Felix

Yep it was one of the slides on the front left caliper which was sticking. Cleaned up the slides and the caliper moves smoothly now. The pedal now has the nice solid feel I remembered, and no longer feels springy. Also the left brake is no longer dragging from the cocked caliper. The left front wheel was a bitch to get off. Mazda steelies. I've previously filed out the centre hole a bit, but obviously not enough. Needed some of RP7 and a good whacking with a big rubber mallet. Couldn't be stuffed trying to find the grinding bit for my drill, so just greased up the centre hole when I bolted the wheel back on. Fingers crossed it won't be as stubborn the next time it comes off. Might go back up and see if I can get my air/fuel ratio meter working again.

There are a lot of things that determine where the power range will be with a given cam. Extractors: 4-2-1's will give more low-midrange, 4-1's will give more mid-topend. Port size: Smaller ports give more low-midrange. Bigger ports more mid-topend. Induction: A smaller carb will have higher airspeed through the venturis at lower revs, giving better atomisation and more torque/throttle response, it will also run out of flow sooner limiting the topend. Likewise a bigger carb will be flatter in the lowend and give more up top. Keep in mind to big just kills drivability and economy in normal everyday driving. Engine capacity: A larger capacity motor will come on cam sooner and run out of cam sooner. A smaller capacity motor will need more revs to come on cam, and will make peak power further up the rev range. I have a cam with 423 thou lift in a late 4k with no issues with coil bind running factory springs. The springs have also been shimmed to increase the seat pressure and allow more revs before valvefloat. An early 3k bigport (with its overhead o-ring type valvestem sealing arrangement) may not take as much lift as a later head as there is less distance between the underside of the spring retainer and the top of the valve guide.

Go for it. :D Will go great in your warm 4k. Should give you a strong midrange to topend. I found with my old 4k with a tighe 113 (same advertised cam timing, but with a bit less lift than yours) it went hard from 3000-7500 with a similar setup. I ran just under 10:1 CR with 4-1's, some headwork, shimmed valvesprings and a 28/36 DCD.

Evan, I hope you are going to put a reground cam in it. Go a Tighe 112. Will wake up an otherwise stock 4k. :D

Yea I pretty much agree with that about the 4k's.... except for the dished piston variations which scream compared to the hohum flat top piston versions. I've had a couple of dished 4k's and quite a few flattop 4k's over the years and there is no comparison between the two.

My bad, though you do see a lot of references to the 2EFE if you do a google search... Most likely to differentiate between the carb and efi versions.

The biggest thing holding back a stock motor is the stock camshaft timing.

Dynoed it to find the correct needles?

You may need to do tunnel mods in a ke15/17 with an upright kit. Just fitting a ke70 gearbox needs some tunnel massaging with a hammer. Fitting a box at an angle would need more work.

I just blip the throttle on downchanges to revmatch, especially when the car is cold. I generally drive barefooted in my ke15, allows me to big toe/little toe easier. No need to double clutch, unless you have a car with no synchros. My old EH Holden had a 3 speed crashbox with non-syncho first. You had to either come to a complete stop to put it back into first, or double clutch it.

13bpp... quiet. :P

Maybe he is talking about the 2efe and 4efe motors?

Yea that's how I have an aftermarket one hooked up in my ke15.

Yep, think it just needs the AS1698 sticker on it.

Still not right, but it did run better. Took it over my parents place today, 3/4's of an hour each way. The temp is stabilising, didn't go any higher than the first mark at about a 1/3 on the gauge. I will give it another radiator flush. I do need to lip the rear guard on the passenger side as I am getting some scrubbing over big bumps with the 3 kids in the back. They must of put on 15kg's each since the last time they all rode in the back. Might see if I can pick up a bit of pipe from the local scrap metal joint tomorrow and roll the guard out a little. It isn't cutting in fortunately, just scuffing/polishing the corner of the tread. I rejetted the DCD weber this arv with the jets from my old one. Have only been running the stock factory jetting the last one came with for a MK1` 1500GT cortina. Need to redo the wires from the O2 sensor (under the car) to the Air/Fuel meter as I ripped them out at one stage in the past along a bit of a 4wd track on a branch. Once I get the A/F meter up and running again I can jet it up perfectly as it makes it so easy and quick to sort a carb as you can see exactly what it is doing. One thing I need to have a look at is the front left caliper. I suspect the slide is sticking as it pulls to the right under hard braking.

I'm interested in going out there for a run shortly. Drop me a line next time you guys go out.

Nice work with the heater core Cam. Yea you get a lot of interested looks with the old sprinters. Nobody really knows what they are, or that the model even existed. I'm keen to also take my ke15 out to Willowbank, but not sure if I could make it this week... Have to sort out my headlights as only the drivers side works on high beam for some reason, think it is the indicator switch.

Gave the ke15 a quick tune this arv. The point gap was real small, so opened it to 0.5mm and retimed it to 12 degs btdc. Can't remember the last time I readjusted the pointgap and reset the timing. The points would have to be 5-6 years (or more) old... The contact area doesn't wear at all with the Silicon Chip (DSE) HEI kit, just a bit of rubbing block wear. Haven't driven it on the road yet as I'd had a few beers, but around the backyard it has way more throttle response. Idle along in first and blip the throttle and the thing wheelspins like mad. It is like it is free revving in neutral. In second once you have 15kays on the clock the same thing happens. Before it had a hesitation when the secondary opened. Be interesting to see how it goes tomorrow.

Nothing wrong with ACL Monotorque head gaskets. I'd steer away from the cheaper Ezi-Fit ones though. I also run the earlier headbolts on my late 4k and 5k.

Have a look to see if is turned on: Tools>Options>Advanced>General Tab>Under the Browsing heading, ensure "check my spelling as I type" is ticked. Now make a message reply. In the reply window right click on your message reply, go to Languages and then select "Add Dictionaries". From there you can download and install the English (Australian) Dictionary. Firefox will restart reopening all your windows. Finally to check it is all working, right click in a message window. You should see a tick beside Check Spelling and if you run your cursor over Languages you should see a tick next to English / Australia. Done :yes:

Hey Trev if you aren't using the Australian dictionary in Firefox, right click on your message reply, go to Languages and then select "Add Dictionaries". From there you can download and install the English (Australian) Dictionary and set it as default. When I see posts where people don't make the effort forming their question, I generally don't make an effort to reply. I realise nobody is perfect, but there is a difference between a few spelling mistakes and someone not giving a f@$k.

Hey parrot, I was told at one stage, that the ke15 windscreens are the same as the ke10 ones, just laid back more. I'm not sure if that is correct or not as I haven't physically attempted to fit a ke10 windscreen into a ke15 myself. Guess it would be worth doing some measuring.

That bike is a beast. You will find that the jaycar kit can use a map sensor if you do a little research.

Listen to Taz. 3k bigports have the casting number prefix 24010 - xxx k bigports have the casting number prefix 22010- xxx All later heads seem to have random numbers cast on them. The 3k bigport heads were standard on late ke1x through the ke2x series. Then actual endpoint/changover to the small ports I'm not exactly sure of.

Hey Cam, Yea the old girl has come a fair way since you saw it a few weeks back. I think seeing your '15 is what has motivated me. :) I'll have a look around for another rear muffler mount like what is on it. If I can't find one I'll look into a rubber strap like you are talking about. The ke16 has a rubber strap on it, looks like multi-ply conveyor belt rubber or something similar. Cheers, Doug