubber for rust

Yep, plus it's oriented different too (the Gregorys manual shows the difference between the two). Hatch and sedan 100% share the same suspension, it's only body stuff like doors/bumper/interior and exhaust that is different between the two.

No difference at all from mid-'96 through to '99, the pre-facelifts ('94-early '96) do have slightly different mounting arrangements for the front lower control arms though. Also, suspension-wise the hatches are identical to the sedans too (and struts are the same across all years), so that should help broaden your search. Biggest difference is probably between 1.6L (AE101) and 1.8L (AE102) models, the 1.8L had disc rear ends whereas the 1.6L had drums. Front discs are slightly bigger on the 1.8 too. Try to keep an eye out for a 1.8L RV hatch, they got better interior compared to the non-sports models as well as slightly better suspension (factory stuff would most likely be shot by now though)

So the preparations for Toyotafest and the 50th Annniversary of the Corolla started a little late (considering the show is next weekend), but I'm not going to have time to get everything done that I'd ideally want to so decided to focus on the small quick wins that don't require too much hassle. Today was Short Shifter Day, which meant the whole lower dash had to come out (both front sills, glovebox, driver's side under-dash panel, both halves of the centre console, radio surround, storage cube, and the cig-lighter/ashtray/cupholder). Out with the old stock shifter, in with the new (well, from the old car) DIY short-shifter (pivot-ball moved as per TRD unit with height retained but throw length and angle both reduced, no cut-n-shut dodginess here) along with solid shifter cradle bushes and a couple of M8 washers to space the cradle up (the gear selector ball of the short shifter sits lower so it hits the tunnel unless the cradle is spaced up) Before Spacers installed Finished product (doesn't look shorter I know but that's kinda the point of the design) Since the dash was out I decided to install my JDM ignition barrel light and footwell lights too, no wiring required as they plug straight in to the same circuit as the dome light (each has a pass-through plug so you piggy-back them all together), although the ignition barrel light ring is a pain to install (you basically have to bend the dash away from the barrel in order to slip the ring in due to the LED housing on one side). When I get a chance I'll stick the footwell lights up somewhere solid (they're just wedged in place at the moment) but it'll do for now. By some minor miracle I managed to get everything back together without breaking anything (except a crack in the inside of the dash from bending it out around the ignition) nor did I have any leftover screws (which I believe is actually a first for me). Whilst all this was happening I was dodging one hell of a thunderstorm, was working in the driveway since the garage was packed with gear from the storage shed but a sudden heavy downpour and clouds that threatened hail made me scramble to clear out enough space to edge the car inside......which meant I had almost no room to open the doors to work in the footwells, so I ended up just reversing back out in to the driveway whenever the rain calmed down. Over the next few days I'll probably tackle the front speakers and tweeters, as well as maybe the JDM Clean Ace air purifier and Clean Box rubbish bin installs, and if I'm _really_ keen I'll take the front bar off and swap the air-con fans over so I can install the Hella driving-light grille (I've got a spare fan with a chunk cut out of the shroud to clear the back of the driver's side driving light).

http://www.toyotafest.org.au/ Toymods car club is proud to present TOYOTA FEST #13 - 2016 All Toyota Car Show After last years success of Toyotafest at Castle Hill Toyota, they have invited us back again for 2016!!! CASTLE HILL TOYOTA 2 Victoria Ave, CASTLE HILL Rear Carpark (undercover) Sunday, 2nd October 2016 Long Weekend don't FORGET DAYLIGHT SAVINGS! Castle Hill Toyota have offered the use of their rear dealership carpark again for this years event, after the success of last year, this allows the show to be 90% undercover if it rains, so there are no excuses for not attending! So how do you enter...? To be eligible to enter, the vehicle must be Toyota bodied, but any engine and driveline combination is welcome. You DO NOT have to be a member of the Toymods Car Club to enter and we encourage other Toyota clubs to present club displays. $20 Entry per Vehicle. Spectators/passengers are FREE!!! All the details of the show are available here http://www.toyotafest.org.au/ This year we also have a limited print Toyotafest #13 T-shirt Available for purchase with entrant registration Trophy classes and eligibility... • Historic Original - Best / most original vehicle pre 1985 • Modern Original - Best / most original model vehicle available between 1986-2005 • Best Commercial - Best over all mini truck, ute, van, etc... • Best Engineered - car best engineered for it’s purpose • Best Late Model - Best late model vehicle post 2006 • Street Sleeper - Most deceptively high performance car • Top Engine Bay - Best presented engine bay • Best Paint & Panel - Best finish and workmanship • Best Interior - Best finish and workmanship • Nathan Dean Memorial Trophy - Best Classic Celica 1971-1977 • Entrants Choice - Best overall chosen by other entrants • Best of Show - Highest overall scoring vehicle Please note trophy categories are subject to change closer to event date Entrants are encouraged to arrive from 7.30am with last entrants being accepted into the display at 8.55am for a 9am start. Trophy presentation and raffle will start around 2.30pm. The display will close at 3.00pm with ALL cars remaining until then. In the interest of public safety NO vehicle may be moved or started during the display... NO EXCEPTIONS! Vehicles being trailered will need to be escorted into the venue for unloading prior to 8am if the vehicle is not mobile. Again, Toymods, is organising a few 'side' events for the interstate enthusiasts. So to make their trip worthwhile, we will be having a drag night at WSID as well as the standard dinner and social chat after the Show! More events may come on line so keep a wary eye out for announcements. ToyotaFest Dinner: Sunday Oct 2nd (after ToyotaFest) - locations / Time to be confirmed ToyotaFest Drag Night: Wednesday Oct 5th - Location / Time to be confirmed If you are on Facebook, get onto the Toymods Facebook Page and register your attendance at the event to keep up with all the news as it happens.

Looks like you do exactly as you said and tighten it via a pry bar and that top slot. Later 4AFE and 7AFE alternators have an adjustable bottom bolt via a tapped block and jacking screw Do you have a picture of the alternator itself?

AE92s definitely still had a mechanical speedo cable (at least on the 4AGE models) so probably is the 101/102s. They didn't start having digital odo/trips until the ZZE series though