Felix

LOL, philbey you work at an even slower pace than I do. It is always good to have spare cars. Good to hear you got it sorted. :hmm:

Umm, you are trying to make it look like a 4wd with the black paint along the bottom of the car? LOL, no you are giving it the ke10 treatment. Deleted c-pillar vents, earlier front clear blinkers, taillights, and bootlid.

LOL. The internet.... one of the greatest forms of misinformation, ever. But then again it is good, problem is sorting through all the crap. How's it going anyway Cam, get it all sorted? You should just do the quick and dirty solid lifter conversion like I did, costs sfa. Mine did 4 years of daily driving without an issue and cost me nothing. :wink: You could always consider gutting (and dropping the pushrod cup to the base) Holden red motor hydraulic lifters with either the shorter 3k pushrods or better still k pushrods.

I like that paper method. :wink: I've used the grease method quite a few times, but the wet paper would be so much less messy and easier to clean up.

You can use premium. No you don't need to use additives in your fuel.

Depends what I'm into at the time. My hobbies (Vintage RC cars, RC planes and RC helis), cars if I'm in the mood or one needs something fixed, though not as much as when I was younger (cars are more just transportation to me these days), and hanging out with the missus and kids. Lately it has been working on my E32, and also tidying up and packing shit for the move into our new house in a few weeks. Oh yea, also been addicted to This Game lately.

Just like Rob said. An earlier carb will work. Just may not be jetted perfectly. Personally I liked the ke30 3k carbs out of all the factory carbs. Minimal emissions crap and you can still easily buy needle and seats unlike the even earlier carbs before them.

Quality control on new stuff these days. Bought an upright aircompressor the other day, bought it home assembled it, plugged it in and it would not hold any more than 60psi as air was pissing out the metal manifold thing the taps/guages/fittings run off. :laff: Took it back the next day 45mins each way (live in the country) and exchanged it mainly as I like the upright design to save space in my shed.... Then new one has a pinhole in one of the tank welds. ;) Anyway it is not bad, can live with it for awhile, has a years warranty so I've got plenty of time to take it back if I want, for now it works. Gotta love air tools. :wink: Man I've been missing out for so many years, it is so cool having an air ratchet and rattle gun. Makes life so so much easier.

Did you reface the lifters when you put in your new cam? Usually if the lifters aren't spinning the cam has lost its taper on the lobes from wear or not being run in properly. The long nosed plugs are bcpr527y-11 or bcpe527y-11 from memory. No there really isn't any variety of heat range available in that style of plug.

You should be avoiding driving up hills for a bit. It is going to run hotter than normal when it is has just been rebuilt.

If you want to get the most out of your 5k, put it in a ke1x. You'd need to make 25-30% more power and torque in a ke70 to match the performance of a milder motor in a ke1x. ie. spend 2x the money or more for the same performance.

In David Vizards books he claims you should have 2-2.2 CFM per HP. A DCD with 26/27mm venturis flows around 220 CFM. The venturis you have will be ok, though you would find improved low-mid throttle response with a smaller primary venturi. Obviously it would work way better than a 32/36 DGV (32mm primary throttle plate), with the DCD's 28mm primary throttle plate. The 26/27mm venturis came standard in the DCD's fitted on mk1 1500gt cortinas. They had a 1500cc non-xflow pushrod motor, with a 270 degree cam and extractors. Perfect for a warm 5k. My original DCD came from a Fiat 1500, it had 25/25 mm venturis in it, and was fitted to a 4k with 270 degree cam, mild headwork, 9.8:1 CR and 4-1 extractors/exhaust. I later tried the 26/27mm venturis but found throttle response to be a bit soggier on the primary. I went back to the 25mm primary, but left the 27mm secondary for a bit more topend. I believe a 24mm primary would be the sweet spot on a 4k with a decent amount of work done to it. Imp website gives a little insite into DCD tuning and compares the DCD to twin Strombergs (very similar to SU's). Neil Lenton on Weber 28/36 vs. twin Strombergs (the paper filter and diaphram comments would not apply to SU's): * A Weber 28/36 never needs mixture adjustment * A Weber never needs re-balancing (as Strombergs regularly do). Re-balancing is an awkward job on an Imp * A Weber does not have diaphragms that may split or o-rings that might leak * A Weber takes up half the space, so it's much easier to get at and work on * Its throttle and choke linkage is less complicated * Throttle response It can be very economical when driven on primary choke. When floored, the second choke also operates and gives extremely good acceleration. Twin Strombergs operate best on light throttle and tend to feel flat when floored. * Air filters are cheaper. Paper elements are vital on an Imp. An early Mini 850 air box can be adapted to fit the Weber. (T.J. filter B.94)

The rule of 9 is pretty much how I do it. If the exhaust valve on cyl 4 (valve 8) is fully open, then you know for sure that the exhaust valve on cyl 1 (valve 1) will be in the middle of the base circle of the cam, and nowhere near the opening ramps. Tighter valve clearances give you more cam, looser less cam.

Landfill.

Would have been easier to just change the bushes that sit between the carbs and float bowls (that set the bowl angle) to ones with a 30 degree angle.

My original DCD weber was previously fitted to a Mazda 1300. Think the throttle wheel is a modded item from a stock Mazda 1300 carb. I moved the cable from the heater tap (which was removed from the car before I got it) to the choke linkage on the DCD.

Well if you plan to supercharge it then I wouldn't worry to much about the twin sidedrafts or uprighting the motor. Uprighting is all about having a straighter intake path for a full bore NA motor, or as some people do, for more room on the manifold side for a turbo. Seeing as you are going the supercharged route, most people mount them on the dizzy side of the motor on a modded air con bracket. Would be way easier to mod a single downdraft weber to take boost, than a set of sidedrafts.

I think you need a fairly worked 5k to actually make use of your 2" system.

so what is under the bonnet so far? motor? what car?

Adding extractors and an exhaust make a motor run leaner. Has the motor got any other mods? A 2" system is to big for a standard 4k.

Is it a saturday night special/weekend racer or a daily driver? If it is a daily you'd be better of with an appropriately sized downdraft weber.

You are going to notice front brake fade way before the rears. Front brakes do about 70% of the braking effort.

Straighter better flowing intake manifold.

Always pays to boil a suspect thermostat in a pot of water with a thermometer to check it opens properly. Also cutting the centre out of a thermostat (ie. only the moving piston part) , and temporarily reinstalling is a good way to rule out thermostat problems. Keep the main body part for the flow restriction to slow down the water flow.

Welsch plugs? You using an early 4afe head?