Hiro Protagonist

AE101/2s still ran analogue odometer/tripmeters

I don't think any of the 16V 4AGEs have a PCV valve, just the breather line (which despite going to the intake manifold is actually cross-drilled through to before the throttle plate, so it never sees vacuum)

So picked these up for a steal last weekend, for those not in the know the top-spec AE101 Levins/Truenos came with a Superstrut suspension option and twin-pot 275mm front discs, which are a sizeable improvement over the factory non-superstrut 255mm single-pots. A common upgrade for AE92s in the past, common practice required the discs to be turned down to ~260mm through as the caliper mounting points on the MacPherson struts were closer in to the hub compared to the Superstrut. In my mind the whole point of buying big brakes is to have big brakes, so going back down to a disc only 5mm bigger than factory seemed like a backwards step. Fortunately, other trailblazers out there have found out that you can the pad-carriers from the big-brake ST20x Celicas with a tiny bit of grinding for clearance, so I'm currently hunting down a set of ST204 front pad carriers (fortunately Toyota Aus spec'd the big front single-pots for the ADM models, otherwise I'd be trying to find an SSII/III 3SGE ST202 import with the big brakes but WITHOUT Superstrut). Should be looking at getting the exhaust fitted soon too, just need to go over the joins to make sure the welds are still good (it's 10 years old now) and get a fresh set of gaskets front to rear.

KE55s came with Trimatics too

Just an aside, I assume you're not in Australia? We didn't get the 1ZZ until the E12x series at the end of 2001, unless it's a conversion

Easy-as, shouldn't be much more than unplugging the fan, removing the radiator hoses and draining the coolant, then undoing the top mount bolts and pulling the whole thing straight out (then swap the fan over to the new one and reverse the procedure). Only thing that might complicate matters is if you have an auto, in which case there is a trans cooler in the bottom tank that you will also need to disconnect the lines for (and plug quickly so you don't drain all your ATF, remember also to top it up afterwards).

And ideally fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, rip the dash apart to get the ECU and loom etc etc

You mean Townace. Spacia had the 3SFE

I have a spare AE102 cluster and speed sensor... AE10x speedos are pretty big though, from memory much bigger than the KE30/55

Bolt-up yes. Plug-in no.

There's very little if anything off-the-shelf out there, best bet would be to ring some cam re-grinders and see if they can offer something.

Anyone know what this big long metal tube thingy is called? I undid a couple of random bolts under the car and it fell off...

The MAP sensor you need should be 89421-12030

Correct, but helps to put things in perspective considering all the fuss which is suddenly being made of this engine again for some reason.

And the car only lasted 6 laps too...

Stock or aftermarket wheels?

CVs tend to make clicking/knocking noises rather than grinding, does it make the noise when you are stationary too? (if so it could be the power steering pump)

Nah Brad from Twincam, he had a JZ-converted Cressie at one stage but can't remember if it was manual or not

Is that Brad's old one?

We were running a Haltech E6X

Ha, I remember using a GT101DC on my aborted attempt to design a traction control unit for the Formula SAE car...

So, over the last few weeks I've been removing bits and pieces mainly from the interior so it could still be driven if necessary, but since the rego has now lapsed and Toyota Nationals is fast approaching I decided it was time to get started on the big stuff. First up was the wheels - still needed rubber between the suspension and the ground so acquired a set of AE82 Twinky S2 wheels for free.....some things from the 80s should stay in the 80s. Had some "fun" getting one of the hub-centric rings off (had to resort to the old boiling-water trick after attempts with a flat-blade screwdriver had turned it into a porcupine instead of a ring). Also, by some miracle one of the tyres had a screw embedded flush in one of the tread blocks but was still holding air some 3 months after it was last driven Then came the front end - lights, Hella grille and FX bumper. Haven't seen the front end this exposed in a _looooong_ time. Figured once the front bar was off I'd might as well get the intake off too, which meant pulling the TRD 3-point strut brace as well. Next up will be cam cover and probably the front half of the exhaust, followed by the suspension which will mark the start of installing on Mark II (since I don't have a spare set of struts around and can't afford to have Mark I sitting on blocks in the driveway).

The issue you'll have is that K-series boxes have integral bellhousings - ie you can't swap bellhousings to suit the motor you want, a 4K K40 won't have the same pattern as a 3A K50.

http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor Any internal engine mods (cams, pistons etc) will be impossible for someone to pick up and ping you for on your P's, hell even an aftermarket carby looks stock when you keep a standard-looking air filter housing on top of it.

AE85 had a K50 behind a 3A...