Felix

Yea my splash plates rubbed when I first installed the ke30 discs. I just bent them slightly like Cam stated.

Crane Cams - Measuring lifter preload

Ah it was your pic I borrowed. :) I'm not sure about lumpy, hard to really see, but it certainly has some lift. I'd advise you check your lifter preload like philbey described in a previous post in this thread, and put the results up here. From there we can work out if you need to correct anything.

Maybe, but I'd say that would be a rarity unless the cam was a new billet (or hard welded) and not a regrind. Look at the following reground cam compared to a stock one. Note the massive reduction in the base circle to gain additional lift. The lifter would drop down the block a fair bit reducing preload, needing the base of the rocker pedestals to be shaved. Obviously a shaved head would help close the gap, but I don't think anyone is going to be shaving a head by that much.

I can't remember the CC volume as the motor was put together 6 years or so ago. It ended up around 9.6:1 as I set it up for 95 octane. As for shimming up rocker pedestals... Why? Normally when you regrind a cam the base circle is reduced to get extra lift, so if anything you need to shave the base of the rocker pedestals to regain lifter preload.

Corflute. :yes: Good shit, go steal a real estate sign.

The motor is a D-dished 5k with the std head (knobby bits under 1 and 4 plugs), shaved and ported. The lifters have had the circlips removed, the guts emptied out and the pushrod cups dropped back down into the base of the lifters. Very simple and easy. The main reason was to run the solid cam from my prior 4k.

I do have solids in my 5k, but they didn't cost me a single cent. :cool: Gutted 5k hydraulics with 3k pushrods and 4k rocker gear. Done about 60 thousand kays without an issue. Makes me laugh when not so smart people spend up for a solid lifter conversion. I wouldn't bother if it actually cost money... it is a K series after all, the simplest of the simplest of motors.

So you did. I didn't notice that. Interestingly BMW were way ahead of both of us, my '87 model E32 has a grommet around the brake hoses that unclips from a bracket on the struts.

Yea, it is just crap. They should have had an impromptu demo derby or something... would have been more entertaining.

Good write up. :y: One thing I do is cut a slot in the bracket thing that holds the brake hoses to the strut. Then you can bend it open slide out the hoses and not have to worry about cracking open the brake lines and having to bleed the brakes.

Definitely. Nothing like some classy German heavy iron... They do cars way better than the Japs ever could. The Germans are true innovators, the Japanese imitators.

Superman with balls of steel.

16-17cc is pretty much normal for a dished piston head (with the lugs). It is fine. Use it.

Could do. I'd be experimenting with upping the primary main jet size a little.

Sounds like it could be running a bit lean. No air leaks at all?

Maybe try a masthead amplifier. Makes a massive difference where we live surrounded by hills.

The Bosch style internal reg alternators use different mounts that bolt to the block. The front wiring harness for charge, indicators and main power lead is pretty easy to pull out.

Yep, but you should run a non-resistor coil (if you haven't already).

Ballast resistor drops voltage to coil when running to preserve points. At startup the resistor is bypassed so coil receives full battery voltage.

Good, hopefully he can help you out. I fixed the voltage figures in my previous post.

No sorry the setup I had was sold a few years ago. Think ScottKE1x bought it. Maybe drop him a PM.

No worries. Sounds like a good plan. Something you may find of interest from a bit of a quick test with one of those spark tester tools at idle: 5k electronic dizzy with Bosch black transistor coil. 30,000 volts. 4k Scorcher Bosch recurved dizzy with Jaycar HEI kit and Echlin GX80 coil. 25,000 volts.

Why don't you run one of those black transistor coils for higher voltage? That is what I had before I sold off my 5k electronic dizzy and coil that was on the ke16. The 5k leccy dizzys advance curve isn't the best, unless you get it recurved. Car went much better afterwards with a points dizzy. I've had one of those GT40 can style coils burn out before after a couple of years. It was a resistor type, running a resistor... not a fan. The Echlin GX80's are better in my experience.

Solid lifter 4k and 5k dished with lugs should be 180mm overall, as the heads are 6mm shorter than the normal ones. 5k flattop (no lugs) with factory solids would be the same as flattop 4k's at 186mm. K, I've got some around here but no idea where they are after our recent move. I'll keep an eye out.