Hiro Protagonist

You won't find a normal RA28 for sale for $30k though (not even a genuine GT), and you can't use the price of a genuine RA25 GT (in any condition) as an indicator for A2x Celicas in general. Yes A2x Celicas are getting more expensive for neat rust-free examples, but they're still in the $10k range. Same goes for the TA22 and RA23 which don't attract the Mustang name (if anything they more resemble a Camaro) $30k for that RA25 is way less of a stretch than someone wanting $10k for a rusty AE86, and you see those all the time now...

That's an RA25 (and a GT at that), not an RA28. Biiiiiiiiig difference. Likening it back to the Mustang, the normal RA28 LT sold here is the 3.3L Thriftpower straight 6 base model, the RA25 GT is a Boss 302 or GT350 (and relative values to suit) Also, it'll struggle to find a buyer at that price. Genuine RA25s are extremely rare in Australia (much more so than RA28s, you can probably count the number on two hands). RA25 GTs are even rarer, I know for certain of only 2 in the country (the white one, which was a personal import, and River's samurai red/bronze one which was the car Toyota brought in for evaluation to see if they would sell the GT in Aus - they didn't, and the rest is history).

Boradcast deals are often a lot more complicated than people think. Delayed highlights and non-compete clauses are quite common and comes down to the conditions of the contract. If you think it's bad take a look at the NFL broadcasts in the US - if a game doesn't sell out then it doesn't get broadcast in the home team's market. Teams will actually block off sections of the grandstands to reduce capacity to make sure that games sell out.

Low-comp pistons but everything else is the same as the equivalent year 4AGE

http://thekneeslider.com/ducati-v-one-twin-to-supercharged-single-conversion/

Current trends for small/medium hatchbacks often has the front seats very high and upright for max visibility and leg-room in as small a space as possible - this means the shifter usually has to get raised up from the centre console so it is within easy reach Since auto shifters are not physically connected to the transmission there's no problem with putting the shifter wherever

Quite a few Soarer guys still run stock CT12As, steel-wheeled and high-flowed (as you should because the ceramics crap themselves eventually) you can get 300rwkw and 12-second passes @~16psi, which is pretty damn good for a 1.6-1.7T luxury cruiser. Mine has ~200rwkw @11psi and pulls like a train all the way through from 3000 to 7000rpm, hardly restrictive up top. Yes, you're probably getting towards its limits capacity-wise, but unless you're tweaking a K-motor to within an inch of its life then it will be more than satisfactory (and they are cheap and easy to find from the people who do end up doing big-single conversions for dyno-queens)

CT12As are specced to run half of a 1JZ, so that should be fine for a 1.3L 4K (2.5L/2)

You need to see this from our side though - without fail, every school holidays (and even other times of the year) we get plenty of pipe-dreamers and P-platers come through with more money than forethought/research and want everything to be spelled out for their conversion (which almost never ends up happening because reality sets in). They tend to also dislike criticism (even when it is constructive) and will often ignore sage advice when given to them because it doesn't agree with their opinion. As such, we tend to get a bit pessimistic and dismissive when someone comes along with grand plans but little in the way of ability to back it up. Altezzaclub is right in that if you want to get this done, you need professional help (and lots of it, along with money), not internet forums. If you want to do it yourself but don't have the skills, start small and learn your way around things before jumping in the deep end. Above all else, commit to what you plan to do or don't start it at all, otherwise you end up with an unfinished money-pit that you'll never be happy with.

If you don't have fabrication skills then you're going to be throwing bucket-loads of money at a workshop/fabricator. Pick up the phone and/or go talk to real people with real jobs about your options, this is no backyard job for someone without skills...

Yes

Unless it's an early GZE or a silvertop 20V, it'll have a MAP sensor not an AFM

Equivalent here would be a KE35 since it's the hardtop rather than the 2-door sedan, but the Seppos mostly had T-series engines instead of K-series so that makes it a TE37

TE37 actually :P

Might help if you say where you are from... Still, stupid and almost 100% definitely highly illegal. If you're in NSW then technically you don't even own the plates (except for certain personalised styles), you're essentially renting them from the RTA/RMS and you wouldn't re-spray a rental car would you?

Hit 200 in the 102 many moons ago, "private road" of course and definitely not something I would condone now.

I'll be watching mine like a hawk in about 5000km time...

If your AE82 isn't a Twincam, get Twincam seats, they're heaps better than the standard ones (and bolt right in obviously)

And we appreciate the time and effort you guys put in to rolling up as a group. Makes our job as gate-runners that much easier

3 days to go now, if you haven't started polishing your pride and joy now is as good as time as any to start (and the weather is playing nice for a change too) Just a reminder, once the show has started no cars can be moved due to our insurance coverage, so why not make a day of it? And for those who treasure their sleep, don't forget to wind your clocks forward an hour before you go to bed, daylight savings and Toyotafest are an annual tradition.

Less than 2 weeks to go now, in true Toyotafest tradition I'm sure most of you will be leaving things to the last minute with many sleepless nights on the cards ahead. As a friendly but important reminder for all entrants, please be aware that if you intend on entering your car into the show this year, once you are parked and the show has started (9am) we cannot permit you to move your car until the show ends at 3pm. This is purely for insurance purposes - we are insured for a STATIC car display / show. If you feel you may not be able to stay for the whole day, it doesn't mean you can't attend the show, you just won't be able to enter your car. There is plenty of parking outside the show area where spectators can come and go as they please.

It's the SX wheel (ST ones are vinyl, thinner, slightly different shape and just say CELICA from memory), but probably 80% of ST162s are SXs anyway so they shouldn't be hard to find

Both AE92 and AE82 4AGE gearboxes are C52s, the boxes themselves should be completely swappable (not sure about CVs/axles though).

There are several different sticker combinations for the Twinkies, ranging from full length (S1 and early? S2 hatches) to front-door only (later S2 hatches and S3?), to small rear quarter panel (S1 Secas) and small rear door only (S2/S3 Secas). The ones in the Carsales ad look like the front-door-only ones from a later S2 hatch, just put on the rear doors instead - and you see a few going around without stickers at all, either due to re-spray or because they were removed at time of purchase (technically optional from what I've been lead to believe). Here's a (bad) photo of the front-door-only stickers on an S2 hatch